need HELP! metal coolant pipe has rusted...

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Feb 10, 2010 | 11:02 AM

#16

leethedeuce

Thread Starter

Junior Member

Joined: Jul 2008

Posts: 87

Likes: 0

From: WI

Year: 1996

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0L

Hi,
Like I said mine ended up just being the upper rubber house once I got down and dirty. But a lot of good information.
Thanks again everyone,
Lee

Feb 10, 2010 | 12:02 PM

#17

sandstone

Member

Joined: Aug 2008

Posts: 140

Likes: 0

From: Altoona, PA

Year: 1999

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5-90

just get a 3/8" brass pipe nipple, cut the threads off of one end and debur, and call it good. In that environment, brass will last about six times as long as steel will

The OEMs don't use brass because steel is cheaper. They should use brass because it lasts longer. Go figure.

Great advice. I've noticed these pipes getting rustier on my '96 and '99 cherokees and will replace them with a 3/8" brass pipe nipple cut as you specified when the originals rust through or when I suspect trouble.

Feb 10, 2010 | 12:10 PM

#18

superj

CF Veteran

Joined: Feb 2010

Posts: 2,004

Likes: 40

From: corpus christi, texas

Year: 1999

Model: Cherokee (XJ)

Engine: 4.0 I6

and you know the oem isn't in it for a dependable long life vehicle. they want you to come back and see them in three to five years so they make em to only last as long as the warranty

Feb 10, 2010 | 10:51 PM

#19

5-90

CF Veteran

Joined: May 2008

Posts: 3,018

Likes: 23

Year: 1988

Model: Cherokee

Engine: AMC242

Quote:

Originally Posted by superj

and you know the oem isn't in it for a dependable long life vehicle. they want you to come back and see them in three to five years so they make em to only last as long as the warranty

I know - which is why I suggest replacing so many bits with better materials.

Exhaust hardware - bronze or brass.
Coolant fittings - brass.
Cooling system fasteners - brass or CRES
Undercar fasteners - CRES where possible (CRES is roughly equivalent to about an SAE6/7, usually, or ISO PC9.8-10.9)
Most Cotter keys go away in favour of mechanic's pins (in CRES wire.)

You get the idea. I redesign things with the guiding thought being: "The next poor bastid to work on this is going to be me, and all I'll have for tools will be my Swiss Army knife, my Gerber 600DET, and a hammer - not my favourite hammer. Plan accordingly."