A metal coolant pipe on front of engine has rusted and is leaking, it is the only place i see anything coming from, it is on the front of the engine and looks like it comes out of the top of the water pump or something and possibly runs to the heater core but right after it kind of bends around the engine, it connects to a rubber hose that goes towards back of engine. My uncle who is a mechanic suggested I just hacksaw it off and put on a longer hose. Also will autozone know what size of hose it is or does anyone else know? As I was going to get the stuff to fix it first.
Thanks,
Lee
Edit: Also its a 1996 Jeep cherokee 160k miles. Would really appreciate some helpful input.
Thanks.

 

That pipe can be replaced.. It's the water bypass tube. You just have to remove the waterpump and then swap in a new one.

 

I am having trouble locating that part I have tried on rockauto and such. Thanks for the help maybe ill quick fix it like this and just have it done when I do the water pump.
Thank you,
Lee

 

are you sure it wont come with the new water pump. either way it should be a fairly common part to find.
water bypass or coolant bypass is generally the terms used

 

this is from NAPA
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=430&CatId=5&SubCatId=4
they dont sell that pipe though. Go hit a junk yard.

 

try your local dealer it like a $15 dollar part.

 

http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/par...ing/more2.html

scroll and you will see the water pump bypass tube it's like $14...

 

Don't bother with the dealer, you'll get the same sheet steel part.

Go to the hardware store, get a 3/8" brass pipe nipple a few inches long, and cut off one threaded end. Screw the other end into the water pump housing, smear a little RTV over the outside last inch or so of the nipple, and slip the hose back on and clamp it. You've just eliminated a rust problem.

NB: After you've cut the threaded bit off (all you really need to cut off is the threaded bit - leave the rest,) take a file and make sure there aren't any burrs on the outside that can (and usually do) chew through the hose.

 

I bought a water pump, and it didn't come with what you are talking about, I had to use my old one. I think its dumb the water pumps don't have it built in. But it will screw right in. I suggest jy.

 

Junkyard parts? Same problem - but they're not only mild steel (and badly plated,) but you don't know how long the junkyard part is going to last.

Seriously - just get the 3/8" brass pipe nipple, cut the threads off, and install that. You'll never have to worry about it again! It's my standard fix whenever I replace a water pump on pretty much anything (considering most domestic pumps have a 3/8"NPT bypass port...)

 

Don't mean to bump this old of a thread but just figured that I hate reading threads and never seeing if anything was ever fixed. It wasn't the metal pipe. The pipe is rusted and the black paint coating flaked off some. There was a very small hole/crack in the upper radiator hose that I noticed when starting the repair. Changed upper hose. been great ever since.
Thanks,
Lee

 

The part is available for future reference to others from Chrysler Jeep Dealership.

Heater pump bypass tube part #53007978 $22.00

also make sure you get the oring (additional part) that goes into the water pump and use RTV to seal the tube into the water pump

 

just wanted to add that i had to replace it too but i used a nipple advanced sold and just ran a longer hose was like 5 dollars. cheaper and is thicker jmho

 

Does anyone know how long the metal bypass tubes last before they rust? max miles/years? before yours failed

Do most people reuse them or replace them since they don't come with the water pump?

How long do they last before they fail?

 

In my experience, they last until the rust through (sorry to be flip.) There are just too many variables to give a "hard" answer to that question - I've seen them rust out after five years, I've seen them go thirty or more.

I can count on the fingers of one nose how many of them haven't had a 3/8" NPT thread (at least, on American vehicles,) so I just get a 3/8" brass pipe nipple, cut the threads off of one end and debur, and call it good. In that environment, brass will last about six times as long as steel will (I have never had a brass nipple fail. I have had to deal with steel nipples over and over again, when I get someone who specifies original equipment replacement. Then, they listen to me...)

The OEMs don't use brass because steel is cheaper. They should use brass because it lasts longer. Go figure.