I have one of those extraction tools, to be used with a drill. I think I understand from the internets, the general way to do this. Any specific tips about these bolts? I don't know how deep to drill(pass through or only a few inches deep), what size bit to use so I don't damage the threads on the shaft, what size bolt to replace it with?

I'd like to go to the hardware store on the way home instead of ordering.

Any extra suggestions I didn't know to ask for are much appreciated. I've never done this before.

https://m.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc-damaged-bolt-nut-remover-set-low/p-00952166000P
I'd try to remove it from the head provided that there is still a head. Sears sells multiple sets like this and I suspect that they are rebranded SK. Is there an head on the bolt?
Is this bolt one of two bolts holding one of the two brackets around a universal joint?
If you have to go inside of the bolt, then I recommend drilling with left hand threads because sometimes just using those will be enough. When you buy an extraction set it usually comes with the correct drill bit size for each tool. It should always let you know what size bit. Some like flutes and some like square drives on these. You can search garagejournal.com to your hearts content to read opinions and decide for yourself.
If there is a nut on the other side of a bolt, then I recommend buying a nut splitter to solve the problem.

That one won't work. Unfortunately, I have one where the head and the first couple mm's totally sheared off.

I have this kit,


I've read a bit more, and i'll give it a shot. I'm going to pick up a set of left hand drill bits on my way home, because that's the thing i don't have yet.

Thanks again.

I think that all of the bolts pass through the yokes. Therefore it should be easy enough to drill the broken bolt out in the worst case scenario.

When I had a sheared off driveshaft bolt, an easy-out worked perfectly for me. Of course, I'd recently removed the bolts and had put a bit of anti-seize on them, which obviously facilitated the extraction.

If the bolt has past thru the hole completely, then you can also try to grip the threads on the other side and work it out - either direction until the threads are ruined. Another thing that you can do is hit dead center at the rear end of the bolt with a punch to vibrate the bolt a bit before trying to remove it.

The bolts were probably Loctited in so you need to heat the area up to release the Loctite.

Check out "Related Thread". Heating the area instantly solved his problems.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/fro...t-help-108226/

With or without loctite, heat is always a helpful thing in removing stuck fasteners.

I'd grab a plumbers pad and make sure that you shield off the pinion seal/bearing area behind the yoke as well as any of the small brake lines that might be nearby and then set your MAP torch on it.

Well Pat, this should bring up interesting debate! The manufacturer wants threadlocker, but clearly a lot of people (especially in the NE) use anti-seize. His new bolts should come with threadlocker. An advantage of anti-seize is that bolts can be re-torqued (insert debate about re-torquing here). I must confess I used anti-seize when I put my front axle back in (or was it Loctite blue?). I used L blue on my U-bolts when in my mind those are bolts that need to be re-torqued, but certainly will weaken (if not totally destroy) the L blue.

What's the consensus?

Hmmm.. I've never considered loctite for the u-joint strap bolts. At least the new strap kits that I've bought (Dorman and AcDelco for sure and possibly some others) have never had anything on the new bolt threads.

I've run with the anti-seize and never had an issue with it, but also I've never had an issue removing the bolts with just a wrench (in other words, no heat required).

Mopar bolt (J4006928) will have stuff on it:

Also living in the NE salt country, I'm a heavy user of anti-seize too. I imagine from Mopar's perspective it's a liability issue.

That said, Loctite says:

"Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242 is particularly suited for applications on less active substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces, where disassembly is required for servicing."

drill it all the way through and tap new threads.

try drill thru with a LH bit, likely wind out of its own accord during the process

true that. just get a bit the same size as the bolt minus the threads. Cant be beat by broken bolts.

Consensus reporting in -

Coat all the threads with L Blue, insert and drive the screw all the way in to ensure the female threads are coated. Remove the screw and repeat with L Blue. The Blue is a medium security threadlocker for fasteners meant to be removable. Coating the threads thoroughly ensures that little moisture will creep in and cause the corrosion that seizes the screw or bolt in the hole. About the only threads I use anti-seize on are exhaust related, including O2 sensors, and spark plugs. I just changed the exhaust system on my 96 XJ and used nickel-based anti-seize on the aft O2 sensor and the clamps.

Beat me to it. Left hand drill bits are my go-to for blind broken off bolts. Start with a small drill bit. High spindle rpm, light pressure and keep the dang thing straight all the way through. If that doesn't work then reach for an easy-out. Low rpm, light pressure, keep it straight. If you break drill bits or easy-outs off in bolts you're gunna have a bad time.