Front Drive Shaft U Joint Bolt Help

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Oct 13, 2011 | 11:12 AM
  #1  
So the jackass that last tightened the bolts down for the front drive shaft u joints put them on so freaking tight, they are now stripped. As I dont have a welder to tac weld a nut to the top of the bolt to remove that way, what are some other options i can try? TC is on the work bench so access isnt an issue. Any help would be appreciated.
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Oct 13, 2011 | 11:44 AM
  #2  
A pic would be nice. You try a six point? Can you hacksaw the "U" bolt? (or angle grinder). Sometimes a chisel works to turn a POS bolt. Never tried it on something that small though. Heat can make a huge difference, got a propane torch?
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Oct 13, 2011 | 01:01 PM
  #3  
its the bolts that hold the clamps down over the ujoint on the TC itself. I was able to get it the clips and ujoint off the front axle no prob, just cant get the drive shaft off the TC now cuz 3 bolt heads are stripped.

I will try the 6 point and see if that works, no torch. I was thinking of maybe i could hammer on a smaller size end wrench and see if that could grip it enough to turn.
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Oct 13, 2011 | 01:08 PM
  #4  
a 6 point will slip easier than a 12 point. One way is to file down a flat spot and use vice grips if it's stripped really bad. PB blast the crud out of it to loosen it as much as possible.
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Oct 13, 2011 | 02:55 PM
  #5  
cut the heads off remove shaft the extract studs that are left...get new bolts...
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Oct 13, 2011 | 03:48 PM
  #6  
^^^xx2
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Oct 13, 2011 | 04:29 PM
  #7  
Quote: a 6 point will slip easier than a 12 point. One way is to file down a flat spot and use vice grips if it's stripped really bad. PB blast the crud out of it to loosen it as much as possible.
6 point will be less likely to slip than a 12 point. 6 point grips the entire bolt head rather than just the corners like the 12 point would.

I was in this same situation with my fron driveshaft and my 12 point wrench rounded it. But after I switched to a 6 point it held just fine.
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Oct 13, 2011 | 06:17 PM
  #8  
Guess it depends sometimes nordplz. 6 point needs to move more metal deeper to strip than a 12 point. Less airspace there I guess.

"hammer on a smaller size end wrench" Worth a try. The hammering might help free it.
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Oct 13, 2011 | 06:25 PM
  #9  
Go get a good snap-on flank drive 6 point socket .Matco or mac but for sure use a 6 point socket....
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Oct 13, 2011 | 10:34 PM
  #10  
Quote: Go get a good snap-on flank drive 6 point socket .Matco or mac but for sure use a 6 point socket....

X2
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Oct 17, 2011 | 11:42 AM
  #11  
Well I got em off. Went down to Harbor Freight and picked up one of those $10 mini torches. Got home, heated up the bolts with the mini torch, grabbed my needle nose vice grips, and surprisingly they broke loose with ease. Went down to the local junk yard and pulled out some new bolts. So good to roll now!
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Oct 17, 2011 | 09:22 PM
  #12  
Good for you, mannn that should have been easy. Well done. And now you have a torch

.................................................. .................V..X2, I like the copper anti-seize V
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Oct 17, 2011 | 09:36 PM
  #13  
hope you learned to use anti-seize on the new bolts when you put them in.
i put that **** on everything.
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Oct 17, 2011 | 09:48 PM
  #14  
If I'm thinking of the right bolts, I thought you were supposed yo use the blue thread locker
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Oct 18, 2011 | 08:09 AM
  #15  
Depending on your axle yoke style Id suggest you drill out the threading and using a ford Ubolt style u-joint retainer. Makes removing it easier and those things ARE BEEF compared to the factory sorry **** straps. Also if you insist on using the factory straps, I suggest you get new bolts. I cant tell you howmany times Ive broken mines on a trail and had to retap the hole....


Link to u-bolt swap
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/re...version-28141/
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