I won't get too long into it but i had to pull the head on the 89. My question and i guess i really need opinions...
I have two options for a head, junkyard it at the tune of 50 some bucks and hope that the head doesn't need milled-keep in mind i don't have the means to be sure, or buy a rebuilt head to the tune of 325? Im just wondering what other people would do in this case, junk yard it and hope for the best? Im not big on gambling! I also plan to replace pushrods, rockers, and lifters while im in there. Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.

 

A head is worth doing right. If you can in any way get the funds together, buy a high quality unit.

 

Could save a few bucks getting valve job done on yours also throw a set of lifters in there why its apart.

 

Any companies better than another or personal recomendation?

Ive found a moores cylinder head from Advance for about 325 with my discount, the other was from Cylinder Heads International for about that too. Its the renix head so is getting more scarce. not like the 91+ HO heads.

 

Im taking it in later today to have it looked at, my whole problem is the exhaust studs, one broke off in the head (the PO must have TRIED to repair it...poorly) thats all the way in the rear, the very front stud has been repaired already but poorly (the hole is tapped larger but appears crooked, so im taking it to have it looked at if those can be repaired correctly then ill have mine redone if the price is a savings compared to a rebuilt unit.

 

If anyone out there can enlighten me on where to get Cylinder Head bolts for an 89 4.0, do please tell! I can't find them anywhere except for rock auto and they want a 12 day hold on shipping! Thank you very much

 

I got mine, a felpro kit, from the local parts store. Not an autozone/pepboys, but a shop filled with good ol' boys.

They cost a litte more than online, but I like to have those shops around. They will always talk with you about your cars and issues. And the guys have GREAT experience to bring to the conversation. Unlike asking the home depot guys what they think, lucky if they know much at all....

So call your local non chain store and ask, they can help you out I'm sure.

 

you don't happen to know the part number for the kit do you?

 

Box is at home, and was for a 2001. I recall a post that there are a couple of kits depending on the year. I think it is a difference in the long vs. short bolts not a change in the size (IE either would functionally work).

NOTE: Be sure to seal the #11 bolt, it goes into the water jacket near the water pump. Requires a different final torque as well.

 

What's the name of that cool old time machine shop on Campbell Avenue?

 

I could make a name up!

 

On another subject cruiser what are your thoughts on blocking the egr ports on the exhaust and intake, plugging the vac line for the egr and unplugging the electrical? Any ill effects that you've seen? Just thought I would ask since that darn little tube snapped and I can't locate one in decent shape

 

The discussion of emission equipment removal is not allowed on this forum.

 

You are absolutely correct, my apologies

 

Very funny "P". Yea, I'd look at drilling and tapping the bad manifold studs, and running the head I had if it was OK. That's just me. A JY head that just evenly seeped a little kerosene, or solvent past the valves, (ports up), I might lap the valves, put it together with the stem seals that come in the gasket kit. Any flat-edge and a .060 feeler gauge could tell you if its flat.