Need Advice - Just purchased XJ has problems
#1
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Year: 1998
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Need Advice - Just purchased XJ has problems
Hi all,
The 1998 XJ Classic I just bought *seemed* OK, but when I took it to my trusted mechanic, of course, they found a bunch of expensive problems. Ugh.
They heard a noise which I didn't notice - when putting the vehicle in gear, a *click* comes from the rear differential area. This led them to open up the rear and the transfer case. What they found were lots of metal shavings in the transfer case, and excessive play in the rear differential (which probably caused the metal shavings in the transfer case).
I'm going to try to get the dealer to help fix or pay for this, considering the price I paid (too much), I should not have to turn around and dump $2,000-3,000 into this vehicle.
This XJ is going to be my "daily driver," but I have a company vehicle, so I won't drive it daily. I won't be using it for (much) off roading.
My mechanical experience is next to none. I'm learning a lot from this site and the web in general, but I've never even thought about replacing a rear differential and transfer case before. From what I understand it isn't something a novice should attempt anyway.
The shop quoted me $2,130.25 to rebuild the rear, or $2,152.22 to replace it with a Jasper. The transfer case with labor would be another $1,448.85. UGH. Thoughts?
One other thing that is bothering me is the oil pressure gauge. When I'm rolling down the road, its usually between 35-40. But if I'm stopped, it hovers around 10-15. Is this OK? I know my truck doesn't do this, so I'm a little concerned. It also will jerk sometimes after starting from a stop, but I imagine that could well be related to the differential and transfer case.
Thanks for your input. In the mean time I'll be arguing with a used car dealer. (Shoot me now!)
The 1998 XJ Classic I just bought *seemed* OK, but when I took it to my trusted mechanic, of course, they found a bunch of expensive problems. Ugh.
They heard a noise which I didn't notice - when putting the vehicle in gear, a *click* comes from the rear differential area. This led them to open up the rear and the transfer case. What they found were lots of metal shavings in the transfer case, and excessive play in the rear differential (which probably caused the metal shavings in the transfer case).
I'm going to try to get the dealer to help fix or pay for this, considering the price I paid (too much), I should not have to turn around and dump $2,000-3,000 into this vehicle.
This XJ is going to be my "daily driver," but I have a company vehicle, so I won't drive it daily. I won't be using it for (much) off roading.
My mechanical experience is next to none. I'm learning a lot from this site and the web in general, but I've never even thought about replacing a rear differential and transfer case before. From what I understand it isn't something a novice should attempt anyway.
The shop quoted me $2,130.25 to rebuild the rear, or $2,152.22 to replace it with a Jasper. The transfer case with labor would be another $1,448.85. UGH. Thoughts?
One other thing that is bothering me is the oil pressure gauge. When I'm rolling down the road, its usually between 35-40. But if I'm stopped, it hovers around 10-15. Is this OK? I know my truck doesn't do this, so I'm a little concerned. It also will jerk sometimes after starting from a stop, but I imagine that could well be related to the differential and transfer case.
Thanks for your input. In the mean time I'll be arguing with a used car dealer. (Shoot me now!)
Last edited by XJ-6; 04-22-2011 at 01:52 PM.
#3
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Year: 1991
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Hi all,
The 1998 XJ Classic I just bought *seemed* OK, but when I took it to my trusted mechanic, of course, they found a bunch of expensive problems. Ugh.
They heard a noise which I didn't notice - when putting the vehicle in gear, a *click* comes from the rear differential area. This led them to open up the rear and the transfer case. What they found were lots of metal shavings in the transfer case, and excessive play in the rear differential (which probably caused the metal shavings in the transfer case).
I'm going to try to get the dealer to help fix or pay for this, considering the price I paid (too much), I should not have to turn around and dump $2,000-3,000 into this vehicle.
This XJ is going to be my "daily driver," but I have a company vehicle, so I won't drive it daily. I won't be using it for (much) off roading.
My mechanical experience is next to none. I'm learning a lot from this site and the web in general, but I've never even thought about replacing a rear differential and transfer case before. How hard is it to do yourself?
The shop quoted me $2,130.25 to rebuild the rear, or $2,152.22 to replace it with a Jasper. The transfer case with labor would be another $1,448.85. UGH. Thoughts?
One other thing that is bothering me is the oil pressure gauge. When I'm rolling down the road, its usually between 35-40. But if I'm stopped, it hovers around 10-15. Is this OK? I know my truck doesn't do this, so I'm a little concerned. It also will jerk sometimes after starting from a stop, but I imagine that could well be related to the differential and transfer case.
Thanks for your input. In the mean time I'll be arguing with a used car dealer. (Shoot me now!)
The 1998 XJ Classic I just bought *seemed* OK, but when I took it to my trusted mechanic, of course, they found a bunch of expensive problems. Ugh.
They heard a noise which I didn't notice - when putting the vehicle in gear, a *click* comes from the rear differential area. This led them to open up the rear and the transfer case. What they found were lots of metal shavings in the transfer case, and excessive play in the rear differential (which probably caused the metal shavings in the transfer case).
I'm going to try to get the dealer to help fix or pay for this, considering the price I paid (too much), I should not have to turn around and dump $2,000-3,000 into this vehicle.
This XJ is going to be my "daily driver," but I have a company vehicle, so I won't drive it daily. I won't be using it for (much) off roading.
My mechanical experience is next to none. I'm learning a lot from this site and the web in general, but I've never even thought about replacing a rear differential and transfer case before. How hard is it to do yourself?
The shop quoted me $2,130.25 to rebuild the rear, or $2,152.22 to replace it with a Jasper. The transfer case with labor would be another $1,448.85. UGH. Thoughts?
One other thing that is bothering me is the oil pressure gauge. When I'm rolling down the road, its usually between 35-40. But if I'm stopped, it hovers around 10-15. Is this OK? I know my truck doesn't do this, so I'm a little concerned. It also will jerk sometimes after starting from a stop, but I imagine that could well be related to the differential and transfer case.
Thanks for your input. In the mean time I'll be arguing with a used car dealer. (Shoot me now!)
As for the t-case, do the same or you can order a rebuilt here: http://www.transfercases.com/order.htm
All of these can be replaced at home as long as you have the right tools. Everything should bolt out and in. Grab a Haynes manual and have a CherokeeForum shortcut on your desktop and get to it! WAY much less than $4000+ dollars.
#4
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take it back to the dealer, ask them to fix it if its under warranty, if its not...its your baby....if they refuse, they may be willing to work out a deal, if not threaten to return it, call the bbb, and take your buisness else where....i had to do that once or twice when i bought my jeep
#5
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Year: 1991
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ATK Reman engines??? Anygood??
Are these engines worth purchasing? Both 4WD parts and Quadratec swears by them but I'm not convinsed. Does anyone have experience with these? and are they worth the 2200.00 bucks. The local dealership wants 4000.00, I don't trust them.
#6
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take it back to the dealer, ask them to fix it if its under warranty, if its not...its your baby....if they refuse, they may be willing to work out a deal, if not threaten to return it, call the bbb, and take your buisness else where....i had to do that once or twice when i bought my jeep
#7
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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take it back to the dealer, ask them to fix it if its under warranty, if its not...its your baby....if they refuse, they may be willing to work out a deal, if not threaten to return it, call the bbb, and take your buisness else where....i had to do that once or twice when i bought my jeep
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#8
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#9
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Just called the dealer back; he started screaming at me completely unprovoked. If anyone is in the Fredericksburg, VA area, STAY AWAY from Sullivan Auto Trading, Inc.
#10
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#11
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Year: 1987
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Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
X2 on finding a late model (00-01) Chrysler 8.25 in a junkyard XJ. Drum to drum complete should only be 200-300 dollars...and they can still be found in great shape. Snag the TC out of the same XJ. If the rear axle is in good shape, the TC should be, too.
#12
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WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY better deal than your crook mechanic quoted you. Him and the guy who owns the dealership where you bought your XJ might be brothers....lol.
#13
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^^^ Agreed there are laws that protect you, especially when you buy from a licensed dealer
#14
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the u pull it yard around here charges 160 drum to drum, but if your existing drums, shoes are still in great condition, you can save a few bucks
Last edited by SqueakyT1O; 04-22-2011 at 03:05 PM.
#15
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dude. its time to get serious w/ this shop. you called him on selling you a bad car. he got defensive. that tells me they probably knew. being harrassed by the guy is way out of line. he needs to be held accountable for that. the bigger issue, your xj, is still not resolved. dont play nice with this one. the better business bureau is not the agency to have snooping around, so im sure that this ******* will understand that. and if not, then make him pay!! whats the number, i wanna **** with him! good luck!!