Mctowelie

Hello all, this is my first post on Cherokee Forum, but i must say i have been here allot on my spare time, looking at ideas for my Dark Green 97 XJ Sport i aquired off my brother for $2,000 about 4 months ago when i got my license(well a bit before, but i can be lazy at times, working on over-coming that :P) anyways...

Its a nice Jeep i need to get some photo's up. I have rust, but dont we all. Its minor on my rockers have small spots of surface and one small little bubble, my hood has small surface rust right on right front side where it meets the pass. fender. & a line of just surface rust on the wee top of my rear hatch where it meets the roof (but only if you rlly look). All that i plan on doing after this upcoming winter...

But i do have a few small holes about quarter sized; at the most, in my driver floor plan right where the bottom of the rockers meets the underside. & that includes my one drain plug that is rusting away with the other ( I belive just 2) holes where i can fit one finger threw and push on the carpet a bit. Heres my plan...

Its October 30th, winter is right around the corner... today im going to pick my xj up from the shop ( new ***** n U's) and by next week ill have to start doing my floor pan. This being my first ever time attempting something like this. ( Im only 17) & winter is coming around the bend.. heres what i plan to pick up. as far as supplies....

Pop Rivets & Gun

Sheet Metal (where could i aquire this?)

3mm Rubberized undercoating

Hacksaw

Drill & some sized bit (depending on my metal thickness??)

Black RTV Auto Sealer
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Obviously ill jack it up. Now i only plan on pulling my driver seat and trim and just peel the carpet back far enough from the section im working on to make it more simpler. Heres my question(s) -

1.) What type of tools should i use to prep my old rusted metal on my floorboard? - I was thinking a sawzall and a wire wheel attachment for a drill, or a wire brush?

2.) Am i sufficing anything not making another drian plug hole in my floorpan other then if i ever got it flooded with water??

3.) Is there something else i could prep the new sheet metal to cut to size with that would be more precise other than a hacksaw???

... Is there anything im missing?? I know the process on which i will proceed to take on this project isnt here but i will be reffering to a thred on this site 'Cheap quick floor patch idea'.

Thanks Guys, all help is appreciated.

LizardRunner

sounds like you have a pretty good plan. The wire wheel idea is good for inital de-rusting but do finish off with some metal etch (Metal Prep) from your local automotive paint shop. This stuff is great for the little crevases and any rust you leave is just seed for the next rust out. To find your sheet metal, look in the phone book for metal suppliers. I would use at least 18 gauge steel, 16 gauge would be better if you can. Pop rivets will work just fine, every 1 inch for best stiffness. (I weld in floor panels, but I have my own equipment and am a panel beater.) I would definately use the undercoating on both sides after sealing the edge with the RTV on both sides. A good set of snips, die grinder with cutoff wheel, or air nibbler will give you better and faster cutting than a hacksaw, but we make do with what we have right?

OssipeeXJ

I have been searching and reading alot of threads on floor repair. My floors where replaced with correct patch panels and riveted in and seam sealed. With this method does it give enough strength for the unibody. Or should I weld the floors from underneath. They look clean. I just dont want to flex the body when offroad.

OssipeeXJ

ooops I didnt realize how old this thread was.

Gee oh Dee

Welding is always going to be the best option.

And its much easier than one would think.

I did my floors. First few pages of my build thread have pics...