Parkian

My recently completed budget boost on my 2000.

I used 2.25" spacers in the front and in the rear I did a bastard pack using the main leaf off a 2002ish?? Jimmy added to my stock leaf packs giving me about 3" over stock from .5" under stock. I totally didn't expect to get that much lift in the back from what I've read from other folks on XJ forum. I also put two coats of "Slip Plate" (dry graphite lube) on all my XJ leaves including the main after cleaning them up good with a wire wheel.

As a result of the unexpected lift in the back I had some vibes from driveshaft due to the pinion angle being off. So I added 3* shims to the packs to help level the pinion angle. Worked pretty good, still have a little vibration but I'm hoping as the packs settle, my pinion angle will improve.

In the back I took out the sway bar and ended using the the bushing sleeves from the sway mounts for the upper shock eyes. I didn't want to regret putting the shock 90* off when I had free metal lying around so I decided to go with homemade 1.5” BPE's. I just used 1/4" steel bent 90* with a half inch hole for my half inch pin/bolt which fit perfectly in the sway bar mount sleeve. I used new 3/8" hardware (original was 5/16") to mount the BPE's to the frame/body/bracket thingy. This was accomplished using the "nut and washer taped to a wrench and fished through the opening" trick. Not easy, but I know it's solid now.

As for the “original” upper rear shock mounts (dumbass mechanic who changed my shocks 2 years ago used a mish mash of “solutions” to fix the problem after one of my shocks came loose on the highway) …….it was a NIGHTMARE!!! It took me the whole day to drill out the old hardware (not one bolt snapped….uugh!!) to 3/8”. I’m very happy with my homemade BPE’s and they make it a breeze to change my shocks .

Hard to see in the wide shot, are the new Monroe sensatracs I put in. To save money I used Comanche shocks in the back and YJ shocks in the front. I had to press my old sway bar mount sleeves into the Comanche shocks and my old bar pins into the YJ shocks.

I'm extremely happing with the results. The XJ definitely rides better over all but especially in the rear. Next task is tires. I going to go with 31" BFG AT/KO when I have the cash but the 235 BFG TA/KO I have on now will do.

Previous to this project the biggest job I had tackled was replacing the gasket on the valve cover. If I can do it anyone can do it with the basic hand tools, a grinder, a floor jack, jack stands, a drill and a lot of patience.... .

Oh yeah, and I didn't have to used spring compressors to get in the spacers, just had to droop the axle down far enough but you must remember to remove the bracket holding your brake line to the inside of the wheel well (almost realized to late) .

Hopefully I will inspire other newbie XJer's to try lifting their XJ's on the cheap. I don't see many lifted XJ's in Ontario, Canada andI think that is mainly because of the ridiculous price of parts for lifted jeeps in this country. For our friends south of the border......I would say on average, aftermarket jeep parts are double the price here that they are in the states.

To accomplish this project I used the wealth of information available on cherokeeforum and the rock lizard budget boost page as guides.

I would like to thank Orangemc13 for his help and advice. I basically copied what he did to his ’99 XJ.


Parkian

Orangeamc13

Looks good! I'm glad I could help you! The extra lift height in the rear could probably be attributed to the donor leaves being from a "newerish" vehicle. Most of the donors I see used are from mid 80's - mid 90's. I'm sure the new packs will settle nicely, especially with the graphite lube you used. Make sure you get back under there and retorque everything after you put a few miles on.

rweaver138

good idea with the homemade BPE's

Parkian

Thanks Orange. I already retorqued once, I plan on driving for a few more days then doing it again.

Thanks rweaver138. The BPE's were made from dock brackets from a dock that washed up on the shore of my folks cottage, nothing beats free and they were already bent at 90* just had to cut 'em out.


the dock and brackets....soon to be BPE's

Parkian

one more thing......

for anyone who wants to use leaf liners or anti-friction pads. I would highly recommend using "Slip Plate" or another type of graphite lube instead. It's cheap and you can layer it on as thick as you like.

I even coated my rear differential, driveshaft and axle with the stuff just because I had leftover and I noticed after leaving my painted leaves outside for two months they still looked like the day I painted, no rust, the finish is pretty hard, and dirt/mud didn't stick very easily to them.

Not sure if "Slip Plate" itself is available in the US but there are three different grades. The grade I used was the highest of the three (meaning more graphite) and came in a 1 litre can ($15 canadian) from the "Tractor Supply Company" or TSC. Once this stuff gets burnished it turns mirror smooth and is very very slippery.

01jp

Nice write up and information.....I bet that graphite paint would be good for sqeaking leaf springs, might have to try that stuff in the spring time!