kdot

Hello all,

Long time lurker of CF.com and always enjoyed the atmosphere of gear heads alike. I apologize for coming here to ask questions that I need to know about, rather than applying my knowledge to others before asking for help. But I ensure CF.com, I will pass on my knowledge as I go!

I am DIYer but during the winter, I will get a friend/ mechanic of mine to do work since they have a lift, and heated shop. Michigan is currently single digits all week, with a blizzard this morning; I ain't working in that ****!

1998 Jeep Cherokee Limited 4x4 4.0L
-Remanned Motor
-Remanned Tranny
-steering links
-All tie rods
- Pretty much a new front end
-Control arms
-Fuel Pump
-Fuel lines
-ALL 4 struts
* Aligned after all that work.

1) I've got a weird quirk with the electrical system on this vehicle. I feel as though I've cleaned and double checked most of the grounds- everything looks fine. Here is link to a short video showing what I've got going on.
https://*******/Fas0
Disregard the music LOL. My question is, what would cause this? My fuel gauge ONLY does this when its at that specific amount of fuel. So it might only do that for 5 miles. BCM? No CEL...

2) My mechanic redid the front end for me with ball joints, tie rods, sway bar and all new bushings. But I got my JEEP back and it felt great for a day or so, then I noticed these two things VERY loose.



This was a new ball joint, it lasted maybe 3 days. I'm guessing because the sway bar end links were SO loose and the body roll was intense that it stressed the overfilled grease fitted balljoint at the pitman arm and blew. Just my theory. Thoughts????



My mechanic told me he tightened this to torque spec... I called him a liar, there is no way this is to spec... I can see the stud between the bushings! When the picture was taken, I was on level ground.

Any thoughts? Am I being lied to? He said he will fix the ball joint but is arguing with me about the steering linkage telling me its torque to spec. It doesnt't feel right, nor does it drive right. It feels like a boat with alot of body roll.

CF forums, can you help me ask the right questions to my mechanic so I can get this taken care of?

odgreen

First. That's not a ball joint. That's the tie rod end. He forgot to tighten it.

And the sway links should be tighter. He sucks and makes us other mechanics look bad

Firestorm500

That doesn't look like a new tie rod end to me. Sway bar's not new like you said it was.

I've always tightened sway bar end links until the rubber starts squashing.

I seriously question whether your mechanic did even a little work before taking money for the full job. Now he's being combative. Hmmmmm.

gunmetal_nightrider

Yeah that is NOT a new tie rod end on your pitman arm. No way in hell would a new part look that crappy after 3 days. I agree your sway bar bushings are not tight. See where the rust had touched the bushing? Thats the sway bar link bouncing up and down in there from it being LOOSE. They are certainly new bushings though. If you had some hand tools you could tighten them up yourself.

Find a new mechanic is my best advise. Or learn to wrench a little....its cheaper. I bought new steering (drag link, tie rod ends, adjusting sleeves) and with just a few hours had a much more solid setup for only 185 bucks!

Sandyman

1. He forgot he didn't torque it. 2. He either asked someone to do it that didn't, or thought he asked someone else to do it. 3. If he came back from lunch and had a nice cocktail or four or smoke he just zoned out. Whatever happened, If you think it is any of the above, take your licking and go some where else. I wouldn't let him touch it again unless I watched and knew what he was supposed to be doing. Or like mentioned above, plenty of resources online to help you fix this problem if you are so inclined.

kdot

Thanks for all the support guys. I'm going to have him fix what he said he would, and get packin' to another mechanic. Like I said, I'm capable of fixing these things, often don't have the time/ weather sucks here. Any advice is well received though! I am not great but am a good problem solver.

I am going to a buddies tomorrow (heated garage) and tighten everything up.

But, does anyone have any clue what might be causing the gas gauge needle to do this? Only at this level of gas, once I drive 5-10 miles, it won't fluctuate at all. (New pump)
https://*******/Fas0

Firestorm500

Bad connection or pinched wire somewhere.

If it didn't do it before the new pump, then in the tank is where you start.

CCKen

Concerning the fuel gauge:


Do the instrument cluster Actuator Test. If the fuel gauge performs properly the problem may be with the fuel pump module fuel quantity resistor, or the wiring/connector going to the fuel pump.


If it doesn't activate properly, the instrument cluster may be defective.




ACTUATOR TEST


The instrument cluster actuator test will put the cluster into its self-diagnostic mode. In this mode the cluster will position each of the gauge needles at various specified calibration points, and turn all of the CCD data bus message-controlled lamps on and off at specifiedtime intervals.


Successful completion of the actuator test will confirm that the cluster circuitry, gauges, and lamps are capable of operating as designed. However, there may still be a problem with the CCD data bus, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the Airbag Control Module (ACM), or the inputs to one of these modules. Use a DRB scan tool and the proper Diagnostic Procedures manual for testing of these components.


If an individual gauge does not respond properly or at all during the Actuator Test, the instrument cluster should be removed. However, check the gauge mounting screws on the printed circuit boardfor proper tightness before considering instrument cluster replacement. If the mounting screws check OK, replace the faulty cluster.


If an individual indicator lamp does not illuminate during the Actuator Test, the instrument cluster should be removed. However, check that the incandescent lamp bulb is not faulty and that the bulb holder is properly installed on the circuit board before considering instrument cluster replacement. If the bulb and bulb holder check OK, replace the faulty instrument cluster.


(1) Begin the test withthe ignition switch in the Off position.


(2) Depress the trip odometer reset button.


(3) While holding the trip odometer reset button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the On position, but do not start the engine.


(4) Release the trip odometer reset button.


(5) Compare the operation of the suspect gauge(s) and/or lamp(s). The gauges will cycle about every two seconds.


(6) The cluster will exit the self-diagnostic mode at the completion of the test, or if the ignition switch is turned to the Off position.


(7) Go back to Step 1 to repeat the test, if required.

kdot

It did it with the old pump, and had a CEL as well. Now no CEL, same issue.

Ken, thank you for the actuator test. Will reply with findings.

CCKen

Here's a chart that shows how the instruments should react when doing the test.


The needle will stop momentarily at each test point, then move to the next in about two seconds.

Weste

What years is this test valid for? 1992?

Firestorm500

Probably for ODB II vehicles, 1997 and later.

CCKen

Looking at that video again I see that the Low Fuel Warning light never did come on when the fuel quantity indicator needle went to "E". The light is a function of the PCM. I think you may have a defective fuel quantity indicator (?).

kdot

Fuel quantity indicator? Where would that be? On the pump?

Keep in mind, it ONLY does what the video shows AT THAT FUEL LEVEL in the tank. At no other level of fuel will it do what it did in the video, so recreating the problem to show a mechanic is difficult.

Firestorm500

Yeah, that's the rheostat on the float arm. Probably has a dead spot in it. If it were mine, I probably wouldn't go through all the trouble to drop the tank and replace the fuel pump assembly again.

I'm assuming the OP replaced the whole cartridge and not just the pump. If he replaced just the pump and retained everything else, well that's probably the problem.

I have been told by several mechanics to not cheap out, replace the whole assembly while you're in there. Not saying the OP didn't do the whole thing.