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Moving to Dessert Hot Springs, CA. Need advice!!!

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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 09:44 AM
  #16  
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I've seen another black xj out here with a hood scoop/vent off center on the left of the hood and a sun visor thing . Lifted , I think it had a basket on top too.

My xj is a stock, black 2wd with a 4' black wilson antenna on the right rear tail light.
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 03:34 PM
  #17  
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Hey guys can I get some links on how to change the water pump and fan clutch?? As I just moved to the desert I haven't been able to set up my internet yet and my cell data connection sucks.

Oh and I saw that black xj, lifted, hood scoop, roof basket, etc etc for sale. I believe its on Pierson Rd. I'll sere if I can find it today
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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 07:29 PM
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Bump...
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 04:53 PM
  #19  
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Ok so I just hooked up my OBDII scanner and I'm.running at a, temp of 213-216 at normal driving on the street then at stop lights it goes up to 223-230. Seems like I def need change something. Like I mentioned before the radiator is just over a year old.

Could be a weak water pump?? With an old fan clutch?? I'm sure both are original to the xj with 154,000 miles.
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 05:41 PM
  #20  
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Also, these temp readings are what I'm getting here in the desert. They will tend to be 10 degrees lower when I'm closer to the coast.
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by askingxforxit
.........Could be a weak water pump?? With an old fan clutch?? I'm sure both are original to the xj with 154,000 miles.
I think u got your moneys worth......may now be on borrowed time......but hey, some will say if it ain't broke don't fix it....when it comes to cooling systems, that dog don't hunt, IMHO.
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 08:19 PM
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probably need a radiator while your at it.
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Old Aug 11, 2011 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by cdawall
probably need a radiator while your at it.
Read above, radiator isn't even two years old
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Old Aug 11, 2011 | 02:46 PM
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I live here in Sacramento and dealing with summer heat and bumper to bumper traffic I had overheating problems. I replaced the radiator with a new aluminum one from autozone for $100 and replaced the thermostat with a 160 degree one. now, i can run the AC on full, in 110 degree weather, at a stop light for hrs with no heating problems. not saying this is the only fix, but it worked for me.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 93gc40
Just keep it properly tuned and maintained, should be fine.. Maybe add a HD Fan Clutch and a Trany Cooler. Vents won't make it run any cooler, just lets some heat out.
I put in the HD fan clutch yesterday. Temp at idle while sitting on the freeway still webby up to about 216* but a little slower than before and once I started rolling it cooled down faster. Next step a flowkool water pump and 160-180* thermostat???
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by askingxforxit

I put in the HD fan clutch yesterday. Temp at idle while sitting on the freeway still webby up to about 216* but a little slower than before and once I started rolling it cooled down faster. Next step a flowkool water pump and 160-180* thermostat???
Everyone states that the XJs need to run around 190 for emissions/tuning and what not. But I honestly seen no difference in performance, milage or idle/RPMs between the 195 t-stat and the 160 t-stat.

Reason I ran the 160 is due to the hot summer months. As Sacramento rarely sees freezing temps and a majority of time is spent in slow moving traffic in 100+ degree weather, I figured the more the water is circulating and the less time it is spent in the engine heating up, less chances i would face with over heating it. This could be completely off, but just seemed to make sense to me.

So between the new radiator and 160 t stat it never had issues with over heating in traffic with the a/c on. Now that I am in Iowa, I have gone back to the 195 t-stat as its freaking freezing out here. But again this what worked for my '94, I'm sure newer XJs would see issues running a lower t-stat.

This is just from my own personal experience. I have no facts to back up my theory other than it just seemed to work for me so I ran with it. Also it passed CA smog with the 160 in it so apparently it didn't effect emissions.

Last edited by kissthis66; Feb 14, 2012 at 12:18 PM.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 01:59 PM
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I'm def going to keep an aluminum rad on the to do list. I'm sure the water pump is original so that'll get changed next with a 160 tstat cuz temps here in the summer reach 115+ and I plan on gettin a trailer to tow some quads.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 02:26 PM
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Go to the dealer and get a factory t-stat if you dont have one already.

I had issues like that for the last few years and this August it was about 95 and it went up in the 220's. During this winter I would roll up to 215-216 at lights and then it would cool down to 200ish.

After replacing with a dealer Tstat I now run around 195 (its winter in IL) and rarely see over 203 sitting. The tstat regulates things a lot better than the superstat from stant. Also check your radiator cap and replace if needed.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 02:35 PM
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I replaced the rad cap a year ago so it should still be good. What is the temp of the factory stat??
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 02:39 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by askingxforxit
I replaced the rad cap a year ago so it should still be good. What is the temp of the factory stat??
195*

They have a hole and a bead in them to get any air out and they really work well. I have read a ton of threads over the years and many guys fixed an issue similar to yours (and the one I was having) by popping in a dealer tstat. I should add that I also put in a brand new pump this winter chasing this problem. It sucks to have to go there and get your eyes ripped out on price, but it is a hell of a lot better than chasing your tail and having issues.

You can also run 70/30 mix which will help cooling, but if it gets cold at all in the winter I would make sure to change back to 50/50 for the winter.
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