The firing order you posted is correct if you check this diagram you'll see #1 is @ 6 oclock & the distributor rotates clockwise. http://autorepair.about.com/library/...bl-fo-8032.htm
Make sure the plug wires follow as straight a path as possible to the plug and don't allow any wire to loop around another. This can transfer voltage to an ajoining wire and fire the wrong spark plug.
The harmonic balancer is actually two seperate pieces with a rubber collar holding them together. Over time the rubber will degrade and the outer hub as well as the index mark will move. The only way to check this is to pull the balancer and check the relationship between the keyway slot for the crank & the index mark on the outside hub.
Make sure the plug wires follow as straight a path as possible to the plug and don't allow any wire to loop around another. This can transfer voltage to an ajoining wire and fire the wrong spark plug.
The harmonic balancer is actually two seperate pieces with a rubber collar holding them together. Over time the rubber will degrade and the outer hub as well as the index mark will move. The only way to check this is to pull the balancer and check the relationship between the keyway slot for the crank & the index mark on the outside hub.
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Make sure the plug wires follow as straight a path as possible to the plug and don't allow any wire to loop around another. This can transfer voltage to an ajoining wire and fire the wrong spark plug.
The harmonic balancer is actually two seperate pieces with a rubber collar holding them together. Over time the rubber will degrade and the outer hub as well as the index mark will move. The only way to check this is to pull the balancer and check the relationship between the keyway slot for the crank & the index mark on the outside hub.
I'll check the hub, good info, although it looks solid.Originally Posted by Turbo X_J
The firing order you posted is correct if you check this diagram you'll see #1 is @ 6 oclock & the distributor rotates clockwise. http://autorepair.about.com/library/...bl-fo-8032.htmMake sure the plug wires follow as straight a path as possible to the plug and don't allow any wire to loop around another. This can transfer voltage to an ajoining wire and fire the wrong spark plug.
The harmonic balancer is actually two seperate pieces with a rubber collar holding them together. Over time the rubber will degrade and the outer hub as well as the index mark will move. The only way to check this is to pull the balancer and check the relationship between the keyway slot for the crank & the index mark on the outside hub.
I disagree with that link. Mainly because it indicates that the screw holes are not where they actually are on the distributor. I'm fixing the 1990, the 93 died, so I went to the same site and it showed the same picture.
the pic shows that the left screw is up top, when actually it's almost reversed. It would be impossible to mount the distributor this way as the mounting bolt goes in between two fingers.
Just went back to the FSM...You may be right about 1 being at 6oclock.
Rushing to finish my dinner to test this. Holy **** I hope this works.
Rushing to finish my dinner to test this. Holy **** I hope this works.
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ETA: Be sure & let us know.
Right, that's what I meant. They're wrong in the picture but in the FSM, can't get a pic from the FSM on here but it does show that the number one is at 6, what throws me off is the procedure later on showing where the rotor should be fully seated in the block.Originally Posted by Turbo X_J
^ thoses are the hold down fasteners for the cap.ETA: Be sure & let us know.
What also throws me off is the number 1 printed on the distributor cap...hopefully ill know tonight or early tomorrow.
Somethings wrong here. I'm going to hit mspaint and make a visual discription. back in a minute.
Here's how the distrib with cap on sits in the block. This is actually from a 93, but representative of what I'm talking about. The minor differences is that the wire harness for the cam sensor comes out below the tab after the 1st plug and the coil is south of where it is in this model.
Number 1 spark is above the cut out. it cannot be at true 6 oclock because of 2 reasons, the distrib cap ears lock into the distributor, and distributor fingers only allow it to be bolted to the block in one way. Therefore 1 is at 5 oclock, theres no other way.
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These are the instructions from the FSM on how to index the distributor. I have comments in blue. Unfortunately I can't extract the images from the FSM and put them here.
Number 1 spark is above the cut out. it cannot be at true 6 oclock because of 2 reasons, the distrib cap ears lock into the distributor, and distributor fingers only allow it to be bolted to the block in one way. Therefore 1 is at 5 oclock, theres no other way.
These are the instructions from the FSM on how to index the distributor. I have comments in blue. Unfortunately I can't extract the images from the FSM and put them here.
DISTRIBUTOR
Removal
1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2) On vehicles equipped with A/C, remove the electrical
cooling fan and shroud assembly from the radiator to allow room to
rotate the engine with a socket and ratchet using the vibration damper
bolt.
3) Scribe a mark on the distributor housing below the left
side (past) the number one spark plug wire post of the distributor cap for reassembly reference for No 1 cylinder firing position. IT NOTES TO MAKE THE MARK PAST THE NO 1 CYL
4) Remove the distributor cap.
5) Turn the engine in a clockwise direction until the rotor
is approaching the scribed mark on the distributor housing. Then slowly turn the engine until the timing mark on the crankshaft
vibration damper lines up with zero on the front cover timing scale. IM STARTING FROM SCRATCH, THIS IS ASSUMING ITS ALREADY ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE
See Fig. 24.
NOTE: The timing mark is located on the edge of the vibration
damper closest to the front cover.
Fig. 24: View of Crankshaft Vibration Damper Timing Marks
Courtesy of Chrysler Motors.
6) Align the trailing edge of the rotor blade with the mark
previously scribed on the distributor housing. See Fig. 25.
Fig. 25: Aligning Rotor & Distributor Cap for Removal
Courtesy of Chrysler Motors.
7) Remove the distributor hold-down bolt and clamp.
8) Remove the distributor from the engine.
Installation
1) If needed, use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the oil
pump gear shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o’clock
position. See Fig. 26. The oil pump shaft is located down in the distributor hole.
Fig. 26: Aligning Oil Pump Gear Shaft
Courtesy of Chrysler Motors.
2) Install the rotor.
3) Without engaging the distributor gear into the cam gear
and ensuring the distributor gasket is installed, position the
distributor into the hole in the engine block.
4) Visually line up the hold down ear of the distributor
housing with the hold down clamp hole. See Fig. 27.
Fig. 27: Installing Distributor
Courtesy of Chrysler Motors.
5) Turn the rotor to the 4 o’clock position. See Fig. 28.
Fig. 28: Installing & Aligning Rotor
Courtesy of Chrysler Motors.
6) Carefully slide the distributor into the block until it
seats, keeping the hold down ear aligned to the hole in the block.
7) The rotor should be in the 5 o’clock position with the
trailing edge of the rotor blade lined up with the mark previously scribed on the distributor housing (number one spark plug wire post location). TRAILING EDGE IS CONFUSING. THAT WOULD INDICATE TO ME THAT THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE ROTOR BLADE NEEDS TO BE LINED UP WITH THE MARK ON THE DISTRIB HOUSING. IF SO, THAT MEANS THAT THE ROTOR IS LINED UP PAST THE NO 1 CYL FIRING POST AND THAT THE LEFT SIDE OF THE ROTOR BLADE IS ALMOST ABOUT TO HIT THE NUMBER 5 POST.
8) install the distributor hold-down clamp bolt and tighten
to 9.5-14 Ft. Lbs. (13-19 N.m).
9) Install the distributor cap. Connect the distributor
electrical connector.
10) Install the electric cooling fan and shroud if
applicable.
11) Connect the negative battery cable.1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2) On vehicles equipped with A/C, remove the electrical
cooling fan and shroud assembly from the radiator to allow room to
rotate the engine with a socket and ratchet using the vibration damper
bolt.
3) Scribe a mark on the distributor housing below the left
side (past) the number one spark plug wire post of the distributor cap for reassembly reference for No 1 cylinder firing position. IT NOTES TO MAKE THE MARK PAST THE NO 1 CYL
4) Remove the distributor cap.
5) Turn the engine in a clockwise direction until the rotor
is approaching the scribed mark on the distributor housing. Then slowly turn the engine until the timing mark on the crankshaft
vibration damper lines up with zero on the front cover timing scale. IM STARTING FROM SCRATCH, THIS IS ASSUMING ITS ALREADY ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE
See Fig. 24.
NOTE: The timing mark is located on the edge of the vibration
damper closest to the front cover.
Fig. 24: View of Crankshaft Vibration Damper Timing Marks
Courtesy of Chrysler Motors.
6) Align the trailing edge of the rotor blade with the mark
previously scribed on the distributor housing. See Fig. 25.
Fig. 25: Aligning Rotor & Distributor Cap for Removal
Courtesy of Chrysler Motors.
7) Remove the distributor hold-down bolt and clamp.
8) Remove the distributor from the engine.
Installation
1) If needed, use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the oil
pump gear shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o’clock
position. See Fig. 26. The oil pump shaft is located down in the distributor hole.
Fig. 26: Aligning Oil Pump Gear Shaft
Courtesy of Chrysler Motors.
2) Install the rotor.
3) Without engaging the distributor gear into the cam gear
and ensuring the distributor gasket is installed, position the
distributor into the hole in the engine block.
4) Visually line up the hold down ear of the distributor
housing with the hold down clamp hole. See Fig. 27.
Fig. 27: Installing Distributor
Courtesy of Chrysler Motors.
5) Turn the rotor to the 4 o’clock position. See Fig. 28.
Fig. 28: Installing & Aligning Rotor
Courtesy of Chrysler Motors.
6) Carefully slide the distributor into the block until it
seats, keeping the hold down ear aligned to the hole in the block.
7) The rotor should be in the 5 o’clock position with the
trailing edge of the rotor blade lined up with the mark previously scribed on the distributor housing (number one spark plug wire post location). TRAILING EDGE IS CONFUSING. THAT WOULD INDICATE TO ME THAT THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE ROTOR BLADE NEEDS TO BE LINED UP WITH THE MARK ON THE DISTRIB HOUSING. IF SO, THAT MEANS THAT THE ROTOR IS LINED UP PAST THE NO 1 CYL FIRING POST AND THAT THE LEFT SIDE OF THE ROTOR BLADE IS ALMOST ABOUT TO HIT THE NUMBER 5 POST.
8) install the distributor hold-down clamp bolt and tighten
to 9.5-14 Ft. Lbs. (13-19 N.m).
9) Install the distributor cap. Connect the distributor
electrical connector.
10) Install the electric cooling fan and shroud if
applicable.
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Sounds like all of them are misfiring. It's making sense that the ignition side could be causing the problem. Thus why I'm trying to see wtf I'm doing wrong if anything when I index this POS.Originally Posted by spittinimage
does it sound like its backfiring everytime that cylinder fires or is it random
Reading more, it sounds like a distributor can't be off 180 degrees on a jeep because the gear on the distributor has an odd number of teeth.
I'm looking at the FSM again and I'm also looking into something Chrysler put out in 1988, TSB 18-53-88.
Don't quite understand why you would need to cut a hole in the cap to see where the rotor is at.
:icon_redf ace:
Quote:
It's the answer...It has to be...The new distributor is an aftermarket Autozone part.Originally Posted by 93XJGreenMonster
TSB 18-53-88.
TSB 18-53-88 (Thank you Denver Library for making it easy to get a library card and use said library card to access ALLDATA automotive database, FROM HOME and not have to step outside of my house to do it.)
On July 25, 1988 Chrysler put out a Technical Service Bulletin, #18-53-88. In it is a procedure to index the timing by modifying the distributor.
Basically cutting off the fingers that the hold down bolt goes too and cutting a hole in the distributor cap allows you to align this **** right. I'm going to forgo the cutting the cap part and just use a marker.
You bring the crank to TDC on Cyl 1, put your modified distributor in facing 4 oclock. Once seated the rotor should be at 5 oclock, past the number 1 post by about a 16th of an inch. Clamp down the distributor with the hold down clamp and bolt. Start that mother****er up.
I'm so stoked.
I'm going to pull the valve cover to make damn sure I'm at TDC and to inspect there as well.
Quote:
TSB 18-53-88 (Thank you Denver Library for making it easy to get a library card and use said library card to access ALLDATA automotive database, FROM HOME and not have to step outside of my house to do it.)
On July 25, 1988 Chrysler put out a Technical Service Bulletin, #18-53-88. In it is a procedure to index the timing by modifying the distributor.
Basically cutting off the fingers that the hold down bolt goes too and cutting a hole in the distributor cap allows you to align this **** right. I'm going to forgo the cutting the cap part and just use a marker.
You bring the crank to TDC on Cyl 1, put your modified distributor in facing 4 oclock. Once seated the rotor should be at 5 oclock, past the number 1 post by about a 16th of an inch. Clamp down the distributor with the hold down clamp and bolt. Start that mother****er up.
I'm so stoked.
I'm going to pull the valve cover to make damn sure I'm at TDC and to inspect there as well.
IT WAS 18-53-88! The timing was just slightly off. Cut the fingers off the hold down bolt, ended up cutting a hole in a distributor cap afterall, lined it all up, put new cap on...It fired up and NO backfiring!Originally Posted by 93XJGreenMonster
It's the answer...It has to be...The new distributor is an aftermarket Autozone part.TSB 18-53-88 (Thank you Denver Library for making it easy to get a library card and use said library card to access ALLDATA automotive database, FROM HOME and not have to step outside of my house to do it.)
On July 25, 1988 Chrysler put out a Technical Service Bulletin, #18-53-88. In it is a procedure to index the timing by modifying the distributor.
Basically cutting off the fingers that the hold down bolt goes too and cutting a hole in the distributor cap allows you to align this **** right. I'm going to forgo the cutting the cap part and just use a marker.
You bring the crank to TDC on Cyl 1, put your modified distributor in facing 4 oclock. Once seated the rotor should be at 5 oclock, past the number 1 post by about a 16th of an inch. Clamp down the distributor with the hold down clamp and bolt. Start that mother****er up.
I'm so stoked.
I'm going to pull the valve cover to make damn sure I'm at TDC and to inspect there as well.
Now I have to clean up all the oil prints, and put everything back together.
Thank you to everyone who got me along in this project. From it being dead to the backfiring, and everything in between. You all were very helpful and I learned a lot!
BTW, the springs, valves, lifters all looked great and there wasn't hardly any gunk anywhere under the valve cover.
Member
good deal man i hoped it wasnt a hard part and it was not so thats good. sometimes the little things drive you insane huh.
Newbie
Quote:
TSB 18-53-88 (Thank you Denver Library for making it easy to get a library card and use said library card to access ALLDATA automotive database, FROM HOME and not have to step outside of my house to do it.)
On July 25, 1988 Chrysler put out a Technical Service Bulletin, #18-53-88. In it is a procedure to index the timing by modifying the distributor.
Basically cutting off the fingers that the hold down bolt goes too and cutting a hole in the distributor cap allows you to align this **** right. I'm going to forgo the cutting the cap part and just use a marker.
You bring the crank to TDC on Cyl 1, put your modified distributor in facing 4 oclock. Once seated the rotor should be at 5 oclock, past the number 1 post by about a 16th of an inch. Clamp down the distributor with the hold down clamp and bolt. Start that mother****er up.
I'm so stoked.
I'm going to pull the valve cover to make damn sure I'm at TDC and to inspect there as well.
Im curious how did you access ALLDATA with your Denver library card? I have a Denver library card. Please let me know how you did it, thanks!Originally Posted by 93XJGreenMonster
It's the answer...It has to be...The new distributor is an aftermarket Autozone part.TSB 18-53-88 (Thank you Denver Library for making it easy to get a library card and use said library card to access ALLDATA automotive database, FROM HOME and not have to step outside of my house to do it.)
On July 25, 1988 Chrysler put out a Technical Service Bulletin, #18-53-88. In it is a procedure to index the timing by modifying the distributor.
Basically cutting off the fingers that the hold down bolt goes too and cutting a hole in the distributor cap allows you to align this **** right. I'm going to forgo the cutting the cap part and just use a marker.
You bring the crank to TDC on Cyl 1, put your modified distributor in facing 4 oclock. Once seated the rotor should be at 5 oclock, past the number 1 post by about a 16th of an inch. Clamp down the distributor with the hold down clamp and bolt. Start that mother****er up.
I'm so stoked.
I'm going to pull the valve cover to make damn sure I'm at TDC and to inspect there as well.