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Master or Slave Cylinder going out????

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Old May 14, 2009 | 12:22 AM
  #16  
mike37's Avatar
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From: Paso Robles Ca
Year: 1991
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you have air in the line
if it was something other than air you would be loosing fluid
and pumping the peddle would not help

I'm not that familiar with the BA10-5 transmission do you need to drop the trany to bleed the slave
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Old May 14, 2009 | 01:27 AM
  #17  
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From: Prescott, AZ
Year: 1996
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Originally Posted by stlsean
Do you know of any other jeep forums for grown-ups that actually know how to turn a wrench?
Believe it or not I think that this is the best XJ forum around. I have had a lot of my questions answered here, sorry you had such a bad experience. But honestly the people in this forum seem to know a lot more than anyone on NAXJA.
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Old May 14, 2009 | 01:28 AM
  #18  
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From: Prescott, AZ
Year: 1996
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Originally Posted by stlsean
Sounds like I may just drop the tranny again. It's not that big of a deal and I am just hitting 200,000 miles so I don't want to spend too much cash on a change over. Thanks for the reply.
take good care of it and it will go to 300,000 no prob...
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Old May 14, 2009 | 10:57 AM
  #19  
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From: Paso Robles Ca
Year: 1991
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for all of you having problems bleeding your clutch


look at your system
if you have the line coming of the top of the master cylinder you will have a very hard time bleeding it

air will get trapped in the loop

I know no one has a power bleeder so
you gotta do it the messy way

lets start with trying it in the jeep you will need help
have your help put his or here foot on the clutch peddle
this is kinda like bleeding normally but at the connection
unscrew the line from the master not all the was just loosen it until you get air and fluid
you my want to have something to keep the fluid from ruining everywhere

if this method dose not work or you want to try it first its cleaner
unbolt the master from the fire wall
keep the lines connected
be sure to have fluid in the master
tip the master up until the line has a little downward angle
put pressure on the plunger and open the bleeder on the slave just like your standard bleed but no loops for the air to get trapped in

this should fix you air problem
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Old May 14, 2009 | 11:05 AM
  #20  
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From: Paso Robles Ca
Year: 1991
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Originally Posted by stlsean
Dan, thanks for the input and help. You are one of the few people on here that seems to really know something. It must be a bunch of kids with nothing better to do. Someone starts a thread about a jeep racing another car and there's dozens of posts. Someone has a real question and hardly nothing. Do you know of any other jeep forums for grown-ups that actually know how to turn a wrench?

Again thanks for your time and help. It is appreciated.
you come asking for help then you put down the forum cus you did not get an answer right away

and you down others about there mechanical capability's when you cant even fix your own simple hydraulic problem
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Old May 14, 2009 | 02:33 PM
  #21  
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From: Norco CA.
Year: 1991 XJ SPORT 2 DR.
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 600 HP
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Originally Posted by mike37
you come asking for help then you put down the forum cus you did not get an answer right away

and you down others about there mechanical capability's when you cant even fix your own simple hydraulic problem

X2
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Old May 14, 2009 | 10:07 PM
  #22  
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I have bled the lines and checked for leaks but can't find any... fluid is staying full in the master.

Original question was if anyone else had the problem and if the fix was replacing the master or slave cylinder. I have no problem doing either but don't want to spend the time or cash if anyone else had the problem and fixed it by replacing one or the other.

My jeep has an AX-15 transmission and has a bleeder valve coming off the slave. I may just start with all new fluid and re-bleed before changing out the slave.

Didn't mean any disrespect, just wasn't getting any posts and was having a bad day. My apologies.
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Old May 15, 2009 | 12:14 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by mark's91-XJ
i have the same set up as you, mine was doing that same thing, loosing
clutch disengagement. my clutch and slave are brand new so i crossed that out, so i replaced the master and bled the fu** out of it, about a beer can full, till the air was gone. seems to be fine now.
note make sure the lines are tight at the slave.

Good information and thanks..... I think I will start here.
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Old May 17, 2009 | 09:17 PM
  #24  
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From: Paso Robles Ca
Year: 1991
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Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by stlsean
I have bled the lines and checked for leaks but can't find any... fluid is staying full in the master.

Original question was if anyone else had the problem and if the fix was replacing the master or slave cylinder. I have no problem doing either but don't want to spend the time or cash if anyone else had the problem and fixed it by replacing one or the other.

My jeep has an AX-15 transmission and has a bleeder valve coming off the slave. I may just start with all new fluid and re-bleed before changing out the slave.

Didn't mean any disrespect, just wasn't getting any posts and was having a bad day. My apologies.
you have air trapped follow the bleed info I posted and you will be working properly
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Old May 17, 2009 | 10:34 PM
  #25  
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Bled again... no help. Put on a new master cylinder and bled again and is working GREAT now!!! Mark hit the nail on the head. Thanks to everyone who posted.
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Old May 17, 2009 | 11:39 PM
  #26  
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From: Norco CA.
Year: 1991 XJ SPORT 2 DR.
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 600 HP
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Originally Posted by stlsean
Bled again... no help. Put on a new master cylinder and bled again and is working GREAT now!!! Mark hit the nail on the head. Thanks to everyone who posted.
I'm glad we could help, all that matters is you got it fixed theirs a lot of smart guys on here
that work on their jeeps and try to help.

Last edited by mark's91-XJ; May 17, 2009 at 11:59 PM.
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Old May 18, 2009 | 12:13 PM
  #27  
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From: Paso Robles Ca
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by stlsean
Bled again... no help. Put on a new master cylinder and bled again and is working GREAT now!!! Mark hit the nail on the head. Thanks to everyone who posted.

ouch!
hope they are cheaper around your neck of the woods
100+ bucks around here
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Old May 18, 2009 | 08:48 PM
  #28  
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Was $100 at the place I buy all of my parts from but found one for $52 and they did a price match.... it wasn't plastic either like the oem, which I though was kind of cool.... I think it's cast aluminum.
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Old May 19, 2009 | 03:17 AM
  #29  
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Year: 1996
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Originally Posted by stlsean
it wasn't plastic either like the oem, which I though was kind of cool.... I think it's cast aluminum.
no kidding? I wish I had one, I just replaced mine with an oem and it lookeds cheaper and less stable than my original.
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