KJamesJR

How do you get the number 1 bolt in on a apn style header. I have tried everything...

mdnov

What year is your Jeep?

mdnov

And what is your header brand?

Programbo

Is that the second bold from the back on the bottom? Long story short in all my times getting intakes off of XJs in junkyards I only had a problem once and that was on one with after market exhaust on it. Because of the odd curve of the "header" you simply could not go straight in on it with ANY tool I had. Had to use a flat ratchet wrench to get in there on that bolt. Not saying that is your problem but it sounds like what I ran in to.

jeep3200

On my 99 I followed the APN directions to use the studs 6 and 7 along with bolt 3 to hold the exauhst in place, Then install bolts 1 and 2 a thread before placing the intake onto these bolts. Then I used bolts 8 and 10 to keep it in place.

One recommendation is to triple check that the intake is properly on the alignment pins. I thought I did and when I was tightening the bolts I heard a crack and the motor ran away on start due to the huge vacuum leak.

It is much easier with the fuel rail, injectors and throttle body off the intake.

I have a set of 3/8 wobble extensions and regular extensions that I used in various combinations to get the bolts torqued.

The stud by the firewall was the one I had real trouble to get torqued.

KJamesJR

Sorry about the no reply. I got the manifold in.

The XJ is a 98, the manifold is the ATP seen on RockAuto, or Amazon. Same design as the APN.

The intake manifold was tough to just pull right off. Basically I just pushed down on it, snapped the dowel brackets, and was able to pull it out. I'm fine with having the dowel holes broken, it doesn't seem to effect overall stability after it's bolted back in.

The number 1 bolt, in the torque rotation, was THE hardest to get to. I had to pull everything apart again, hand screw all the bottom bolts in, before setting the intake down between them. I would suggest this method.

Forget trying to get a socket in there. The only way to tighten that bolt down is to slide your hand, whilst holding a 14mm wrench, between the block, and the back of the manifold, and do a 1/4 turn at a time. Tighten it until it stops, then do another turn. Which should bring you around 24lbs.

In fact, most of these bolts you simply cant get at with a torque wrench or u-joint. Only the bolts on the topside. The best you can do is estimate.

All said an done... If I had to do it again, I think I could do it in just a few hours. Not a day and a half.

I was careful not to fall victim of the placebo effect. My off the line torque, increased only slightly. However my mid ranged horsepower went up significantly. Its quieter do to the lack of manifold cracks, though I'm still getting a jolt on my idle. I think I've ruled out a vacuum leak. I think it's probably due to the CPS I put in, defective.

I'd like to get a little more off-the-line power. Perhaps a K&N drop in filter, or bored out TB? I'm open to suggestions on this.

KJamesJR

Also as to not bring up my other thread...

My fuel line required a disconnect tool. Bought at AutoZone for $7.99. Basically I had to shove it down into the mating connectors, then pull REALLY ****IN HARD to get the fuel line to disconnect.

I did lose one part during this entire process... The pressure release cap.