So I've been fighting to get the rear ends lug nuts off for days. Finally caved and went to the local shop. They got 9 out of 10 of them off with the impact gun. The last one won't budge. Rusted on good. I'm at a loss. I need the damn thing off. I've been spraying them daily for the past two weeks with PB but I guess it can only do so much. Person at the shop said it may snap the stud if they try to force it off. Not looking to replace the stud if I dont have to.

Anyone got any ideas to get it to loosen off at all? I've only got a crappy 12 point socket and breaker bar I've been working with. I do have a mep gas tourch if I need to heat it to break it free if that would work. Help is appreciated.

 

DO NOT put heat to it with the valve core still in the tire may blow up. Break it off and put a new one in.

 

Try (carefully) heating it up...JUST the lugnut. You'll want to be careful with the tire on there. Also try tightening it, and then see if you can crack it free. If not, you might just have to bust it off. A new wheel stud is only a couple bucks and not that hard to install.

 

Well the nut is stuck on damn good. No way is it coming off any easy way. If I have to break the stud to get it removed, what's the best way to break it without ruining my rim?

 

Get a deep well 6 point 3/4" impact socket-1/2" drive, and a 1/2" breaker bar with a 4'-6' piece of pipe on it. Slowly and evenly apply force on the pipe to see if it will break the nut loose, or snap it off. If you try to get it off using a pumping motion it's sure to break the stud.

If you have Aluminum and/or painted rims I wouldn't put a flame to the nut.

Edit: When going back on with new nuts do not use anti-seize compound on the studs, just wire wheel the rust off of the threads. Torque to 100-115 ft./lbs. Retorque after driving the Heep around the block.

 

^This.

Just get mad at it.

 

Now the fun part. The nut is a 19mm. I used my 19 on it but the socket only got so far on it because of corrosion. So the exterior of the nut is all mangled. A 20mm is too loose on it and a 19 won't get all the way on it. Guess I have to sacrifice one of the 19mm sockets and just line it up and beat it on with a hammer. Then see if I can break it off.

 

The impact gun is the best method. The hammering does tend to break rust. Allowing the impact gun to run for a couple of minutes is typical.

If you decide to remove it more destructively, one technique that I like is cutting the nut in two with a cutoff wheel on a Dremel moto-tool. I cut parallel to the length of the bolt, trying not to cut the wheel itself too much.

 

I had a similar problem with my dodge, but actually it was the stock crap lug nut that had been tightened too tight by whoever last changed the tire.. Cost $50 to have the stud drilled out.

 

Tried an impact gun. It didnt budge. Tried my breaker bar with a 4ft steel pipe on it. Moved the jeep but not the nut. Might have to use a dremel and cut the screwed up part of the nut off so I can get a socket back on it to have something to bite into.

 

Use a hacksaw to remove the tip of the lug nut. Or simply to cut into the metal. If it's a factory lug nut the skin will cut easily. That will allow you to spray PB Blaster on the actual threads from the top. Spraying the stud with the lug nut on doesn't allow the lube to penetrate to the threads ... unless the Jeep is lying on the side.

 

6 point 1/2 impact socket with a good breaker bar with a long pipe extension has always been good to me.
Since you said all it does is move the whole vehicle, chock the wheels, engaged the e brake. Do all this with the tire on the ground.

 

Agreed

 

Yeah totally forgot to chock the wheels. Gonna do that. Might have to cut the cap of the lug nut too to get to the actual nut. There were two in the front that put up a fight and the actual covers of the nuts came right off. So maybe this one will be the same.

 

When the Crome cover comes off you have to now use an 18mm 6 point socket otherwise it will round off with a 3/4 or 19 and you'll really be in trouble.