lower door skins and other rust gremlins
#1
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 high output
lower door skins and other rust gremlins
this is my first attempt at any kind of body work
I just got my new Logan's metal bumper and decided I would paint it black. to match it, I wanted to bed line the lower doors etc.
I new there would be some rust but when i pulled off the trim... this was alot worse than I thought it would be.
I used a 4 1/2 cut off wheel on a angle grinder to cut out the rust
and pulled the bottom lip off the door
found some galv sheet metal at my work and made up a panel with the cut off wheel. (I now know to use non galv in the future if I want it welded)
with the help of my friend I held the panel in place and he marked it on the back side for the folds
bent it up and did a test fit
I pulled the panel back off and after grinding away any loose stuff, primed with rusty metal primer
.
followed up with black rust stop paint
while that was drying i took the rear flare off to check out some other areas that needed some attention
grinding and more rusty primer.
once it was dry I used seam sealer, pop rivets along the top, and metal epoxy for adhesive to attach the panel.
next I pulled off the rest of the door trim and cleaned off the backing goo
with brake cleaner goo gone and a rag.
still not sure what I want to do about the rear quarter panel. either repair it or try and cut and fold( not crazy about the cut fold look)
this is as far as I got as of today
looks like crap right now but after I bed line it tomorrow it should look good.
I just got my new Logan's metal bumper and decided I would paint it black. to match it, I wanted to bed line the lower doors etc.
I new there would be some rust but when i pulled off the trim... this was alot worse than I thought it would be.
I used a 4 1/2 cut off wheel on a angle grinder to cut out the rust
and pulled the bottom lip off the door
found some galv sheet metal at my work and made up a panel with the cut off wheel. (I now know to use non galv in the future if I want it welded)
with the help of my friend I held the panel in place and he marked it on the back side for the folds
bent it up and did a test fit
I pulled the panel back off and after grinding away any loose stuff, primed with rusty metal primer
.
followed up with black rust stop paint
while that was drying i took the rear flare off to check out some other areas that needed some attention
grinding and more rusty primer.
once it was dry I used seam sealer, pop rivets along the top, and metal epoxy for adhesive to attach the panel.
next I pulled off the rest of the door trim and cleaned off the backing goo
with brake cleaner goo gone and a rag.
still not sure what I want to do about the rear quarter panel. either repair it or try and cut and fold( not crazy about the cut fold look)
this is as far as I got as of today
looks like crap right now but after I bed line it tomorrow it should look good.
Last edited by xjheep92; 07-14-2011 at 11:02 PM.
#5
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L/242 CID I-6 High Output MFI
Frakin' awesome, man! I want to see it when it's done. Been wanting to do some body armor along the bottom edges of my Heep. Time to start checking for cancer!
#6
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 high output
*update
yesterday I started on the rear quarter panel.
grinded it down inside and out
primed
made up another panel
primed
patched the a hole in the wheel well from the inside.
attached with panel adhesive and pop rivets and sprayed over with rubber wheel well spray sorry no pic but that crap took forever to dry..
took a break and tested out my new roof rack lol
i attached the panel with metal epoxy pop rivets and seam sealer. pop rivets are all hidden.
grinded it down inside and out
primed
made up another panel
primed
patched the a hole in the wheel well from the inside.
attached with panel adhesive and pop rivets and sprayed over with rubber wheel well spray sorry no pic but that crap took forever to dry..
took a break and tested out my new roof rack lol
i attached the panel with metal epoxy pop rivets and seam sealer. pop rivets are all hidden.
#7
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 high output
today I bedlined
I used rustoleum bed coating
think I ended up with 5 or six coats. its real thick at this point.
i forgot to stir up the liner for the first coat so it was real runny . but once I stirred it up properly the second coat went on much better lol
all done! came out pretty good.... theres one spot by the pass front door i want to sand and touch up once its fully dry
I used rustoleum bed coating
think I ended up with 5 or six coats. its real thick at this point.
i forgot to stir up the liner for the first coat so it was real runny . but once I stirred it up properly the second coat went on much better lol
all done! came out pretty good.... theres one spot by the pass front door i want to sand and touch up once its fully dry
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#8
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Very nice work and the pictures make this a wonderful post. The cold approach (no welding) does have an advantage. Welding would have just burned off all your prime and paint work on the inside of the door and rust would start again. Hey you could test this. Weld repair the drivers side and update us in about ten years so we can compare.
#9
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 high output
thanks! yea I didn't really think about the advantages of no welding as it wasn't an option for me right now. I really want to get a welder and learn how to weld.
I keep trying to convince my boss to get one for the park I work at. I told him I could be a "more valuable employee", but he knows I really just want to build stuff for my jeep lol
I keep trying to convince my boss to get one for the park I work at. I told him I could be a "more valuable employee", but he knows I really just want to build stuff for my jeep lol
#10
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Year: My Jeep is a GMC
120 V, $130, it's great for the light stuff (and you can MIG later if you want):
http://www.tractorsupply.com/welding...welder-1128762
http://www.tractorsupply.com/welding...welder-1128762
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