Lower Balljoint
#1
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Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Lower Balljoint
Hey guys,
I have a 98 2dr that's at stock ride height that I use as a daily driver. I've had all of the ball joints, tie rod ends, track bar, and shocks replaced but I'm still getting a vibration on the highway at around 65mph. I've also replaced the rims and tires to rule that out. Just recently I've started hearing an occasional "POP" when turning left or right, and the U-joints also look fine. I attached a picture of my lower ball joint on the driver's side where the sound seems to be coming from. I think I see a space between the ball joint and the knuckle that shouldn't be there, but what do I know. All of the others look fine.
Thanks for your input!
I have a 98 2dr that's at stock ride height that I use as a daily driver. I've had all of the ball joints, tie rod ends, track bar, and shocks replaced but I'm still getting a vibration on the highway at around 65mph. I've also replaced the rims and tires to rule that out. Just recently I've started hearing an occasional "POP" when turning left or right, and the U-joints also look fine. I attached a picture of my lower ball joint on the driver's side where the sound seems to be coming from. I think I see a space between the ball joint and the knuckle that shouldn't be there, but what do I know. All of the others look fine.
Thanks for your input!
#4
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Year: 1995 &2000
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Engine: 4.0
What balljoints you use? That popping is more likely the trackbar frame mount check the bolts and see if you can tighten them. If you used Cheap balljoints they will have a gap cause there longer. Moog or spicer is closer to factory style.
#6
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
I have some new lower ball joints for sale! The autozone ones. Pair of them for $30 shipped!! Pm me if you're interested I'll send youths link to the thread
#7
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
I just replaced my ball joints with cheap ball joints. If the castle nuts where torqued down correctly there shouldn't be a gap between the ball joints and the knuckle.
However, the cheap upper ball joint IS too long. Therefore in order to fit the pin in the castle nut, the nut has to be too loose. My guess is, whoever put these on tightened the nut enough to fit the castle instead of tightening to specifications.
The solution I found to fix this is to add a couple of washers. I forget exactly which washers I used...I think there were 1/2" machine spacers or something like that. I got them from the hardware store. They also had the pin I needed to replace the one I pulled off to put the spacers in.
I don't remember the exact details off hand.
However, the cheap upper ball joint IS too long. Therefore in order to fit the pin in the castle nut, the nut has to be too loose. My guess is, whoever put these on tightened the nut enough to fit the castle instead of tightening to specifications.
The solution I found to fix this is to add a couple of washers. I forget exactly which washers I used...I think there were 1/2" machine spacers or something like that. I got them from the hardware store. They also had the pin I needed to replace the one I pulled off to put the spacers in.
I don't remember the exact details off hand.
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#9
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 straight 6
Im not sure if i have the same problem or not. But when ever i turn right and speed up fast it makes this nasty rattle/clicking noise.
#10
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
I think the nuts are supposed to be 75 ft-lbs and the washer/spacers I used were two 1/16th inch with a 1/2 inch inner diameter and an outer diameter of about 7/8 inch. I don't know what size pins I used to replace the ones I took out.
#11
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Make sure your transfer case fluid is at the proper level. It might be something else like a u-joint or rotor, or maybe even a balljoint. I can't really tell you what it is, but the transfer case fluid is really easy to check.
#13
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Year: 2000
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Originally Posted by fragmental
Make sure your transfer case fluid is at the proper level. It might be something else like a u-joint or rotor, or maybe even a balljoint. I can't really tell you what it is, but the transfer case fluid is really easy to check.
#14
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Year: 1992
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The upper ball joint was tapered, so if I didn't have it tight enough it would have been loose, which could have caused vibration and a popping noise. The u-joint could also cause vibration though.
Last edited by fragmental; 08-21-2012 at 04:27 PM.
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