Low oil pressure at idle HELP!
well I do know that 20-50 weight oil will give you more oil pressure I had a similar issue when I first bought my Jeep believe it or not I ran some of the 20-50 weight oil through it and started to of course get more oil pressure the check gages light never came on again at idle so I drop down to 1040 never seen that thing since maybe the heavy weight oil on block some crud give it a shot what do you got to lose at this point
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,734
Likes: 12
Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
I finally got around to pulling the valve cover off the engine. Sure enough there is a small crack between cylinder 3 and 4 exhaust port. Coolant is coming out and running down the push rod hole. I am going to pressure test the cooing system to try and pin point exactly where coolant is seeping out of. On another note is 10-12 psi a good range to pressurize the system?
I guess you're still in denial.
This thing is going to pressure test your bank account.
Or sell it. With disclosure.
Your first loss is the cheapest.
Last edited by Firestorm500; May 13, 2015 at 07:08 PM.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 281
Likes: 2
From: Garden Prairie
Year: 2000, (1957 Willys)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Heavy weight oil will NOT make your oil pressure problem better. Your pressure is generated through your bearings. Heavy weight oil will just slow lubrcation on start up.
I had this exact issue and just finished a complete rebuild.
There is no easy. Once the silicates from the coolant ate away your bearings the deal was done.
Quite honestly, the end will come when one of the bearings doesn't get enough oil to cool itself, it will spin and that will be that.
You can run a thinner synthetic for now . That ensure faster top end lube on start up and better durability when things get hot.
Total rebuild cost me just over 1200. 300 for the machine shop. 700 for the master kit from perfect engine, 150 for a new coil (went with the viper coil), and a few bucks here and there for various other things. I replaced the cam and crank sensors as well. My head has 80,000 miles on it and is a clearwater replacement for the 0331.
So all in all, new radiator, carry the 1, a little over 1500.
Best of luck. PM me if you have any more questions.
I had this exact issue and just finished a complete rebuild.
There is no easy. Once the silicates from the coolant ate away your bearings the deal was done.
Quite honestly, the end will come when one of the bearings doesn't get enough oil to cool itself, it will spin and that will be that.
You can run a thinner synthetic for now . That ensure faster top end lube on start up and better durability when things get hot.
Total rebuild cost me just over 1200. 300 for the machine shop. 700 for the master kit from perfect engine, 150 for a new coil (went with the viper coil), and a few bucks here and there for various other things. I replaced the cam and crank sensors as well. My head has 80,000 miles on it and is a clearwater replacement for the 0331.
So all in all, new radiator, carry the 1, a little over 1500.
Best of luck. PM me if you have any more questions.
Why do you care dude. You live on this forum commenting on everything. Just being an *******. When was the last time you picked up a wrench?
Originally Posted by Moncheche;3087806[B
][/B]Heavy weight oil will NOT make your oil pressure problem better. Your pressure is generated through your bearings. Heavy weight oil will just slow lubrcation on start up.
I had this exact issue and just finished a complete rebuild.
There is no easy. Once the silicates from the coolant ate away your bearings the deal was done.
Quite honestly, the end will come when one of the bearings doesn't get enough oil to cool itself, it will spin and that will be that.
You can run a thinner synthetic for now . That ensure faster top end lube on start up and better durability when things get hot.
Total rebuild cost me just over 1200. 300 for the machine shop. 700 for the master kit from perfect engine, 150 for a new coil (went with the viper coil), and a few bucks here and there for various other things. I replaced the cam and crank sensors as well. My head has 80,000 miles on it and is a clearwater replacement for the 0331.
So all in all, new radiator, carry the 1, a little over 1500.
Best of luck. PM me if you have any more questions.
I had this exact issue and just finished a complete rebuild.
There is no easy. Once the silicates from the coolant ate away your bearings the deal was done.
Quite honestly, the end will come when one of the bearings doesn't get enough oil to cool itself, it will spin and that will be that.
You can run a thinner synthetic for now . That ensure faster top end lube on start up and better durability when things get hot.
Total rebuild cost me just over 1200. 300 for the machine shop. 700 for the master kit from perfect engine, 150 for a new coil (went with the viper coil), and a few bucks here and there for various other things. I replaced the cam and crank sensors as well. My head has 80,000 miles on it and is a clearwater replacement for the 0331.
So all in all, new radiator, carry the 1, a little over 1500.
Best of luck. PM me if you have any more questions.
x2^^^Moncheche. Oil pressure is NOT a function of determining adequate lubrication. Oil pressure represents the amount of restriction in the bearings. Worn bearings that cause low oil pressure actually receive more oil flow!
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,734
Likes: 12
Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
I understand that your denial and lashing out in anger is part of the 5 stages of the grieving process so I am not offended at your personal remarks.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 281
Likes: 2
From: Garden Prairie
Year: 2000, (1957 Willys)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Try this. Lay on your back with a mouthful of water. Spit it out straight up. Now try it with syrup. The pressure you need/feel to propel the syrup is greater but you cannot produce the same results that you can with the water. The viscosity differences make this impossible.
There are only two ways to fix the pressure problem while maintaining proper flow. 1. Have the pump work harder. (Not an option at idle) 2. Change the size of the orifice being pumped through. This means new bearings.
So the owner has to decide which is more important. Getting oil to the top end more quickly at start up which will provide for cooling and lubrication, or getting the gauge to read numbers that make him feel good.
Ideally, if we could have an oil flow gauge that measured the amount of oil flowing from the farthest journals, we would have some solid information!
Until then I will bank on faster start up lube. The oil debate moves on.
Heavier oil quiets (temporarily) noisy bearings and give the driver a good feeling about pressure because the gauge shows more pressure. Oil flow is not improved, especially at the farthest end of the lube chain.
Try this. Lay on your back with a mouthful of water. Spit it out straight up. Now try it with syrup. The pressure you need/feel to propel the syrup is greater but you cannot produce the same results that you can with the water. The viscosity differences make this impossible.
There are only two ways to fix the pressure problem while maintaining proper flow. 1. Have the pump work harder. (Not an option at idle) 2. Change the size of the orifice being pumped through. This means new bearings.
So the owner has to decide which is more important. Getting oil to the top end more quickly at start up which will provide for cooling and lubrication, or getting the gauge to read numbers that make him feel good.
Ideally, if we could have an oil flow gauge that measured the amount of oil flowing from the farthest journals, we would have some solid information!
Until then I will bank on faster start up lube. The oil debate moves on.
Try this. Lay on your back with a mouthful of water. Spit it out straight up. Now try it with syrup. The pressure you need/feel to propel the syrup is greater but you cannot produce the same results that you can with the water. The viscosity differences make this impossible.
There are only two ways to fix the pressure problem while maintaining proper flow. 1. Have the pump work harder. (Not an option at idle) 2. Change the size of the orifice being pumped through. This means new bearings.
So the owner has to decide which is more important. Getting oil to the top end more quickly at start up which will provide for cooling and lubrication, or getting the gauge to read numbers that make him feel good.
Ideally, if we could have an oil flow gauge that measured the amount of oil flowing from the farthest journals, we would have some solid information!
Until then I will bank on faster start up lube. The oil debate moves on.

It is refreshing to hear from someone who actually understands the dynamics of lubrication. Increasing oil pressure is a psych thing...it does nothing to improve lubrication. It only takes 1/2 psi to lift oil to rockers...everything else is downhill from there. Factory spec of 13psi at 650 rpm is a benchmark for engine wear....not lube performance.
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