The bottom end needs to be replaced to? I was hoping to get away with shaping a new head on there and calling it a day. If that is truly the case I am f*****. Iv only had this truck for 3 days... and I live in an apartment complex and can not pull an engine in the parking lot.

 

You might try removing the elbow that the oil pressure sending unit connects to and making sure it is clean. Some people even connect a hose to it and rev the engine to clear it out just make sure you don't run it out of oil. If after that you still have 0 psi, the vast majority of the time on 2000-20001 XJ's it is prolonged running with a cracked head and now the bearings are shot. The most economical solutions are to replace the engine or sell the vehicle.

 

I am no expert but I know my way around most engines. I am a locomotive mechanic by trade. But like I said in the beginning of the thread I have 0 experience with this engine. I have never opened the hood of a jeep until 4 days ago. I do not have the means to do a rebuild like that where I live. I am going to have to roll the dice and just swap the heads. I don't know what else to do. I have to get back and forth to work. I wish I researched this truck better before I bought it. But everything sounds so good I was not suspect. Thanks for everyone's help.

 

Of I do put a new engine in what should I go with? I can probably get a junkyard engine and put a new head (without the casting problem) on that? Thoughts?

 

This is the head that the have on the Clearwater site. Any modification required? Now next question. What engine should I put in on? Should I get one out of a 2000 cherokee?

 

As far as I know no modification is needed (basically it is the same as the factory head, but a thicker/better casting). I believe all 91-01 XJ blocks are compatible, as are 93-98 ZJ (Grand Cherokee) blocks (physically, you may need to change out sensors, etc. especially on 96 and older). As long as the block (and rotating assembly) is in good shape, year shouldn't really matter (obviously newer will generally mean lower mileage). 00-01 blocks are always a bit of a risk and damage from a cracked head is a possibility, so you may be better off with a 99 or older block. A 97-99 complete engine and the Viper coil swap (or fab'ing up a coil mount) is also a decent option and should save some money.


Note: If you live some place with strict emissions inspection requirements (such as California) using an older block/engine could be an issue (California and some other states have a requirement that the engine must be the same year as the vehicle or newer).

 

Well I live in Connecticut which is just as bad with emissions and law surrounding them.

 

Did you get this from a dealer?


Is there a "lemon law" in CT ?

 

hey harrisburg! That is all

 

No private owner and he thinks I am full of it because he doesn't believe that the truck would still run with a cracked head.

 

Well, the 97-99 are similar and don't have the wonky heads.

 

They can definitely still run with a cracked head (and will for quite a while until the bearings fail completely and it throws a rod), heck the 4.0L I6 has been known to run with a rod through the block, blown out cylinders, etc.

 

Definitely don't just throw on a new head. If it really has no oil pressure at idle, you need to do an engine swap. If the body is rusty, then it probably wouldn't be worth going through the effort.

 

It's not a roll of the dice. If you just replace the head, you will still have oil pressure issues. That gamble is loaded against you.

I wouldn't do any work on this truck. There's no way the guy didn't know it had a problem when he sold it to you. I would return it. If the guy won't take the truck back and return your money, I would suggest talking with a lawyer about taking him to court. That doesn't help you in the short run, but neither does keeping and trying to drive a truck with bad bearings. A call from a lawyer may be enough to get the guy to take the truck back, just to avoid the hassle of facing you in court.

If you really want to keep it and deal with the engine swap, find a small local shop with good reviews online to do the swap for you. Unfortunately that's part of the cost of living in an apartment. Been there myself.

 

I guess I pretty well said it all in post #13.

If you bought the Jeep "AS IS" from a private individual, you would have no legal recourse in my state. There is no lemon law or arbitration on a 15 year old vehicle anywhere to my knowledge. Unless you specifically have a legal contract specifically stating what is covered under a warranty, you own a Jeep with a wasted engine.

The ancient Latins had a saying: Caveat Emptor. That means "buyer beware". I know this is not a comfort now, but you or anyone else must do your due diligence before buying something used. The seller is not obligated to disclose anything to you voluntarily.

If you can't fix the Jeep due to your location, funds, knowledge, tools, or time then you need to get rid of it now. You will probably take a loss. But you will have learned a painful lesson.

In my area, a 15 year old Jeep like yours with 4 X 4, not rusty or wrecked, but with a bad engine might sell for $1000 maximum to someone with money looking for a project. At this point, it's basically a parts car. If it was a Wrangler, it would be easier to sell and bring more, even like it is.