apac020

Hi folks, I've been lurking here for a few months while working my "training jeep" - an old, rusted cherokee that I've been messing around with in my spare time.

I recently decided it wasn't worth any more time/$$ put into the original, and started looking for a good replacement. I found a '94 cherokee in good condition, and just went and checked it out.

The vehicle looked great. Original white paint with no rust, no dents. Very little rust on undercarriage (floor pans had zero). 180K miles, clean engine bay, unknown 4" lift, rock sliders, t-case skid plate, 31x10.5 tires with ~75% tread. Previous owner was friend of seller and owned (supposedly well taken care of) jeep for 10 years. Was going to pay $2400 - for Colorado I thought that was a pretty good price for a clean xj.

However, there were a few issues that came up. The most significant was when we put it into 4WD there was a noticeable, repeating "clunk-clunk-clunk" when accelerating. Perhaps one clunk every 1 second, maybe a little faster - that's going very slowly in 4H and 4L. This is only a 4WD issue, I drove it around in 2WD for 15 minutes and everything felt great. Coasting in 4WD also had no issue, but the clunk was immediately noticeable when my foot went back on the gas. The sound was not noticeable outside the vehicle, but very noticeable sitting in the front seat.

The seller was unaware of this problem. He's an army vet and bought the jeep last february from a friend, and took it wheeling a couple times back then without any issues. He then got deployed overseas and has only been back for a month. So, the jeep sat for maybe 6 months and I assume he hadn't tried 4WD since getting back.

Any ideas?

I did notice the t-case rear output seal is leaking. The front might have been, too. Would any moving parts clunk if the t-case had no tranny fluid? Would driving in 2WD with no t-case fluid cause any permanent damage to the case?

What is the apprx. cost for a shop to rebuilt the t-case? If that's the problem I'd like to know how much $$ to subtract from the vehicle price.

A couple other issues that came up. Any money-pit problems here?
- The check engine light appeared after driving a little, and stayed on. He said he had it coded as an O2 sensor at sears.
- The clutch pedal was rather "sticky". Pressure felt fine, but it didn't feel very smooth up and down, like trying to push a bicycle wheel while holding the brake calipers. The pedal would sort of move in little chunks when trying to let it out slowly.
- The "Part-Time" light would come on intermittently in 2WD. I looked that up and it seems like a trivial switch problem.

Any advice for the above, or the t-case issue, would be great .

Turbo X_J

Only driven on Sunday by a little old lady to church. Sorry, could not get past this part.

apac020

Haha. Hence the "supposedly", but there wasn't any evidence to the contrary.

Turbo X_J

Just sayin, I don't think many would spend for a lift and tires to just park it out in front of the house, or the drive around the mall. Ask the PO if he has any pictures, if he balks, well...

To answer your questions:
1. 1994 is OBD you can obtain codes using the ignition switch, no need for a scanner.
2. Probably easier to just scrounge a TC from the junkyard than playing with the old one.
3. Just assume it needs a clutch (complete i.e. disc, pressure plate, flywheel, throwout bearing, master cylinder & slave).

That way you have some cash wiggle room for the 50 other things that will pop up.

apac020

Fixed the OP for accuracy, I think I chose the wrong term. Sorry, I'm new here . What I'd been told was that, mechanically speaking, the original owner had put a lot of time into keeping it in good shape. Ex., new valve cover/gasket and new serp belt just prior to selling.

Your point #3- the clutch felt pretty good, other than the weird pedal resistance. Does that really indicate that the entire clutch is worn?

edit: Hey, I think I found the clutch problem! seems relatively easy- http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...d.php?t=282322

Lead Foot

Sounds like a bad CV in the front driveline. Not the t case. Check fluid for metallic residue. Turn the key on, off, on, off, on to pull the codes. The cel will flash. You will need to look up a code list. I don't know anything about common clutch problems. Possibly a linkage?

Turbo X_J

Not entirely, but if the disc is paper thin, and the cylinder is at the limit of its travel. I did not drive it and it's hard to properly diagnose over the interwebz. Best just to figure your expense high, unless they have documents that it's been serviced recently. About the rust did you lift the carpet, and pound around the underside with a rubber mallet? As you already know rust on a Jeep is standard equipment, not optional.
A good thing to check if a vehicle has been maintained: pop the cover on the brake master cylinder is the fluid clear?

Has it been for sale long? If so throw a number out there ($1500?) tell them your price is good until XX/XX/XXXX if you don't hear back then....

apac020

Yeah I was reading about the CV. Sounds like people say it's either the CV, or the front DS u-joints, or the t-case itself is bad. Just trying to feel for opinions here. If the front CV was bad, would the spinning front DS feel smooth when not engaged with the t-case?

BTW I haven't actually purchased this jeep yet. The seller said he'd take it to a friend at a jeep shop and try to figure out what is going on. I told him that was fine, or I'd assume the t-case needed a rebuild and offered him $2K. You guys are very helpful to BS-check anything he comes back with.

apac020

Lol yeah I know all about the rust. My "trainer" has a big hole on the driver's side floorboard. I checked out everything and it's pretty rust-free, which is not surprising if it's lived it's whole life in colorado. The downside is jeeps here are pretty expensive cause there are so many enthusiasts.

The guy put it up a few weeks ago for way too much ($4K). I offered $2K, he countered with $2500. I told him I'd only pay that if it were in exceptional shape. It was pretty good, except for these few issues.

rand4x4

I think with that many miles he is asking to much and with what you saw he should be at 1500 range. Offer him that and if he won't walk away and keep looking.

Lead Foot

Where are you located? Here in the northwest I can pick up an XJ in that shape and zero rust for 900. 950 is actually the most a paid for a jeep. That jeep had 150 thousand, a lown TCM fuse and just a dirty neutral safety switch.

apac020

http://denver.craigslist.org. Go ahead and check, but I haven't found anything around here like what you're talking about. Needs to be 91-99, 4 door, manual trans, good paint and overall condition.