lift and track bar help
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,914
Likes: 5
Year: 1987
Model: Comanche
Engine: I6 4.0L
ok guys i have been looking into a lift for the long time now and i think im very close to getting one. But before i go any further let me give you some back ground knowlage im 16 my jeep is my DD and first car I love the thing but im on an extremly tight budget. Anyways I have decided im going to go with a Rough Country lift (I know its not RE and i wish i could afford RE but it just aint gonna happen) anyways im considering both the 3 inch and the 4.5 inch lift. Now the 4.5 is a better deal and its on sale. But at 4.5" i know there are more serious issues such as driveline problems and whatnot I have a NP242 so i already expect to do a T-case drop Im also going with an AAL cause my leaf packs are'nt that bad and i dont know how long i'll have the jeep. Also in the directions for the 4.5" it says redrill the track bar hole that seems a little half *** to me but i dont have cash for a adj. trac bar so what do you guys think any input would be great
Oh and i want to run 31's or 32's depending on the lift
and BTW i got the longer brakelines taken care of
Thanks guys
Oh and i want to run 31's or 32's depending on the lift
and BTW i got the longer brakelines taken care of
Thanks guys
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,914
Likes: 5
Year: 1987
Model: Comanche
Engine: I6 4.0L
RC's track bar is only 100 so i may just get that also has anyone used this kit with the AAL and shackle i kinda want how it looks and how it preforms over time
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 0
From: Eugene, OR
Year: 01
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
when you buy aftermarket tracbars you have to redrill the hole to fit a bigger bolt. but as with the 3 vs. the 4.5, with a 4.5" lift, 31s might look weird. most people run 33s with 4.5" lift, and with 33s its usually recommended you regear, which costs quite a bit. it all depends on what kinda wheeling your gonna do with it. tcase drops IMO have always seemed like a step backwards. the whole point of lifting your jeep, is to give some of your jeeps vitals more clearance, like your tcase, and to lift your jeep, and lower your tcase seems to defeat the whole purpose. but thats just my .02, i think that if your gonna do it, do it right the first time. and having a 242 you dont have the option of an SYE, just a hack n tap.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
From: Belmont, NC
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
there isn't anything wrong with the move over and re drill move. I've done it on several jeeps and it holds up just fine. But, I personally like the adjustable ones since you can "fine tune" the centering of the axle under the jeep.
As far as AAL setups, they seem to be stiffer than lift packs. Atleast the ones i've seen were.
Look at www.rustysoffroad.com and price thier lift parts before ordering. I love my rusty's parts and they were very competitive on price back when i bought my lift.
As far as AAL setups, they seem to be stiffer than lift packs. Atleast the ones i've seen were.
Look at www.rustysoffroad.com and price thier lift parts before ordering. I love my rusty's parts and they were very competitive on price back when i bought my lift.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,735
Likes: 1
From: Metro Denver, CO
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
If you're on a really tight budget, there's this option: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...udget_Lift.htm
I've heard about some people going this way, and they all like the result. As for the trackbar, you can just redrill it on the lower end and use the stock track bar.
I'm planning on doing this one myself eventually.
I've heard about some people going this way, and they all like the result. As for the trackbar, you can just redrill it on the lower end and use the stock track bar.
I'm planning on doing this one myself eventually.
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when you buy aftermarket tracbars you have to redrill the hole to fit a bigger bolt. but as with the 3 vs. the 4.5, with a 4.5" lift, 31s might look weird. most people run 33s with 4.5" lift, and with 33s its usually recommended you regear, which costs quite a bit. it all depends on what kinda wheeling your gonna do with it. tcase drops IMO have always seemed like a step backwards. the whole point of lifting your jeep, is to give some of your jeeps vitals more clearance, like your tcase, and to lift your jeep, and lower your tcase seems to defeat the whole purpose. but thats just my .02, i think that if your gonna do it, do it right the first time. and having a 242 you dont have the option of an SYE, just a hack n tap.
http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,735
Likes: 1
From: Metro Denver, CO
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
@ XJ2010: you really can't have it both ways. You can't do a budget build and go out and get brand new everything for replacement parts. If you don't want to do any drilling or cutting, I don't blame you. That stuff makes me nervous too. But before you go off and buy a brand new lift kit, I'd check craigslist and ebay. There was one guy trading a 4.5" lift kit w/ shocks in exchange for helping him install his lift kit and an SYE.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,735
Likes: 1
From: Metro Denver, CO
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Alright, well then Rough Country is going to be your next cheapest option. As for track bars, I vaguely remember someone talking about being able to use a ZJ trackbar or something like that. And the drive shaft...auto trannies have a slightly longer front shaft than an 5-speed's rear driveshaft, from what I recall.


