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lift kit help

Old Sep 7, 2009 | 08:26 PM
  #31  
Mike H.'s Avatar
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The more posts of yours I read, the more I am determined to start skipping over everything you type.
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Old Sep 7, 2009 | 08:32 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Mike H.
The more posts of yours I read, the more I am determined to start skipping over everything you type.
thats your choice
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Old Sep 7, 2009 | 08:40 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Mike1998XJ
Rough Country is junk. Go with RE or RockCrawler if your going to go that high.
why is RC junk?? in your opinion do you have to Over pay for a name so you feel better about the product? for the money RC has the nicest 6" lift on the market...they stand behind there products...
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Old Sep 7, 2009 | 08:41 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 98 JeepJeep
why is RC junk?? in your opinion do you have to Over pay for a name so you feel better about the product? for the money RC has the nicest 6" lift on the market...they stand behind there products...
x2
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Old Sep 7, 2009 | 09:52 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Cherokee 4.0
My iq is around 125, incase you cared. A long arm kit isnt neccsary unless hes doing hard core wheeling. Your right i dont know a darn thing about cherokees, i never have owned one. Or lifted one or pulled the motors or rebuild the top half of the motors or spent the last 2 years non stop tinkering with them.

He said he wants to go with 35"... 35" you want a long arm.
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 03:11 PM
  #36  
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I have been reading the posts and skipping over the so called "125 IQ's" posts cause eventhough i'm new to the sport, i already know i know more than he does. I'm not going to start with 35's, i'm going to start with 33's and build my way up depending on how serious i want to get with the sport. My brother built his Jeep so if I need help, I know he can help me if needed. I'm not trying to get all this stuff immediately, i'm going to start stock and save up money to get the better parts while learning and researching more. I'm just putting a list together of what I should get and what is not needed.

And for budget, right now I have about $7,000 saved up and will be adding about $1000-$1500 per month due to a new job. =D

You guys have helped out a lot and I thank you for that, I will do much more research on the different lifts

When I put together the whole list I'll let ya know and see what you think, whether I should change some stuff or add/take off some parts.

Oh, and Six-pack Smile, no one here wants to know what you have to say. Go back to your 6-pack, I think your belly is cravin some more beer you drunk SOB. and I think you mistook "125" for 1.25
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 06:34 PM
  #37  
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Mudroller:
What State do you live in? If your like me and live in a northern climate all the Cherokees around here have taken a beating from the salt.
The red one I own I bought in Florida with 246k miles on it. That was only $800 bucks because it had been overheated and leaked coolant all over.

But... It was very rust free. To a Michigan guy you can't beat that. I then bought a totaled Michigan Jeep for $1200 and yanked everything oput of it except the dash. They all reside in my Red one now.
I have done this with success before and is a great way to get into Jeeping if you don't mind the work...
See my pictures for more details.

Just my 2 cents... Since you seem to have a grasp on the BS at least! LOL
Mike
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 07:32 PM
  #38  
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Lol nice, it's a thought. I'm over in California, about an hour out from SF so there's no snow or anything like that. Jeeps over here run about 2-3000 for a decent jeep
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 07:44 PM
  #39  
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Hey I can relate to you on going slow to build right, and it sure is nice to build on vehicles that are not abused by the salt and snow.
I to live in Ca, central valley, and I used to live in Minnesota so I know what it is like to try and work on rusted hulks.
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 09:47 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by mudroller
I have been reading the posts and skipping over the so called "125 IQ's" posts cause eventhough i'm new to the sport, i already know i know more than he does. I'm not going to start with 35's, i'm going to start with 33's and build my way up depending on how serious i want to get with the sport. My brother built his Jeep so if I need help, I know he can help me if needed. I'm not trying to get all this stuff immediately, i'm going to start stock and save up money to get the better parts while learning and researching more. I'm just putting a list together of what I should get and what is not needed.

And for budget, right now I have about $7,000 saved up and will be adding about $1000-$1500 per month due to a new job. =D

You guys have helped out a lot and I thank you for that, I will do much more research on the different lifts

When I put together the whole list I'll let ya know and see what you think, whether I should change some stuff or add/take off some parts.

Oh, and Six-pack Smile, no one here wants to know what you have to say. Go back to your 6-pack, I think your belly is cravin some more beer you drunk SOB. and I think you mistook "125" for 1.25
LOL!
Sounds like you are headed the right direction.
Since you have some cash...
Long arm is the way "I" would go if doing it again. Even if only going 2-3".
Simply for the ride, and flex.
I'm at 2.5" lift on short arms and it rides decent and flexes ok, but, the short arm design begins to bind (11" travel but max'd out) when letting the axle droop, and the arm angles are not ideal for nice ride be it pavement or washboad.
A good long arm setup will allow you to grow... be it in lift height, or simply running low with big tires and looking for all the droop you can get.
Axles, personally, I'd go with stock (D30 and CryCo 8.25) for 33's. Once you decide to go 35's "I" would go D44 and Ford 9" (rather than D60's). Less weight to hang off the unibody, less mass to eat HP/gas.

Good luck.

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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 10:40 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Mike H.
LOL!
Sounds like you are headed the right direction.
Since you have some cash...
Long arm is the way "I" would go if doing it again. Even if only going 2-3".
Simply for the ride, and flex.
I'm at 2.5" lift on short arms and it rides decent and flexes ok, but, the short arm design begins to bind (11" travel but max'd out) when letting the axle droop, and the arm angles are not ideal for nice ride be it pavement or washboad.
A good long arm setup will allow you to grow... be it in lift height, or simply running low with big tires and looking for all the droop you can get.
Axles, personally, I'd go with stock (D30 and CryCo 8.25) for 33's. Once you decide to go 35's "I" would go D44 and Ford 9" (rather than D60's). Less weight to hang off the unibody, less mass to eat HP/gas.

Good luck.
Couldn't have said it better myself. Exactly what he said is what I would personally do also.
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 10:40 PM
  #42  
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Good thing you live where it doesn't snow! That SF area is cool. I spent a week there last summer with the Wife and Daughter. Had an Infinity M35 car for a rental. Taking it up Highway 1 North out of SF was a blast. I left as much rubber on that road as I could! The Wife couldn't understand why I had to turn the traction control off after every stop!
Here is a link to a perfect lift for you!
http://www.rockkrawler.com/?r_intro=1

You could upgrade this as you go higher for a reasonable price and what's not to like about a lifetime warranty?
There is quite a bit posted about Rock krawler on naxja.com

If I build an off-road machine I'm going to go with this or something like this or a little higher. I have Dana 60's for the next one and I agree with that other guy. "they are really heavy for a Cherokee". The guys that build buggies or play in the rocks would have more of a need for them than I. I guess it all depends on what kind of offroading your going to do... I agree with him, the Ford 9" and a Dana 44 up front make a nice combo and can handle some pretty tough stuff.
Mike
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 10:48 PM
  #43  
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Rockcrawler makes good stuff.
May also want to check out TnT
http://www.gotreks.com/treks_home.asp

Last edited by Mike H.; Sep 8, 2009 at 10:53 PM.
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 11:05 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Mike H.
Rockcrawler makes good stuff.
May also want to check out TnT
http://www.gotreks.com/treks_home.asp
I researched the TnT systems... From an engineering stand point, I don't like those Y-arms they offer on some of their kits. It restricts the rotational motion of the axel. Many have posted how their Customer Service has short comings. I didn't have a problem with them when I bought their unibody stiffeners though.
I do like the looks of their welds and so on. They build their stuff tough!
I have Rubicon Express lift and thought it was a nice system at a reasonable price. Respectable within all Cherokee circles as well. Not like some of the others...
Mike
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Old Sep 9, 2009 | 08:56 AM
  #45  
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Mike,
I have read the same.
I like the belly up pan and the way the arms attach to a pan that spreads the forces out over a much larger surface.
For customer service, simply hook up with Rock Yatch over on NAXJA.

I think Rock Crawler and TnT need to combine designs to offer the best of each, Rock Crawlers 3 link, and TnT's belly up skid/crossmember/arm brace.
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