lift kit help
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,543
Likes: 5
From: Stafford,VA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
why is RC junk?? in your opinion do you have to Over pay for a name so you feel better about the product? for the money RC has the nicest 6" lift on the market...they stand behind there products...
Registered Users
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,401
Likes: 1
From: Pa
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 706
Likes: 1
From: Hendersonville, TN
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
My iq is around 125, incase you cared. A long arm kit isnt neccsary unless hes doing hard core wheeling. Your right i dont know a darn thing about cherokees, i never have owned one. Or lifted one or pulled the motors or rebuild the top half of the motors or spent the last 2 years non stop tinkering with them.
He said he wants to go with 35"... 35" you want a long arm.
I have been reading the posts and skipping over the so called "125 IQ's" posts cause eventhough i'm new to the sport, i already know i know more than he does. I'm not going to start with 35's, i'm going to start with 33's and build my way up depending on how serious i want to get with the sport. My brother built his Jeep so if I need help, I know he can help me if needed. I'm not trying to get all this stuff immediately, i'm going to start stock and save up money to get the better parts while learning and researching more. I'm just putting a list together of what I should get and what is not needed.
And for budget, right now I have about $7,000 saved up and will be adding about $1000-$1500 per month due to a new job. =D
You guys have helped out a lot and I thank you for that, I will do much more research on the different lifts
When I put together the whole list I'll let ya know and see what you think, whether I should change some stuff or add/take off some parts.
Oh, and Six-pack Smile, no one here wants to know what you have to say. Go back to your 6-pack, I think your belly is cravin some more beer you drunk SOB. and I think you mistook "125" for 1.25
And for budget, right now I have about $7,000 saved up and will be adding about $1000-$1500 per month due to a new job. =D
You guys have helped out a lot and I thank you for that, I will do much more research on the different lifts
When I put together the whole list I'll let ya know and see what you think, whether I should change some stuff or add/take off some parts.
Oh, and Six-pack Smile, no one here wants to know what you have to say. Go back to your 6-pack, I think your belly is cravin some more beer you drunk SOB. and I think you mistook "125" for 1.25
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 922
Likes: 2
From: Grand Haven, Michigan
Year: 1998, 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Mudroller:
What State do you live in? If your like me and live in a northern climate all the Cherokees around here have taken a beating from the salt.
The red one I own I bought in Florida with 246k miles on it. That was only $800 bucks because it had been overheated and leaked coolant all over.
But... It was very rust free. To a Michigan guy you can't beat that. I then bought a totaled Michigan Jeep for $1200 and yanked everything oput of it except the dash. They all reside in my Red one now.
I have done this with success before and is a great way to get into Jeeping if you don't mind the work...
See my pictures for more details.
Just my 2 cents... Since you seem to have a grasp on the BS at least! LOL
Mike
What State do you live in? If your like me and live in a northern climate all the Cherokees around here have taken a beating from the salt.
The red one I own I bought in Florida with 246k miles on it. That was only $800 bucks because it had been overheated and leaked coolant all over.
But... It was very rust free. To a Michigan guy you can't beat that. I then bought a totaled Michigan Jeep for $1200 and yanked everything oput of it except the dash. They all reside in my Red one now.
I have done this with success before and is a great way to get into Jeeping if you don't mind the work...
See my pictures for more details.
Just my 2 cents... Since you seem to have a grasp on the BS at least! LOL
Mike
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Year: 1987 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 4dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 liter 4cyl
Hey I can relate to you on going slow to build right, and it sure is nice to build on vehicles that are not abused by the salt and snow.
I to live in Ca, central valley, and I used to live in Minnesota so I know what it is like to try and work on rusted hulks.
I to live in Ca, central valley, and I used to live in Minnesota so I know what it is like to try and work on rusted hulks.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Phoenix AZ
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6ho
I have been reading the posts and skipping over the so called "125 IQ's" posts cause eventhough i'm new to the sport, i already know i know more than he does. I'm not going to start with 35's, i'm going to start with 33's and build my way up depending on how serious i want to get with the sport. My brother built his Jeep so if I need help, I know he can help me if needed. I'm not trying to get all this stuff immediately, i'm going to start stock and save up money to get the better parts while learning and researching more. I'm just putting a list together of what I should get and what is not needed.
And for budget, right now I have about $7,000 saved up and will be adding about $1000-$1500 per month due to a new job. =D
You guys have helped out a lot and I thank you for that, I will do much more research on the different lifts
When I put together the whole list I'll let ya know and see what you think, whether I should change some stuff or add/take off some parts.
Oh, and Six-pack Smile, no one here wants to know what you have to say. Go back to your 6-pack, I think your belly is cravin some more beer you drunk SOB. and I think you mistook "125" for 1.25
And for budget, right now I have about $7,000 saved up and will be adding about $1000-$1500 per month due to a new job. =D
You guys have helped out a lot and I thank you for that, I will do much more research on the different lifts
When I put together the whole list I'll let ya know and see what you think, whether I should change some stuff or add/take off some parts.
Oh, and Six-pack Smile, no one here wants to know what you have to say. Go back to your 6-pack, I think your belly is cravin some more beer you drunk SOB. and I think you mistook "125" for 1.25
Sounds like you are headed the right direction.
Since you have some cash...
Long arm is the way "I" would go if doing it again. Even if only going 2-3".
Simply for the ride, and flex.
I'm at 2.5" lift on short arms and it rides decent and flexes ok, but, the short arm design begins to bind (11" travel but max'd out) when letting the axle droop, and the arm angles are not ideal for nice ride be it pavement or washboad.
A good long arm setup will allow you to grow... be it in lift height, or simply running low with big tires and looking for all the droop you can get.
Axles, personally, I'd go with stock (D30 and CryCo 8.25) for 33's. Once you decide to go 35's "I" would go D44 and Ford 9" (rather than D60's). Less weight to hang off the unibody, less mass to eat HP/gas.
Good luck.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 706
Likes: 1
From: Hendersonville, TN
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
LOL!
Sounds like you are headed the right direction.
Since you have some cash...
Long arm is the way "I" would go if doing it again. Even if only going 2-3".
Simply for the ride, and flex.
I'm at 2.5" lift on short arms and it rides decent and flexes ok, but, the short arm design begins to bind (11" travel but max'd out) when letting the axle droop, and the arm angles are not ideal for nice ride be it pavement or washboad.
A good long arm setup will allow you to grow... be it in lift height, or simply running low with big tires and looking for all the droop you can get.
Axles, personally, I'd go with stock (D30 and CryCo 8.25) for 33's. Once you decide to go 35's "I" would go D44 and Ford 9" (rather than D60's). Less weight to hang off the unibody, less mass to eat HP/gas.
Good luck.
Sounds like you are headed the right direction.
Since you have some cash...
Long arm is the way "I" would go if doing it again. Even if only going 2-3".
Simply for the ride, and flex.
I'm at 2.5" lift on short arms and it rides decent and flexes ok, but, the short arm design begins to bind (11" travel but max'd out) when letting the axle droop, and the arm angles are not ideal for nice ride be it pavement or washboad.
A good long arm setup will allow you to grow... be it in lift height, or simply running low with big tires and looking for all the droop you can get.
Axles, personally, I'd go with stock (D30 and CryCo 8.25) for 33's. Once you decide to go 35's "I" would go D44 and Ford 9" (rather than D60's). Less weight to hang off the unibody, less mass to eat HP/gas.
Good luck.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 922
Likes: 2
From: Grand Haven, Michigan
Year: 1998, 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Good thing you live where it doesn't snow! That SF area is cool. I spent a week there last summer with the Wife and Daughter. Had an Infinity M35 car for a rental. Taking it up Highway 1 North out of SF was a blast. I left as much rubber on that road as I could! The Wife couldn't understand why I had to turn the traction control off after every stop!
Here is a link to a perfect lift for you!
http://www.rockkrawler.com/?r_intro=1
You could upgrade this as you go higher for a reasonable price and what's not to like about a lifetime warranty?
There is quite a bit posted about Rock krawler on naxja.com
If I build an off-road machine I'm going to go with this or something like this or a little higher. I have Dana 60's for the next one and I agree with that other guy. "they are really heavy for a Cherokee". The guys that build buggies or play in the rocks would have more of a need for them than I. I guess it all depends on what kind of offroading your going to do... I agree with him, the Ford 9" and a Dana 44 up front make a nice combo and can handle some pretty tough stuff.
Mike
Here is a link to a perfect lift for you!
http://www.rockkrawler.com/?r_intro=1
You could upgrade this as you go higher for a reasonable price and what's not to like about a lifetime warranty?
There is quite a bit posted about Rock krawler on naxja.com
If I build an off-road machine I'm going to go with this or something like this or a little higher. I have Dana 60's for the next one and I agree with that other guy. "they are really heavy for a Cherokee". The guys that build buggies or play in the rocks would have more of a need for them than I. I guess it all depends on what kind of offroading your going to do... I agree with him, the Ford 9" and a Dana 44 up front make a nice combo and can handle some pretty tough stuff.
Mike
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Phoenix AZ
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6ho
Last edited by Mike H.; Sep 8, 2009 at 10:53 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 922
Likes: 2
From: Grand Haven, Michigan
Year: 1998, 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I do like the looks of their welds and so on. They build their stuff tough!
I have Rubicon Express lift and thought it was a nice system at a reasonable price. Respectable within all Cherokee circles as well. Not like some of the others...
Mike
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Phoenix AZ
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6ho
Mike,
I have read the same.
I like the belly up pan and the way the arms attach to a pan that spreads the forces out over a much larger surface.
For customer service, simply hook up with Rock Yatch over on NAXJA.
I think Rock Crawler and TnT need to combine designs to offer the best of each, Rock Crawlers 3 link, and TnT's belly up skid/crossmember/arm brace.
I have read the same.
I like the belly up pan and the way the arms attach to a pan that spreads the forces out over a much larger surface.
For customer service, simply hook up with Rock Yatch over on NAXJA.
I think Rock Crawler and TnT need to combine designs to offer the best of each, Rock Crawlers 3 link, and TnT's belly up skid/crossmember/arm brace.


