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leaking rear brake line

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Old 03-12-2010, 10:01 PM
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Default leaking rear brake line

after an axle swap today, I reconnected my rear brake lines, but the passenger side brake line is leaking out of the cube thing that links the two rear brake lines with the main line. the nut for the connection got stripped really bad while uninstalling it, and even worse during reinstallation. I have it on there as tight as I can and now it is stripped so bad I can't tighten it more or even loosen it. the leak drips every time I press the brake, but doesn't gush out or anything, is there anyway to stop the leak? or do I just need to get all new rear brake lines and a new cube thing? (anyone know what that thing is called? I feel like an idiot calling it a cube thing)
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Dan
Old 03-12-2010, 10:17 PM
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its best to just replace them,remmember its your life rideing on those brakes
Old 03-12-2010, 10:24 PM
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the cube thing is a porportioning valve, I think I spelled that right
Old 03-12-2010, 10:36 PM
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mike...your knowledge amazes me. thanks for answering all my posts.
Old 03-12-2010, 10:37 PM
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I have been working on my own cars a long time,and I love my jeep.
Old 03-12-2010, 10:50 PM
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Mike, the block on the rear brake hose is not a proportioning valve. It is merely a junction for the rear steel brake lines. The proportioning valve is located near the master cylinder.

Make sure that the fitting is seated properly and that it did not cross thread. If it cross threaded and the fitting is damaged, you can change it out with the steel line from the 8.25
Old 03-12-2010, 10:58 PM
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Yeah get your self some new lines and a flare nut wrench. If the junction is messed up also get a new line...not gonna cost u a lot for piece of mind.

Last edited by winston427; 03-12-2010 at 11:00 PM.
Old 03-12-2010, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by winston427
Make sure that the fitting is seated properly and that it did not cross thread. If it cross threaded and the fitting is damaged, you can change it out with the steel line from the 8.25
I know it isn't cross threaded, I fingered it in almost the whole way, I only used vice grips the last little bit to get it tight as possible (it was too thrashed to used a wrench at this point).
Old 03-12-2010, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Skreed
Yeah get your self some new lines and a flare nut wrench.
I didn't know those existed before my neighbor told me I should have used one. I'm gonna pick up one of those before I get my new brake lines.
Old 03-13-2010, 12:07 AM
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one more question: does the junction for the lines that go to the wheels have to be mounted to the axle? the one from my 8.25 is a different size bolt than the d44, so can I just zip tie it down? it looks like it only mounts to the axle so that you can tighten the hose fittings better.
Old 03-13-2010, 12:12 AM
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I know on the D35 and the 8.25, the bolt that holds the brake hose block on the axle is also the vnet tube for the axle. That vent tube bolt needs to be there for the vent tube to attach to.
Old 03-13-2010, 12:15 AM
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I would not use zip ties...When you flex the zip ties or possible the lines might bbust off the axle.

That being said I dont have experience with d44's so i dont know what size vent bolt you can use. I know a d35 fits a 8.25 but thats about it. I'm sure you can find it somewhere on the net/
Old 03-13-2010, 12:33 AM
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the d44 has the vent nozzle located on the axle next to the junction. It just had a smaller solid bolt holding the junction to the axle.
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