Leak issues. Can i fix myself?
#1
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline6
Leak issues. Can i fix myself?
So yesterday after driving to work I noticed I had a slight drip going on after checking the jeep out later. When I went to drive home I checked again and noticed a small puddle. I thought maybe from the incline it made it worse than it actually is. Got home and let her sit on flat ground and checked again after waking to find out I had a small puddle again. Took some pics and now here I am. Is this something I can do myself? Or should I get a shop to do this?
.
tcase
Rear of oilpan
Feont of oilpan
Another front of oil pan
No idea. Under the engine
Under the engine
Under the engine
Under the engine
Under the engine and oilpan
.
tcase
Rear of oilpan
Feont of oilpan
Another front of oil pan
No idea. Under the engine
Under the engine
Under the engine
Under the engine
Under the engine and oilpan
#4
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Agreed with cleaning it. Soak it down with any number of degreasers, hose/power wash it.
With a clean engine you can find the leak. Whatever it is has gotten worse.
With a clean engine you can find the leak. Whatever it is has gotten worse.
#5
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I’d be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.
Everybody, who doesn’t own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?
A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don’t jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.
Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons:
First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area.
Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber’s adage apply here: “Crap flows downhill”.
Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, distributor gasket, oil filter adapter.....
Everybody, who doesn’t own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?
A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don’t jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.
Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons:
First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area.
Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber’s adage apply here: “Crap flows downhill”.
Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, distributor gasket, oil filter adapter.....
#7
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Have you checked your fluids lately and had one lower then normal ?And like said the leak could be anything from anywhere and running down hill and breaking thrown around.A good cleaning will let you figure out where the leak is really coming from.
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#8
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Year: 1990
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So I cleaned it up good and drove around a bit for a week. It's not my daily drive for now but I've gone roughly 50miles since cleaning and there's not much leak coming at all. Is it possible the heat was loosening and making old grime drip? No more fluid on the inner Passenger tire either. I will do a full fluid change tomorrow or next week. But that's all I have for now. Sorry for the late update. Been real busy lately.
#9
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Monitor it using Post 5 as a guide.
#10
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Year: 1990
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Replacing VCG, RMS and OPG since I have to be in there anyway to clean and I haven't replaced any of those myself in 4years. A lot more work than I expected honestly but after 2 days of working about 4 horus each day I am almost done. I need a bigger Ratchet and Socket to break the RMS bolts free. Then replace. Torque them to spec and get everything back in. Hopefully I can get the proper Ratchet and Socket by the weekend so I can finish up. Thanks for the help so far all.
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