Couple questions.

I'm replacing the bushings/shackles on the old '96 XJ leaf springs and I'm not sure how to go about disconnecting everything. Since the springs are under load I just don't want to jump into taking things apart on my first go round here. So do I just basically jack the rear end up so the tires are off the ground, then disconnect the front and rear ends of the leafs? At that point if I can get enough access to the ends I'm guessing I won't have to disconnect the springs from the axle.

And on the shocks.. Need to replace all 4 and need advice on a good brand/model. Basically my rigs always on the road and I just want a good quality OEM replacement...not economy and not heavy duty.

 

Changing the leaf springs will be a little more involved than what you have described. I recommend watching a few youtube videos, and reading up a little first. Typically, the jeep would be lifted high and jack stands used to support the body via the frame rails. The the jack can be used under the differential to take the load off the springs. If the axle is hanging on the springs they will be somewhat loaded, if the weight of the vehicle is on the springs, they will be VERY loaded. So the jack is used to find the position in between those two things where the spring is in its neutral position. The springs will have to be disconnected from the axle in order to replace them. New u-bolts should be used.

For shocks, your generally-good run-of-the-mill replacements will be the Monroe OE-Spectra type shocks. You can get them at Advance, Napa, etc. They will be about $45 a piece. They have a line under that one (the sensatracs?) which will run about $30 a piece. They are both ok, and I have had both. But the OE-spectra line was definitely superior. Better riding, and retained its characteristics for many more miles.

I still have the OE-spectra shocks on the front, and they are still doing fine after 2 years of 80mile/day driving. (I have since put air shocks on the rear though).

 

Thanks again jordan. Actually I'm not changing out the springs themselves, I think they're still good, just the bushings. Which means pressing the old ones out and the new ones in at the front, and just replacing the entire shackle at the rear.

Would I still need to disconnect the springs from the axle in this case?

 

If the bushings are bad I would venture to say the leafs themselves aren't too far behind. I personally would just get new stock replacements. Plus, it's going to be pretty hard to press the bushings in and out without the springs completely off. Jordan gave a real good writeup to use.

 

You might be able to work on the bushings without removing the spring. But remembering back to when I did my springs, I'm going to say probably not. Even with one side of the axle at its lowest, it may not give you the clearance you'll need to get in there with a press. But I can't be certain.

What I can be certain of is that you are going to be doing 90% of what is arguably a pretty tedious job. Are the springs in such good shape that you wouldn't go ahead and replace them since you have them nearly all the way out any way? Dormans come with the bushings pre-pressed in, so that is an added bonus.

But I understand not wasting money if the springs are decent. But I think by the time you get the leaf spring eye and shackle bolts out, removing the spring plate u-bolts will be small potatoes. So give it a try, and if you need to get the spring off the axle to finish the job, you can cross that bridge when you come to it.

 

Yeah I def agree on swaping the leaf springs out at the same time. But you guessed it, it's about the moolah. When the springs finally go I guess everything will be easier to take out since I'm doing it now.

 

Someone suggested I look into either OME or Bilstein shocks for just good overall ride quality and durability. Only Bilsteins I've found so far are the 4600 series which are considered heavy duty. Is this the functionality level I should be aiming for...heavy duty? I'm only stock and don't really carry much weight around.

And I haven't been able to find OME anywhere just individually for sale. I guess maybe I'm not searching right or something.

 

I think you're getting good advice here. If you're sure the bushings are bad, I'd be replacing the leafs too. That front leaf eye bolt is hard to get off and it's been on there for 20 years. Not sure if you have a lot of rust where you are but most of the job is getting the front bolts off the leafs. The rear shackle stuff comes off easy or at least you can get wrenches and breaker bars in there. The u-bolts are supposed to be replaced if you remove the leafs-you'll need to know what rear axle you have before you get new ones. The shocks are pretty easy to replace provided you don't break anything up at the top end.

If everything is stock, not sure why you're going with OME or bilsteins if you are worried about cost. Monroe's or Gabriels are more like stock ride quality. The others are for off-road use and are pretty pricey (like 10x more than stock).

 

Here's what I suggest and install when someone asks for a quality replacement shock equal to or a bit better than the oem ones. We have them on our '96 Blazer. Although it's used as our main source of transportation we live off road and travel on a lot of unimproved secondary roads. The shocks do fine.
http://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/GR2.cfm

http://www.shockwarehouse.com/index....cted_year=1996