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Leaf spring bolt specs?

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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 11:20 AM
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Default Leaf spring bolt specs?

I'm getting ready to take off the stock leaf springs from my 98 XJ, and I'm worried that when I do the bolts will snap or i will have to cut them off. I'm going to the hardware store today to pick up some replacement bolts but I don't know what size I need. Can anyone chime in?
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 11:55 AM
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I don't know what size, but make sure you get Grade 8. It will be a few bucks more than standard hardware store grade, but it's worth it for suspension parts. And it will only be a few bucks.

Try Tractor Supply. There are a few in your neck of the woods. They have good hardware pretty cheap.

Or you could go crazy and get stainless steel.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueRidgeMark
I don't know what size, but make sure you get Grade 8. It will be a few bucks more than standard hardware store grade, but it's worth it for suspension parts. And it will only be a few bucks. Try Tractor Supply. There are a few in your neck of the woods. They have good hardware pretty cheap. Or you could go crazy and get stainless steel.
I will probably go stainless in that case. Dont mind spending a little extra. Do it right once, and you'll never have to do it again...generally speaking.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 12:19 PM
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Stainless is not as strong as grade 8, it is closer to grade 5.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 12:28 PM
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Grade 8 all the way it cost me around 50$ to replace all and i mean all the suspension hardware on my 2dr i had. Just get the bolt off and take it to the hardware store most places have something their so you can figure out size and threads
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by zkeifer
Grade 8 all the way it cost me around 50$ to replace all and i mean all the suspension hardware on my 2dr i had. Just get the bolt off and take it to the hardware store most places have something their so you can figure out size and threads
So even if the bolt snaps or i have to cut it off, someplace like Lowe's or Home Depot will be able to identify it?
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 12:38 PM
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As long as you can thread a nut on it you can identify it.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 12:42 PM
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Thanks for yall's help, I really appreciate it.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 12:43 PM
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little tip I picked up... of the four bolts, at least two should survive (fingers crossed)... If the two in the front get trashed, use the rear ones in the front brackets, as the weld nut in the bracket in the front has VERY limited access (cutting through the floor) and you want to make sure the threads match (double check that yours do! mine did)... For the rear just pick up (as other have said) some grade 8 bolt and nuts for the rear. USE a breaker bar not any air or power tools, lots of PB Blaster and some heat, should be fine. my 2 cents.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 12:44 PM
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I'd avoid purchasing grade 8 stuff from Lowes/home depot/menards as they get China made crap that isnt true grade 8. Get it online and make sure it is made in the USA for optimal strength.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by BoomStickTmo
little tip I picked up... of the four bolts, at least two should survive (fingers crossed)... If the two in the front get trashed, use the rear ones in the front brackets, as the weld nut in the bracket in the front has VERY limited access (cutting through the floor) and you want to make sure the threads match (double check that yours do! mine did)... For the rear just pick up (as other have said) some grade 8 bolt and nuts for the rear. USE a breaker bar not any air or power tools, lots of PB Blaster and some heat, should be fine. my 2 cents.
Awesome tip, thanks. I'll be sure to keep it in mind.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by XJPat
Stainless is not as strong as grade 8, it is closer to grade 5.


Yep. I was joking about the stainless. Still, that's better than standard grade 5, but my preference would be 8.
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