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keyless entry not working

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Old May 27, 2013 | 08:16 PM
  #1  
mikesignal's Avatar
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Default keyless entry not working

I finished up my evaporator and heater core install the other day, and everything works except my keyless entry. It's like it was deprogrammed. Everything I've read says the dealer has to do it unless you have a dbIII scan tool. Is this correct or is there something else I can do to sync them.
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Old May 27, 2013 | 11:06 PM
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The keyless entry receiver and chip is located in the overhead lighting unit, so I think that what probably happened is something with your wiring which is located in the passenger side kick pannel right where the fuse pannel is located. The plug that controls the unit looks like the picture I am attaching, you can remove the kick pannel by removing two screws on on the bottom door trim/molding and then using a 11mm ratchet to remove the one nut that is under the fuse panel door. I would check there first. -
Attached Thumbnails keyless entry not working-img_2991.jpg   keyless entry not working-img_3005.jpg  
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Old May 28, 2013 | 06:07 AM
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after I put everything back together I did have a plug in that area that I could not find anything to plug it in to. Here's a picture of it with the glove box removed. It looks like it's probably the same plug.

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Old May 28, 2013 | 06:20 AM
  #4  
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That's your problem. Plug that in and keyless entry will work again. Don't you love simple fixes?
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Old May 28, 2013 | 06:42 AM
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I'll have to go back and look for the matching plug. I looked for something to plug into that for at least 15 minutes after I got everything back together. maybe I was just burnt out.
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Old May 28, 2013 | 08:11 AM
  #6  
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I found the other end. It had gotten pushed into a tight spot when I put the dash back in. thanks for the help.
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Old May 28, 2013 | 08:23 AM
  #7  
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Not to jack, but how'd the evap/core install go?

That job is on my radar...yikes
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Old May 28, 2013 | 08:45 AM
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It's a PITA, but not impossible. The hardest part is getting the bolts that hold the heater/evaporaor core housing to the firewall off. One of the bolts is behind the motor. That was the hardest one, another bolt is towards the passenger side fender. it's pretty tight to get your hand in the too.
I did mine over 3 days. Day one was getting the dash out of the way and the housing out. I think that took 3 1/2 hours. Then the next day I swapped out the heater/evaporator cores from the housing. I used a heat gun to get the foam seals off the housing so i could re-use them. i also had to cut up some styrofoam to put under the evaporator core because the original was toast. I used spray adhesive to stick the styrofoam to the housing underneath the evaporator. I also re-used the foam that was attached to the evap and heater cores. I used a heat gun to remove that as well. that was about an hour.
The third day I installed the housing back onto the firewall and put the dashboard and console back in. I really didn't keep track of time because I also vacuumed everything while I hade the console out and cleaned out the whole vehicle. If I had to guess it was 2 -3 hours. I would say it's an 8 hour job for you average do it your self person.
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Old May 28, 2013 | 10:50 AM
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Great info, thanks. I will probably do mine in the same fashion. One more question--did you have your A/C professionally discharged?
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Old May 28, 2013 | 11:39 AM
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there was nothing in it. it all leaked out the bad evaporator core.

I had a shop supposedly check my whole system back in March. I told them it had not worked since 2006. They told me all it needed was a compressor and a dryer. They replaced both and charged it up. It cost me about $500 or $550? something like that. Then about a month and a half later it stopped working again. I brought it back and watched them work on it. That's when I realized people who say they are mechanics are really not. The guy didn't know how to use the machine and didn't have a sniffer tool to check for leaks. He figured out how to fill it back up with r134 and dye. A few hours later I saw the dye coming out of the bottom of the evaporator drain hole in the firewall. They will never see my jeep again.

I have a PDF file on my computer with pictures and directions. send me a pm with your email and I'll send it over.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 09:04 AM
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Sending you a PM mikesignal.
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 08:35 PM
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Default Any Thoughts?

Okay, I’m new here I have a 98 XJ as my project vehicle and I’m having the same problem, but my female plug only has 2 wires coming out of it. I don’t think that’s right because there’s more going in so I’m just wondering? I bought the jeep used for 250$ with 229k miles and the unibody is in great condition but the previous owner let the engine overheat and crack a head gasket. So I already have to replace the engine.
The wires are #6 & 12 and it looks like it was messed with in the past.

Last edited by Legit-Moustache; Oct 2, 2017 at 09:15 PM.
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Old Jan 21, 2023 | 05:27 PM
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Resurrecting an old thread here. My Jeep had this exact same plug with nothing plugged in to it just as this one. Does anyone have a picture of where the other side of this plug comes from? Above? Below? I can't find the other end of it just as the original poster stated.

Thanks.
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Old Feb 23, 2023 | 03:52 PM
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Having the same exact problem, have a plug hanging down by the fuse panel and no clue where it goes
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Old Feb 24, 2023 | 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by jsebastino
Having the same exact problem, have a plug hanging down by the fuse panel and no clue where it goes
hah this must be a systemic issue as my overhead console wasn’t working when I bought my XJ. I found a loose connector at the fuse panel. I had to reach my fingers up above the fuse panel to find the other wire connector and now it works fine. Why do PO’s disconnect these connectors? I asked the PO and he didn’t even know about it so it’s from the PPO etc.



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