Jeep starts then cuts off
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Joined: Jan 2023
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From: South Carolina
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I got a 89 xj 4.0 and it sat for a bit and I went to start it and I idled choppy then cut off after 2 mins or so then I tried again and it idled at 3k rpm, I tried to drive it and it wouldn’t go over 2k then died while driving.
it’s got a new tps and cps and plugs and wires are about 6 months old
it’s got a new tps and cps and plugs and wires are about 6 months old
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 5,840
Likes: 117
From: In the middle of Minnesota!
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Job #1 is to ensure you have a good fully charged battery, especially with you noting that it sat for a while. How long is "sat for a bit" (the devil is in the details here) Was the battery removed and kept charged during that time when it sat? How old is the battery? The 4.0 engine is not happy when available juice is low and yes, you can absolutely have a battery strong enough to start the engine but marginal enough to give the engine management system fits and give you driveability issues. Have your battery load tested at a parts store if any question.
If battery is newer, passes load testing, is fully charged and your engine is still symptomatic, move on to testing fuel delivery. Must be done with a fuel pressure gauge. If you don't have this tool, many parts stores rent them inexpensively, call around for availability. For your 89 you need approximately 31 psi at idle. Then disconnect the vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator under the hood and the pressure should jump to approximately 39 psi. If there is any raw fuel in that vacuum line, replace the fuel pressure regulator as it has a ruptured diaphragm. They don't last forever and they aren't that expensive to replace.
You mention plugs and wires are new, unless you haven't already, finish the tuneup with a quality distributor cap and rotor and get some fresh fuel if it sat for a long time without fuel stabilizer.
Good luck and keep us updated!
If battery is newer, passes load testing, is fully charged and your engine is still symptomatic, move on to testing fuel delivery. Must be done with a fuel pressure gauge. If you don't have this tool, many parts stores rent them inexpensively, call around for availability. For your 89 you need approximately 31 psi at idle. Then disconnect the vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator under the hood and the pressure should jump to approximately 39 psi. If there is any raw fuel in that vacuum line, replace the fuel pressure regulator as it has a ruptured diaphragm. They don't last forever and they aren't that expensive to replace.
You mention plugs and wires are new, unless you haven't already, finish the tuneup with a quality distributor cap and rotor and get some fresh fuel if it sat for a long time without fuel stabilizer.
Good luck and keep us updated!
Last edited by tjwalker; Jan 10, 2023 at 06:55 PM.
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