Cherokee(XJ), Comanche (MJ), and Wrangler (YJ and TJ), Dodge Dakota (2nd gen)

This is for all vehicles equipped with an AX-15 and are having hard shifting issues, clutch disengagement problems, clutch hydraulic bleeding woes, won't shift into gear; from a stop or after engine has reached operating temperature, driven for a few miles and won't shift from a standstill.

Inherently, diagnosing clutch and or transmission problems can be cumbersome, even for seasoned technicians. For the past few of months I have had an issue with my clutch disk not completely disengaging. This was especially apparent after the vehicle was driven for a couple of miles and at a stop. I would have to turn the engine off to be able to shift it into a forward gear or into reverse; or forcefully slam it into gear (note: with the engine off/ not running, no trouble shifting through gears). I installed a Centerforce dual friction clutch kit (KDF939064) a few of years ago, correctly broken in, along with a clutch return fork spring and a new hydraulic clutch control assembly (Crown Automotive 52104110). The flywheel, front bearing retainer, clutch fork and pivot ball had minimal wear, so I did not replace them at the time of installation, roughly at ~100,000 miles. The components to date have less than ~15,000 miles.

Last month I found metal particles/shavings in the master cylinder and it had a leak at the slave cylinder's piston. This caused the symptom's as mentioned above.


This was the hydraulic assembly I installed previously with the new clutch kit install. (Not good, do not buy!) Also, a problem with this is that the hose from master cylinder binds toward the side to which it is being routed causing it to put tension and pressure on the O-ring which eventually started leaking; evident from the corrosion around the fitting from when I removed it.


Last month, I installed this pre-filled clutch master and slave cylinder assembly. (It's a hit or miss; my brother purchased the same unit from the same seller and has had no problems).
I also replaced my transmission oil with Shell Rotella T6 15W-40 full synthetic motor oil (it was previously filled with Redline MT-90) and transfer case fluid with Valvoline ATF +4 full synthetic after the install which didn't help much.

Within the first couple of days after installing this pre-filled unit, I began having the same symptoms again. I have scowered the internet for, spending hours searching issues related to my problem and have finally diagnosed and solved the issue! The manufacturer for some of these clutch hydraulic components for our Jeep's have become a nuisance and quality control is subpar standard from OEM. The primary issue may be in the parts used for these components such as the o-rings or seals.

Note: Other possible fixes and or solutions for similar symptoms can be to use a longer push rod for the slave cylinder or checking to see if the clutch pedal itself is warped/bent from it's original shape and bending it back to its original form.

My solution: I will just list the parts and their #'s to show the fix for my 1995 Jeep Cherokee XJ; double check the product(s) application for your model designation to ensure proper fitment.


Luk Clutch LMC206 - LuK Clutch Master Cylinders


Dorman CS360047 - Clutch slave cylinder


Russell Performance 694870 - Russell Clutch Hose Kits (this comes with two -3 AN SAE Adapter Fittings; you only need to use one for the slave cylinder; the clutch master cylinder utilizes a different fitting as shown below) Also, the hose does have a 90 degree elbow which has enough clearance to route over the brake booster and keeps the hose freely rotating to avoid impinging on the o-ring of the adapter fitting.


Advance Adapters 716130 - Advance Adapters Clutch Fittings (this couples the master cylinder to the clutch hose kit listed above)


It's pretty self explanatory as to how the assembly of this hydraulic system goes. Use a reverse bleeding method to fill the hydraulic system devoid of air bubbles with a brand new, unopened bottle of DOT3 brake fluid. This solution has resolved 95% of the issues I was having (I may need to re-bleed the system after I put more miles on of active clutch pedal use or it may just work itself out). The other 5% may be due to the premature wear on my clutch components; clutch drag may be the issue - I'm a spirited driver and often use engine braking to slow my vehicle down instead of using my brakes so there may be some warpage going on from excessive heat but that's for another day. I'm hoping others find this post before dropping their transmission or even consider a rebuild, thinking it's their synchro's, bearings, gears or other internal transmission constituents or rather just throwing parts at their Jeep in hopes of fixing it.

 

these slaves can be bled easily. The problem with them is that the rear of the cylinder where the bleeder is a bad location. When installed it is lower than the front of the cylinder, so any air ends up at the front of the cylinder and cannot be bled out the conventional way. But bleeding is easily accomplished by taking the cylinder loose, pointing the front down and pushing the plunger in and out a couple of times. All the air will be gone
And it can be done by one person

 

Greetings w00tplayaw00t, how are your LUK, Dorman, Russell Performance and Advance Adapters clutch components holding up? I am going to change my master cylinder, slave cylinder and hose real quick. Thanks.

 

I went the route w00tplayaw00t suggested. I like the idea of using the steel braided hose however there is no seal for the adapter. Okay I am at a standstill because I cannot find the o-ring/seal to fit the adapter. Avanced Adapters has no seal. Any suggestions?