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Jeep backfire in intake and hesitation in accel

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Old May 30, 2012 | 02:54 PM
  #31  
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ya had just ment originally to listen in. not take over. i have been stalling. but always fired back up again. ya ill have to get into another one back in my own years. sorry about the confusion.
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Old May 30, 2012 | 04:10 PM
  #32  
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Sounds smart. Ours doesn't do codes, yours does! The first page in "info threads" lists them, also there are some guys here that are pretty good. If this below doesn't work, I hear it's free at some auto part stores. If you start your tread with the code, or your problems with no codes set on your PCM, someone can probably help.



You can try this. I hear sometime in 97 it no longer works.
1984-1990 w/AMC engine are pre-OBD.

1984-1986 w/GM V6-173 are OBD-I (GM control setup.)

1991-1995 are OBD-I (Chrysler)

1996-2001 are OBD-II (Chrysler)

The "Key Tricks"
Older (OBDI) models - Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on, off, on, off, on. ("On" is NOT "Start" and "Off" is NOT "Lock"). The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes. Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH (pause) FLASH FLASH FLASH (long pause). It will never flash more than 9 times, so watch for those pauses!

Newer (OBDII) models - Put the key into the ignition, push down the odometer reset button, then turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button - and then release the button. The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number. It will then show the error codes (it might show them starting with P). If this method does not work, try the OBDI method.

Last edited by DFlintstone; May 30, 2012 at 04:16 PM. Reason: set on your PCM
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Old May 30, 2012 | 04:17 PM
  #33  
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thanks for the advie. still getting used to how these forums work. not sure mine will throw proper codes. 93 engine and engine harness 96 body and body harness mated together in an afternoon. not sure what wires hit where on the plug to hook in ofr if i got them right. ran fine for the first year so i dont think it is soething i have done to it when i made the swap. but ill keep looking


again thanks for the help.
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Old May 30, 2012 | 05:03 PM
  #34  
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Gotcha. I was new not long ago. Just ignore jerks, and don't post something wrong that could mess someone up. Pertinent, "off Jeep" issues might come up that you are more familiar with, (as well).

I'm getting that the line is a little blurry between the OBDI, surely to 95, and the OBDII, surely from 97. Maybe the digital odometer is a sure sign? I'm still looking for my Kleenex, for my Renix. (wouldn't have it any other way).

93 engine and harness to a 96 PCM. Yea, wow. Could you get a list of those codes, just as a starting point in your new thread?
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Old May 31, 2012 | 12:44 PM
  #35  
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Don, u can use carb cleaner to check for leaks too.... Little less volatile Hahaha..... Don't want someone to come out saying you started their engine on fire!! Hahahaha
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Old May 31, 2012 | 02:01 PM
  #36  
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Gotchya' Chad. I should pick up a can and personally "give it a shot". It might be the volatility, and the time it takes to evaporate are related. I find that with some heat/warmth, and the fan going and all, a "short little burst" of starting fluid evaporates pretty quick. Point taken though. I saw one U-tube deal where the guy was just drenching his engine, "duh, see, this even kills it". He's lucky it didn't backfire as it died.

Having dealt with more "pyrotechnic mishaps" then I can remember, I can say that the only real problem was when there was enough (gas), to puddle. Fortunately with that (Dodge van with the housing on, and the front open), I had an extinguisher. (normally I might just have a towel that I could wet with the bottle of water there for that purpose)

Somebody touching ANY can to a hot DC wire is what really scares me. (too easy to set it down in the wrong place).

My dad was a safety engineer for OSHA, and had a sad story about that.

Added: Since the insurance company for the starting fluid apparently gave them a green light for people to spray that stuff in there, it can't have resulted in too much damage.

Last edited by DFlintstone; May 31, 2012 at 02:44 PM.
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 06:45 AM
  #37  
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I've found that starting fluid evaporates way too quickly for finding vacuum leaks and it can also travel as a vapor to the carb or throttle body and fool you into thinking thre's a leak where there isn't. Throttle body cleaner or oxygen sensor safe carb cleaner works well.
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 06:13 PM
  #38  
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Don, I sure it works I just thought giving a dude you don't know with an experience level you don't know the green light to spray extremely flammable liquid near hot exhaust could possibly backfire (pun intended:-) ) just never know what lawyers can do these days :-D
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 06:30 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
I've found that starting fluid evaporates way too quickly for finding vacuum leaks
OK. I'll need to take that into account. It CAN work for plenty of them, evaporating before it's a much of a fire hazard. Little pissed, but gotcha' Chad. Wtf, Pete, gonna spray it on the lower #6 O ring and have it go in the grille?
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 07:00 PM
  #40  
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Ok when Rrich posted " Using ANY analog meter will instantly destroy it." in a thread I actually put a bit of work into, I wasn't "feeling any love", from ether of you two. Whatever, it's only the web. Is that where you are at?. I guess something like an 02 sensor that is the end 'trim" for your efficiency and economy of your rig is second to something? https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/ren...ce-rms-133153/
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 08:54 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
OK. I'll need to take that into account. It CAN work for plenty of them, evaporating before it's a much of a fire hazard. Little pissed, but gotcha' Chad. Wtf, Pete, gonna spray it on the lower #6 O ring and have it go in the grille?
Nah, but it can be pulled into a throttle body when spraying the base etc.
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 10:10 PM
  #42  
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Got-it. Learning from you of course. Just that with 30+ years of experience I need to adjust a little. Again my thanks for putting up with me.

Last edited by DFlintstone; Jun 1, 2012 at 10:13 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 01:42 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
It might be the volatility, and the time it takes to evaporate are related.
If it hangs around, and doesn't evaporate as fast at ether, there could defenataly be trouble. A hot manifold might not do it, but even the smallest spark could, and no-wone can say a running engine can't spit out a spark.

So..sure something like propane (that doesn't puddle), would be nice. So, Chad, are you telling me you know that that there is something better than ether? Is carb cleaner less votile, but evaporates faster?

Something that doesn't burn as well, evaporates at a lower temperature, is safer? Of course I'm "all ears". here. Right now something that is gone within 10 seconds doesn't sound so bad.
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 11:07 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone

OK. I'll need to take that into account. It CAN work for plenty of them, evaporating before it's a much of a fire hazard. Little pissed, but gotcha' Chad. Wtf, Pete, gonna spray it on the lower #6 O ring and have it go in the grille?
Was trying to be kinda funny, picturing a flame thrower under the hood. Oh well my girl friend has told me a million times, I'm not funny! Anyhow don didn't mean to offend you. I like that other thread you and rich got into it in. I'm gonna go check he circuitry to my o2. Have meant to.... Just been lazy.
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