Jeep 4.0 Long Block Swap
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Newbie
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 5
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From: St. Cloud, Minnesota
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
I'm about to do a 4.0 long block swap. Are there any good threads out there on removing the engine from the transmission? Or any on reinstall?
Thanks
Thanks
It's pretty straight forward, I just did the a Long Block swap, I'd pull the engine and tranny together it just makes getting to the bolts easier, I have some striped bolts on the top of the bell housing, Just unhook everything and take out all the bolts. then do the process in reverse
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 301
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From: NJ
Year: 1999 sport 4x4
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
It's pretty straight forward, I just did the a Long Block swap, I'd pull the engine and tranny together it just makes getting to the bolts easier, I have some striped bolts on the top of the bell housing, Just unhook everything and take out all the bolts. then do the process in reverse
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Absolutely not necessary to remove the whole thing. One of the easiest engines to pull I've ever done.
Remove the radiator is all you need to do up front. When unbolting the trans from the engine, remove, or at least loosen, the upper two bolts FIRST. They are E-12 heads. Support the front of the trans with a ratchet strap or floorjack.
Remove the radiator is all you need to do up front. When unbolting the trans from the engine, remove, or at least loosen, the upper two bolts FIRST. They are E-12 heads. Support the front of the trans with a ratchet strap or floorjack.
Last edited by cruiser54; Aug 15, 2012 at 06:12 PM.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 416
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From: Tucson AZ
Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
When I did mine I pulled the intake and header before the motor. I found out that with those out I could reach the E 12 bolts from the top with an off set box end wrench. Was an easy swap.
Last edited by mike mike; Aug 15, 2012 at 06:18 PM.
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I always pull the manifolds first when removing the engine and install them before putting it back in.
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Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: St. Cloud, Minnesota
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
How did you get the bell housing bolts back in with the manifolds on?? That seems impossible unless you dropped the tranny a bit and got it from the back... hmmmmm
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 416
Likes: 0
From: Tucson AZ
Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I had the frame side motor mount towers out already so when we dropped the motor in I got the lower bell housing bolts in then lowered the motor tipping it forward away from the firewall.
This was my first Cherokee swap, so not sure if that was easier than dropping the tranny some, but it worked. Had the manifolds on when we dropped it in.
This was my first Cherokee swap, so not sure if that was easier than dropping the tranny some, but it worked. Had the manifolds on when we dropped it in.
Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 131
Likes: 1
From: Junction City, Kansas
Year: 86/91/92
Model: Comanche
When I rebuilt the 4.0 in my TJ, I set cylinder 1 to TDC on the power stroke and pulled the cam sensor. I marked the cam sensors gear position and set it aside. The fresh block came back from machine shop and I simply did the same thing for installation. #1 TDC on the power stroke and installed the cam sensor. It started and ran fine, but I did take it to the dealer to get it set/calibrated.
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: virginia
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 high output
i think my 4.0 is starting to knock. (yes i have oil in it) i dont really have the place to swap in a new one myself. i was wondering if any of yall had a garage do a swap and how much it cost.
Absolutely not necessary to remove the whole thing. One of the easiest engines to pull I've ever done.
Remove the radiator is all you need to do up front. When unbolting the trans from the engine, remove, or at least loosen, the upper two bolts FIRST. They are E-12 heads. Support the front of the trans with a ratchet strap or floorjack.
Remove the radiator is all you need to do up front. When unbolting the trans from the engine, remove, or at least loosen, the upper two bolts FIRST. They are E-12 heads. Support the front of the trans with a ratchet strap or floorjack.
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