Tim9368

'93 Cherokee 4.0 243K miles
Had some stalling issues that I thought were fixed with cleaning IAC. Then I changed out the fuel filter - it was very clogged - it worked for a while, but it stalled again a few days ago, and I could only get it to run for about 3 minutes one time.

I replaced the IAC and the TPS

I still cannot get it to run

Please Help!!

SlackJaw

when exactly is it stalling out? while driving? coming to a stop? parked?

will it start right back up after it stalls? or does it take time to start up?

Tim9368

At first, it stalled once it warmed up when you came to a light or stop sign. (Cleaned IAC) Then it sputtered and stalled when driving at 30-35 MPH (Changed fuel filter and put in full tank with injector cleaner)
Now it has stalled at normal driving again, and I cannot get it started. I did get it to run for 2-3 min once, by spraying starter fluid in the throttle body, but after that, I can crank it, but it wont catch.

I have changed out the IAC and TPS, still nothing...

SlackJaw

is the motor throwing any codes or is the CEL on?

I had a similar issue, where it would stall out once the jeep was warm when coming to a stop or while I was at a stoplight. I replaced my CPS and it seems to have solved the problem. But yours sounds a bit different b/c your stalling out while driving at speed.

Tim9368

I have not had a chance to check for codes, but the engine light was not on. What is a CPS? Sorry for the first grade questions - I am a new owner and this is really the first car thta I've tried to keep working myself.

Tim9368

OK - Got home today - I had left the battery cable off in the hopes of a computer reset- I was able to get it started. It got to 130-150F and cut out on me (just idling in park). I jump wired the ballast resistor thing and it started up again, but cut out almost immediately. 3x same deal.

lurk520

Does sound very likely to be the crank shaft position sensor, no guarantees though....

Tim9368

I think this thing is possessed! I removed, checked the ballast resistor with my multi-meter. It checked out OK, so I cleaned the terminals and leads really well and replaced it. I also removed and checked the ignition coil. It checked out. I checked the resistance on the coil to cap wire. It reads within normal limits. I also moved some wires around, thinking there might be an arc or something, but I could not find anything that was obviously bad. Put it all back together - she fired up and I drove her around on a few errands and then let her idle in the driveway for ~1 hour.

I have no idea what I did, or if the problem is actually solved. I don't think it will stall on me again until I get it several miles away from home...

I think I'll pull the cps this weekend and test it. I'll also see if she has any codes now that I can get her to the parts store.

wildspear

You can check the crank position sensor while its installed. Just unhook the plug. Put the meter leads on the first and second pin (A and B) and it should show a open loop, no conductivity. Thing is I did this on 2 CPS and it tested fine but they were still bad.

If you go to advanceauto website to get a new CPS try out code A123, it saved me 20bucks when I got mine (yesterday).

SlackJaw

You can use code BIG25 for $25 off $60 order, saves you a couple bucks more.

Tim9368

It was the CPS! Check out the rest of the story on my other thread...

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/int...o-start-84188/

Thank you all for your help, my son (HS Senior) is thrilled to have have his wheels back. I am thrilled that I won't have to keep picking him up at his friends' homes at midnight when he should be getting his tail home on his own.

Thanks again..
-t