Make model of sub and amp?

 

600 watt peak, 300 watt RMS 12in. Kicker Comp S, Alpine MRP M500, I'm running this setup at 4 ohms for 300 RMS

 

I'd try adjusting the settings on both the amp and HU. That box is also a little small, min recommend size for a ported box on that sub is 1.75cuft. I'd recommend at least 8g ground and power as well, I run 4g for mine. I have a 300wrms infinity in a sealed box in the trunk of my car and it will beat your heart for you.

 

Part of the reason I chose the CompVT 6.5 is because it had some of the lowest airspace requirements I could find for a sealed enclosure, and it barely made it at that. The rear cubby doesn't allow for a lot of enclosure volume, especially if you want to keep the sub completely recessed, and if you don't want to cut the back wall of the cubby out. Unless you're willing to do one or both of those things, you're probably not going to get a 10" or 12" sub in that space.

I made a paper template of the back of the cubby, and then used that to create two panels for a front and back of the box. The sides of the box are narrow, only about 1 3/4" wide between the front and rear panels. I used 1/8" pressboard for one side because of the curvature. Then I glued all edges, pnuematic nailed it together to hold it, then ran skinny screws around all the sides and seams to keep it tight. After it sat for awhile I used clear silicon on the inside and outside of the seams to seal it.

The front visible panel is just another piece of 1/8" pressboard cut out to fit the design of the cubby, and then glued and brad nailed to the main box, and then covered in carpet. You may notice the gaps around the edges. Those were intentional as I didn't want the pressboard vibrating against the cubby plastic and making noise. However, the gaps turned out slightly wider than I planned. As it turned out, I was able to find a pristine spare tire cover at the JY that matched my interior, so since the picture was taken I have used that as a second layer of carpet over the first. Now the color is a spot-on match, and the gaps are closed up more.

The whole thing is mounted to the cubby by simply running six #10x1/2" screws through the backside of the rear cubby wall into the wood box. No rattles, no falling out. Oh, one last thing. Before sealing the box up I drilled a small hole and ran my speaker wiring out through there and caulked around the wires. They hook up with a connector to two wires I ran to the back from the amp, which is under the front passenger seat.

 

I have a single 10" in a ported enclosure. I can feel the bass, hear the bass, and vibrate everything in the vehicle any time I want. I have little to no money in the system due to junkyard finds and jeep work for others. System specs out like so:

Kenwood KDC-X995
Factory Infinity Amp
Factory Infinity door tweets
Pioneer 2 way 6.5's in the doors
Pioneer 5.25's in the rear
Kenwood KAC-8014D 300w RMS mono block amp
Phoenix Gold 10" 250w RMS in a ported enclosure

I have issues with everything in my hatch rattling. I took the license plate off to make sure it wasn't that.

 

Thanks everyone for the replies/suggestions. Another question; how much of the wiring (2 door speakers, 2 back speakers, and 1 sub all to an amp under the passenger seat) will be visible from inside the vehicle? I don't really understand how the wiring works in between panels of the car.

 

None if you run it under the carpet or behind the panels.

 

X2 I ran all my wiring for the amp under my carpet

 

what about for the back speakers since they are mounted to the car roof? where do the wires come out? Also, is it very difficult to remove panels if I were to go that route?

 

No its quite easy I just loosened the center consul ran the wires in it and then ran it under the carpet from there. Not sure how the factory speaker bars are wired I added my sound bare after market so I ran wire from the speakers in the bottom of my dash to the speaker bar and removed the factory tweeters.

 

If you're talking about the plastic panels that run along the edge of the headliner, they're easy to remove and put back, just some screws

 

Heres my write up on how I did it



I order a Boss 8ga amp wiring kit from Walmart for my 150watt power series Power Acoustic amp and Black Phantom 10s.
Tools needed:
Good set of wire strippers
Good set of crimpers
Phillips head screw driver
Drill and drill bit about the size of your power wire
Impact with 1/4in nut driver chuck
Pair of dykes
A metal clothes hanger
Radio removal tool
Material needed:
Amp wiring kit of your choice
2 or more self tapping sheet metal screws
A pack of Dolphin butt connections
A pack of female disconnects
Electrical tape or Duct tape either will work fine
A case of beer

I started by taking the dash apart (newer xjs only need to remove the plastic piece from around the radio). There are 4 screws in the plastic piece that goes around the gauge cluster and radio. Two are located above the steering column one is on the left the other is on the right. Take those out then there is one above the headlight switch and cigaret lighter take them out as well. Then just work it loose (be careful it can break very easily) then slide it out of the way this is a tight squeeze but can be done.
__________________
Sub and Amp wiring Write Up:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/am...wiring-164466/

Originally Posted by OEJ https://www.cherokeeforum.com/images/...s/viewpost.gif
signed...the BIGGEST A_HOLE EVER....lmao...
Jay.
Last edited by Slim357; 03-10-2013 at 02:52 PM.

03-10-2013, 03:02 PM #2
Slim357
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Join Date: May 2012
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Remove the radio as well I used the removal tools that cam with my radio. Unplug the antenna and wiring harness from the radio and set it to the side. Then you will need to unscrew the comfort controls there is 2 screws on either side that need removed then just pull it out some so its out of the way (be careful I broke one of the mounting tabs pulling it out).
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03-10-2013, 03:07 PM #3
Slim357
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Then grab your RCA cables and remote wire tape them together with black tape and feed them thru the left side behind the radio mount and begine to feed it down thru the dash. Next grab that wire hanger you have and straighten it out then take the straightest end and bend it like a hook. Then take your hooked end of the hanger and grab the tapped part of the RCA cables and give a little tug to get it all the way thru the dash. Tie the RCA and remote wire to the other wires for the radio so you dont pull them all the way thru the dash like I did. Take a break and have a cold beer this is a pretty good point to do so.
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Last edited by Slim357; 03-10-2013 at 06:36 PM.

03-10-2013, 04:44 PM #4
Slim357
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Then take your wires and feed them thru the floor vent in front of the center console. Remove all the screws holding down the center console as well as the black plastic insert that goes from the shifter to the ebrake handle. next run the power wire and RCA and Remote wire down thru the bottom of the center console to where there is a gap in the carpet. Take the hook end of the hanger and push it thru the underside of the carpet from the back seat area. There is a spot where you can pull the carpet up just enough to pull the wire thru to hide it. Then take the RCA and remote wire and run them under the back of the back seat on the left side and run the power wire on the right side under neath the back seat.
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03-10-2013, 06:13 PM #5
Slim357
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Now carefully strip the power and remote wires. Take the big fork looking brass connection that came with your amp kit and crimp it onto your power wire. Take the smaller fork looking connector and crimp it on your remote wire after you have stripped it. Connect both to there proper spots on your amp. Then strip your ground wire and put the other big fork connection and crimp it on to your wire and connect it to to the proper spot on your amp. Take your ground and strip the other end of it and twist it (make sure its about an inch to inch and a half long) Pull the the trim with the cubby hole away from the jeep enough the get an impact in there. Run the ground thru one of the vent holes. Scrape the paint off of a spot on the metal where you chose to mount it. Put one of your 1/4in self tapping srew 3/4 of the way into the sheet metal where you scrapped the metal clean then take your ground wire and wrap it around your screw then tighten the screw down. Then take your amp and mount it with the hardware included with it. Take you speaker wire and run it into your sub box if you dont have the external hook up jacks for you wire. Take the wire and strip it enough the fit in your female disconnects. Put a piece of wire to connect two of the female disconnects together do this in sets of 2 then twist them together and crimp the wires into 4 of the female disconnects (for DVC). This will allow you to run two 4ohm DVC at 2ohms to the amp (they hit harder) repeat this for your other sub wires as well. Slip the female disconnects onto there appropriate terminals (one set is for + the other is your -) mine was marked on each terminal. Then connect the speaker wires to your amp most amps have screw terminals mine did not it has a plug with wires coming off of it. Just hook up each set of speaker wires to one channel (+,- -,+ this is how most amps are set up each is its own channel some may be different for more then 2 channels). I used the dolphin butt connectors for hooking mine up. Now strip the other end of your remote wire that is sitting in the area ur radio wiring is. Strip the remote wire from your radios wiring harness twist them together and crimp on a dolphin butt connector.
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03-10-2013, 06:30 PM #6
Slim357
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Now all we have left is the power wire. For this I ran it behind the gas and brake peddles over to the what I believe is the cruise control cable not sure but its the only one that has a big garment above the fuse block. I simply drilled a hole with my drill my drill bit was a bit smaller the the wire so I had to round it out quite a bit. After you get the wire thru the garment run it along the fire wall over to the coolant over flow tank then down to the batter. Cut the wire where you are placing your inline fuse strip the wire on both side of the cut and bolt the exposed wire into either side of yose fuse holder. Strip the power wire long enough to be able to double it over and fill the ring connector that came with your kit and make sure there is a solid crimp here. Take the bolt off the positive terminal and take the the ring connector and slide it on the bolt put the nut back on securely. Next you will need to mount your fuse holder. Find where you want it take your impact and 1/4in self tapping screw and drill it into the inside fender wall as high as possible. Now all you have to do is put your dash back together, tune your amp drink a few more beers and enjoy. You dont need a big amp for a good amount of base my little amp pushes my 10s so much it it shake my rear view mirror and I feel it in the back of my seat. Best of luck to you and have fun doing it.
Last edited by Slim357; 03-10-2013 at 06:41 PM.

03-10-2013, 06:34 PM #7
Slim357
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End product should look something like this I also used the split wire loom to cover my speaker wire. Also you should secure the power wire the best you possibly can so you dont have a short down the road. If you have any questions feel free to pm me and I will do my best to answer them.
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There is already wiring to the speakers. Unless you are putting tons of power to your speakers, I wouldn't bother.

 

Wouldn’t bother with what? Re-wiring the new speakers from the head unit to the amp?

 

You could have gotten that done in half the time if not for that case of beer.