injector swap in 90' renix 6 cyl
01-28-2010, 08:49 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Columbia, MO
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.o
injector swap in 90' renix 6 cyl
I want to swap my injectors but cant find which i need and i wonder if its really a simple swap
01-28-2010, 08:54 AM
#2
CF Veteran
Everyone on here complains every time someone asks about the Injector Swap! because its been answered a million times....sort of. In my readings, I have either skipped, or missed the part where they talk about pre-91 vehicles. Mines a 1990 so I've been looking. Some say, oh just buy them they pop right it and turn the key. While others say that (with the same injectors) that you need adapters. I will keep looking and when I find it I will post it here. Until then if someone ACTUALLY knows, please chime in.
01-28-2010, 09:23 AM
#5
CF Veteran
Neo - that would be great, I'd go to the JY this weekend, but I am adopting a dog on Saturday. thanks for any info.
01-28-2010, 02:45 PM
#7
Trending Topics
01-28-2010, 06:33 PM
#9
Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: somerset ky
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I read on here that it it takes the mustang injectors, has to be the orange ones there the 19 pound style, the high output motors take the 24 pound.
01-29-2010, 02:59 AM
#12
With out mentioning part numbers you guys can not be sure you and the other guy are talking about the same thing.
eg colour, even the manufactures state that the colours can change across the one part number.
eg colour, even the manufactures state that the colours can change across the one part number.
01-29-2010, 04:18 AM
#13
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 3,018
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
13 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
The RENIX (1987-1990 4.0L/242ci) will take the Ford 302 or Chevvy 305/350 fuel injectors of similar vintage as a direct swap - the connectors are the same, and the flow rates are close enough to make no odds. They're all early Bosch-style port fuel injectors.
You can get them pulled from a boneyard, but I'm finicky about things like that - and especially paranoid about fuel parts! Engine bay fires blow, believe me.
If you Google FiveO Motorsports, you can get a set of six that have been pulled, cleaned, inspected, and matched - sold as replacements for our beloved sixes. And, it's cheaper than getting an OEM-type replacement. And, the 302/305/350 injectors are "four-hole" units, using four smaller nozzles to atomise the fuel more finely (which confers a small advantage in fuel economy as well!)
While you're waiting for your injectors to show up, get a set of O-rings from the dealer - they'll come as a bag of thirteen (you'll find out why shortly.) Also, get two sets of "fuel rail quick-connect service kits" - they're about twenty bucks a copy, I haven't found a suitable aftermarket replacement yet, and you're going to need them. Stop at the local gun shop and get a couple of 16ga bronze brushes and a cleaning rod that will take them.
The job itself is fairly straightforward.
1) Relieve pressure in the fuel rail. This is important! You don't want fuel spraying everywhere when you disconnect the fuel rail! It helps to have a cup under the Schrader valve at the front of the fuel rail - you're going to want a small amount of clean fuel in a cup anyhow.
2) Take the cup and hold it under the QD fittings as you disconnect them. Collect the fuel that runs out (easier to disconnect the pressure line at the rear first, then the return line at the front. Catch as much fuel as you can.)
3) Toss the new injector O-rings into the clean fuel. NB: If you got your injectors from FiveO Motorports, they may already have new O-rings on them - try to remove them carefully, if you fell up to it. Then toss them in the fuel. If they're loose, just toss them in the fuel and let them soak.
4) Set the cup aside. Get a 1/2" socket and socket wrench, and remove the four screws securing the fuel rail to the intake manifold. (If you lose any, they're 5/16"-18x3/4".)
5) Remove the fuel rail and injectors as an assembly, take it over to the bench, and drain into the cup with the O-rings in it. Set the fuel rail assembly on the bench.
6) Use a small pick, and make sure you've removed two O-rings and one Nylon spacer ring from each of the QD fittings. Visually verify that this has been done. Leaving an O-ring in there will cause a leak! You have one female fitting on the fuel rail (at the fuel pressure regulator) and one in the vehicle (on the pressure/supply line.)
7) Remove the two or three small screws that secure the fuel pressure regulator to the fuel rail, and remove the regulator. Remove the O-ring for the regulator (this is where the thirteenth O-ring goes.)
8) Remove the small stamped clips that hold the fuel injector tops to the fuel rail - they should slide off with a bit of effort. Use longnose pliers, and make sure you have a good grip on them - they like to fly! You'll want to keep these.
9) Remove the fuel injectors from the fuel rail.
10) Visually check the pockets for the fuel injectors in the fuel rail and the intake manifold, cleaning as required (this is what the shotgun brushes were for.) Also check the pocket where the fuel pressure regulator is mounted on the fuel rail, and check the male ends of the QD fittings for anything that shouldn't be on them (there should be nothing.)
11) Hook an O-ring from the cupful of clean fuel with your pick and put it on the top of a new fuel injector. Make sure it's not twisted. Seat the fuel injector in the pocket on the fuel rail, and install the clip. Repeat for all six injectors. (You put the o-rings in the fuel to help soften and lubricate them, so you don't scuff them going into the pockets.)
12) Hook another O-ring, put it on the fuel pressure regulator, and install the regulator to the fuel rail.
13) Working quickly, install an O-ring on the bottom end of each injector. Make sure they're not twisted. Try to keep them wet with fuel.
14) Install the fuel rail as an assembly to the intake manifold. Seat all six of the injectors fully, then reinstall the four screws retaining the fuel rail to the intake manifold.
15) Remove the renewal kits for the QD fittings from the packaging. Insert the fittings into the female side of the quick connects, and remove the Nylon mandrel from the fitting. You should leave the O-rings, spacer ring, and Nylon "ears" in place when doing this.
16) Insert the male end of the QD fitting until you hear a slight "click" indicating that the fitting is fully seated. (NB: These connections should be renewd any and every time they are separated. The odds are better than even that you'll get a leak if you try to reuse the O-rings. No, I don't like them either.)
17) Turn the key to ON and check the fuel rail for leaks. Correct as required.
18) Cycle the key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON, pausing for about ten seconds at each ON, to prime and pressurise the fuel system. Check for leaks again.
19) If no leaks, start the vehicle. Go back underhood and manually "blip" the throttle to check for leaks again (you get the idea that I really don't want you to have a leak anywhere?) Chances are, if you do note a leak, you've scuffed an O-ring and will have to replace it.
20) If no leaks, have a beer! You're done!
I've done this a few times, and I can usually get it all done inside of an hour. If you're taking your time (and you're properly paranoid for a first effort...) allow ninety minutes to two hours. You probably won't need all of it, but allow for it.
You can get them pulled from a boneyard, but I'm finicky about things like that - and especially paranoid about fuel parts! Engine bay fires blow, believe me.
If you Google FiveO Motorsports, you can get a set of six that have been pulled, cleaned, inspected, and matched - sold as replacements for our beloved sixes. And, it's cheaper than getting an OEM-type replacement. And, the 302/305/350 injectors are "four-hole" units, using four smaller nozzles to atomise the fuel more finely (which confers a small advantage in fuel economy as well!)
While you're waiting for your injectors to show up, get a set of O-rings from the dealer - they'll come as a bag of thirteen (you'll find out why shortly.) Also, get two sets of "fuel rail quick-connect service kits" - they're about twenty bucks a copy, I haven't found a suitable aftermarket replacement yet, and you're going to need them. Stop at the local gun shop and get a couple of 16ga bronze brushes and a cleaning rod that will take them.
The job itself is fairly straightforward.
1) Relieve pressure in the fuel rail. This is important! You don't want fuel spraying everywhere when you disconnect the fuel rail! It helps to have a cup under the Schrader valve at the front of the fuel rail - you're going to want a small amount of clean fuel in a cup anyhow.
2) Take the cup and hold it under the QD fittings as you disconnect them. Collect the fuel that runs out (easier to disconnect the pressure line at the rear first, then the return line at the front. Catch as much fuel as you can.)
3) Toss the new injector O-rings into the clean fuel. NB: If you got your injectors from FiveO Motorports, they may already have new O-rings on them - try to remove them carefully, if you fell up to it. Then toss them in the fuel. If they're loose, just toss them in the fuel and let them soak.
4) Set the cup aside. Get a 1/2" socket and socket wrench, and remove the four screws securing the fuel rail to the intake manifold. (If you lose any, they're 5/16"-18x3/4".)
5) Remove the fuel rail and injectors as an assembly, take it over to the bench, and drain into the cup with the O-rings in it. Set the fuel rail assembly on the bench.
6) Use a small pick, and make sure you've removed two O-rings and one Nylon spacer ring from each of the QD fittings. Visually verify that this has been done. Leaving an O-ring in there will cause a leak! You have one female fitting on the fuel rail (at the fuel pressure regulator) and one in the vehicle (on the pressure/supply line.)
7) Remove the two or three small screws that secure the fuel pressure regulator to the fuel rail, and remove the regulator. Remove the O-ring for the regulator (this is where the thirteenth O-ring goes.)
8) Remove the small stamped clips that hold the fuel injector tops to the fuel rail - they should slide off with a bit of effort. Use longnose pliers, and make sure you have a good grip on them - they like to fly! You'll want to keep these.
9) Remove the fuel injectors from the fuel rail.
10) Visually check the pockets for the fuel injectors in the fuel rail and the intake manifold, cleaning as required (this is what the shotgun brushes were for.) Also check the pocket where the fuel pressure regulator is mounted on the fuel rail, and check the male ends of the QD fittings for anything that shouldn't be on them (there should be nothing.)
11) Hook an O-ring from the cupful of clean fuel with your pick and put it on the top of a new fuel injector. Make sure it's not twisted. Seat the fuel injector in the pocket on the fuel rail, and install the clip. Repeat for all six injectors. (You put the o-rings in the fuel to help soften and lubricate them, so you don't scuff them going into the pockets.)
12) Hook another O-ring, put it on the fuel pressure regulator, and install the regulator to the fuel rail.
13) Working quickly, install an O-ring on the bottom end of each injector. Make sure they're not twisted. Try to keep them wet with fuel.
14) Install the fuel rail as an assembly to the intake manifold. Seat all six of the injectors fully, then reinstall the four screws retaining the fuel rail to the intake manifold.
15) Remove the renewal kits for the QD fittings from the packaging. Insert the fittings into the female side of the quick connects, and remove the Nylon mandrel from the fitting. You should leave the O-rings, spacer ring, and Nylon "ears" in place when doing this.
16) Insert the male end of the QD fitting until you hear a slight "click" indicating that the fitting is fully seated. (NB: These connections should be renewd any and every time they are separated. The odds are better than even that you'll get a leak if you try to reuse the O-rings. No, I don't like them either.)
17) Turn the key to ON and check the fuel rail for leaks. Correct as required.
18) Cycle the key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON, pausing for about ten seconds at each ON, to prime and pressurise the fuel system. Check for leaks again.
19) If no leaks, start the vehicle. Go back underhood and manually "blip" the throttle to check for leaks again (you get the idea that I really don't want you to have a leak anywhere?) Chances are, if you do note a leak, you've scuffed an O-ring and will have to replace it.
20) If no leaks, have a beer! You're done!
I've done this a few times, and I can usually get it all done inside of an hour. If you're taking your time (and you're properly paranoid for a first effort...) allow ninety minutes to two hours. You probably won't need all of it, but allow for it.
01-29-2010, 07:59 AM
#14
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Stafford,VA
Posts: 2,543
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Cant speak for Chevy But not all the 302's had the 4 hole Injectors(mustangs did not)....They mainly started in the 5.0 302 Ford Explorer/Mountaineer than they came in almost ALL 4.6L Ford Vehicles...They are Orange and Skinny...commonly called "stick" style Injectors...They work great, i run a set in my 98 Cherokee.
