Initial start up takes two switch cycles to crank
#1
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Location: Alabama
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Initial start up takes two switch cycles to crank
2000 XJ Sport 4.0L
Aw4
95K MILES
When first starting for the day or if the Jeep sits for over an hour, I must spin the engine over a few seconds...stop...then on the second try it will fire up. It will not fire up the first time no matter how long you hold it. Jeep runs fine after that.
I am thinking tune up and fuel filter but....
Before I started replacing fuel system parts and so on, I figured I would ask here if there were any issues with these Jeeps that may have been a defect causing what I described here.
Thank you
Aw4
95K MILES
When first starting for the day or if the Jeep sits for over an hour, I must spin the engine over a few seconds...stop...then on the second try it will fire up. It will not fire up the first time no matter how long you hold it. Jeep runs fine after that.
I am thinking tune up and fuel filter but....
Before I started replacing fuel system parts and so on, I figured I would ask here if there were any issues with these Jeeps that may have been a defect causing what I described here.
Thank you
#3
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#5
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Year: 1998 Sport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Next time you go to start it, Try to poor mans prime. Turn the key to the on so you hear the pump prime(Do Not Start) then turn off the key and prime it again. Try that for 2 or 3 times the start it. If it start with no problem more then likely you do have a bad check valve as someone mentioned. You can run it lick that for many years with out any ill effect.
#6
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Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
Except for the fact you are wearing out your ignition cylinder. And goosing all the electrical stuff three to four times more than it was designed for.
Heck just fix it.
Heck just fix it.
#7
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The check valves (there are two of them; the primary one is on the fuel pressure regulator and a secondary one can be found on the fuel pump itself) are part of the fuel pump assembly on 95.5-2001 vintage 4.0 XJs. When a check valve starts to fail, it can reduce fuel pressure to a point where an extended cranking time is needed to start the engine. It is a very common failure. I experienced it on my 99 at around 75K.
A good (and simple) first step in helping you troubleshoot this problem is called “the poor mans prime”
1. Turn key to ON position (do not crank the engine!)
2. The fuel pump will energize and run for about 2 seconds. Be sure to wait until it stops running.
3. Turn key to OFF position
4. Repeat above steps 1-3 two more times
5. NOW crank the engine over
If the engine starts quickly and cleanly after performing this procedure, you may have a check valve issue. If it starts and runs poorly for a few seconds, it could also be a leaky fuel injector resulting in the fuel pressure leaking down and the subsequent stumble upon startup is the engine clearing the excess fuel that has leaked into the cylinder because of the faulty injector.
Also be aware that a bad battery can give you starting symptoms as well. Have your battery load tested (any parts store will do this for free) if you have any doubt; your XJ does NOT like low available battery voltage. Be sure battery connections and posts are CLEAN.
Some troubleshooting tips for extended crank times. You will need a fuel pressure gauge. Many parts stores will rent you this tool inexpensively.
*Hook up fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve on the fuel rail under the hood
*Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature.
*Observe fuel pressure gauge. Normal operating pressure should be 49.2 psi (plus or minus 5 psi)
*Shut engine off.
*Observe pressure on gauge. Pressure should not fall below 30 psi for five minutes.
If pressure falls below 30 psi, it must be determined if a fuel injector, a check valve within the
fuel pump assembly, or a fuel tube/line is leaking. An adaptor tool/hose normally included with the fuel pressure gauge can help you with this. Consult the manual that comes with the fuel pressure gauge and the Factory Service Manual for your year XJ for more information on this exact procedure, but here is basically how it works:
*Turn the engine off and immediately clamp the fuel line at the adaptor hose. Watch the pressure gauge and see how long it takes to lose pressure.
*If the pressure remains at 49 psi for an extended period of time then the problem is in the tank – most likely a check valve. If the pressure falls below 49 psi fairly rapidly then the problem is probably a leaky fuel injector.
**Note. Where check valve is suspect, a quick loss of fuel pressure is often the fuel pressure regulator check valve and a slow loss of pressure is often the fuel pump check valve. But keep in mind that either or both check valves can be to blame.
You can limp a check valve problem along indefinitely if you like, as it doesn't mean the fuel pump itself is going to fail. Perform the “poor mans prime” before cranking to speed up your starts. However, if you have a check valve issue and want to resolve it, it is recommended that you replace the entire fuel pump assembly for two reasons. First, you have to drop the gas tank to access the assembly. Secondly, with two check valves, replacing just the fuel pressure regulator where one of the check valve resides may or may not resolve your problem; remember there are two check valves; the other check valve is part of the fuel pump.
The fuel pump assembly consists of fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel gauge sending unit, fuel gauge float, pickup filter and pigtail wiring harness. If you do replace the fuel pump assembly, purchase a high quality assembly. Know this….you do get what you pay for here. Some cheap aftermarket assemblies have been known to fail prematurely. I personally prefer Bosch fuel pumps as they manufacture the best fuel pump assemblies for the XJ. Carter is my second choice. Airtex is my least favorite choice and I will not recommend or install them. A search will show you why.
A good (and simple) first step in helping you troubleshoot this problem is called “the poor mans prime”
1. Turn key to ON position (do not crank the engine!)
2. The fuel pump will energize and run for about 2 seconds. Be sure to wait until it stops running.
3. Turn key to OFF position
4. Repeat above steps 1-3 two more times
5. NOW crank the engine over
If the engine starts quickly and cleanly after performing this procedure, you may have a check valve issue. If it starts and runs poorly for a few seconds, it could also be a leaky fuel injector resulting in the fuel pressure leaking down and the subsequent stumble upon startup is the engine clearing the excess fuel that has leaked into the cylinder because of the faulty injector.
Also be aware that a bad battery can give you starting symptoms as well. Have your battery load tested (any parts store will do this for free) if you have any doubt; your XJ does NOT like low available battery voltage. Be sure battery connections and posts are CLEAN.
Some troubleshooting tips for extended crank times. You will need a fuel pressure gauge. Many parts stores will rent you this tool inexpensively.
*Hook up fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve on the fuel rail under the hood
*Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature.
*Observe fuel pressure gauge. Normal operating pressure should be 49.2 psi (plus or minus 5 psi)
*Shut engine off.
*Observe pressure on gauge. Pressure should not fall below 30 psi for five minutes.
If pressure falls below 30 psi, it must be determined if a fuel injector, a check valve within the
fuel pump assembly, or a fuel tube/line is leaking. An adaptor tool/hose normally included with the fuel pressure gauge can help you with this. Consult the manual that comes with the fuel pressure gauge and the Factory Service Manual for your year XJ for more information on this exact procedure, but here is basically how it works:
*Turn the engine off and immediately clamp the fuel line at the adaptor hose. Watch the pressure gauge and see how long it takes to lose pressure.
*If the pressure remains at 49 psi for an extended period of time then the problem is in the tank – most likely a check valve. If the pressure falls below 49 psi fairly rapidly then the problem is probably a leaky fuel injector.
**Note. Where check valve is suspect, a quick loss of fuel pressure is often the fuel pressure regulator check valve and a slow loss of pressure is often the fuel pump check valve. But keep in mind that either or both check valves can be to blame.
You can limp a check valve problem along indefinitely if you like, as it doesn't mean the fuel pump itself is going to fail. Perform the “poor mans prime” before cranking to speed up your starts. However, if you have a check valve issue and want to resolve it, it is recommended that you replace the entire fuel pump assembly for two reasons. First, you have to drop the gas tank to access the assembly. Secondly, with two check valves, replacing just the fuel pressure regulator where one of the check valve resides may or may not resolve your problem; remember there are two check valves; the other check valve is part of the fuel pump.
The fuel pump assembly consists of fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel gauge sending unit, fuel gauge float, pickup filter and pigtail wiring harness. If you do replace the fuel pump assembly, purchase a high quality assembly. Know this….you do get what you pay for here. Some cheap aftermarket assemblies have been known to fail prematurely. I personally prefer Bosch fuel pumps as they manufacture the best fuel pump assemblies for the XJ. Carter is my second choice. Airtex is my least favorite choice and I will not recommend or install them. A search will show you why.
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