The Infamous cLuNk
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 425
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From: MI
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I started diagnosing the clunk in my auto Cherokee today. Anytime I shift into Drive or Reverse, I get a nasty clunk that almost sounds like I have a busted U-joint. My Jeep has done this ever since I got it 2 years ago. It seems to be worse if I go from Reverse to Drive without pausing in Neutral.
I have done alot of research on this the last week or so. I have probably read every thread on every forum on Al Gores world wide web about this topic. Everything from low tranny fluid, low t-case oil, wore out/broken u-joints, slack in the ring and pin, no grease on the SY, problems with the t-case linkage, to whatever else. Spent some time looking though the owners manual, and the Haynes Manual.
I had enough of the clunk today, and got out my creeper to investigate. As I slid out on my 4 x 6 peice of cardboard, I noticed that part of my problem was the rear u-joint. It wasnt broken, but one of the caps was loose, which is no good. Im not convinced that is the only problem though. I had a buddy of mine climb in and start it up. He began shifting in between gears, with his foot on the brake. Not hard, but just like you normally would. My clunk was coming from the t-case, no doubt about it. Unless the hard shift was resulting from somewhere else (tranny?), and causing the hard clunk in the t-case. Tomorrow I will be replacing theu-joint and the t-case oil.
If I have left anything out, please feel free criticize my judgement.
I have done alot of research on this the last week or so. I have probably read every thread on every forum on Al Gores world wide web about this topic. Everything from low tranny fluid, low t-case oil, wore out/broken u-joints, slack in the ring and pin, no grease on the SY, problems with the t-case linkage, to whatever else. Spent some time looking though the owners manual, and the Haynes Manual.
I had enough of the clunk today, and got out my creeper to investigate. As I slid out on my 4 x 6 peice of cardboard, I noticed that part of my problem was the rear u-joint. It wasnt broken, but one of the caps was loose, which is no good. Im not convinced that is the only problem though. I had a buddy of mine climb in and start it up. He began shifting in between gears, with his foot on the brake. Not hard, but just like you normally would. My clunk was coming from the t-case, no doubt about it. Unless the hard shift was resulting from somewhere else (tranny?), and causing the hard clunk in the t-case. Tomorrow I will be replacing theu-joint and the t-case oil.
If I have left anything out, please feel free criticize my judgement.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,158
Likes: 11
From: Chico,ca
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I started diagnosing the clunk in my auto Cherokee today. Anytime I shift into Drive or Reverse, I get a nasty clunk that almost sounds like I have a busted U-joint. My Jeep has done this ever since I got it 2 years ago. It seems to be worse if I go from Reverse to Drive without pausing in Neutral.
I have done alot of research on this the last week or so. I have probably read every thread on every forum on Al Gores world wide web about this topic. Everything from low tranny fluid, low t-case oil, wore out/broken u-joints, slack in the ring and pin, no grease on the SY, problems with the t-case linkage, to whatever else. Spent some time looking though the owners manual, and the Haynes Manual.
I had enough of the clunk today, and got out my creeper to investigate. As I slid out on my 4 x 6 peice of cardboard, I noticed that part of my problem was the rear u-joint. It wasnt broken, but one of the caps was loose, which is no good. Im not convinced that is the only problem though. I had a buddy of mine climb in and start it up. He began shifting in between gears, with his foot on the brake. Not hard, but just like you normally would. My clunk was coming from the t-case, no doubt about it. Unless the hard shift was resulting from somewhere else (tranny?), and causing the hard clunk in the t-case. Tomorrow I will be replacing theu-joint and the t-case oil.
If I have left anything out, please feel free criticize my judgement.
I have done alot of research on this the last week or so. I have probably read every thread on every forum on Al Gores world wide web about this topic. Everything from low tranny fluid, low t-case oil, wore out/broken u-joints, slack in the ring and pin, no grease on the SY, problems with the t-case linkage, to whatever else. Spent some time looking though the owners manual, and the Haynes Manual.
I had enough of the clunk today, and got out my creeper to investigate. As I slid out on my 4 x 6 peice of cardboard, I noticed that part of my problem was the rear u-joint. It wasnt broken, but one of the caps was loose, which is no good. Im not convinced that is the only problem though. I had a buddy of mine climb in and start it up. He began shifting in between gears, with his foot on the brake. Not hard, but just like you normally would. My clunk was coming from the t-case, no doubt about it. Unless the hard shift was resulting from somewhere else (tranny?), and causing the hard clunk in the t-case. Tomorrow I will be replacing theu-joint and the t-case oil.
If I have left anything out, please feel free criticize my judgement.
Renix Super Guru
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 24,653
Likes: 19
From: In yourz postez fissin jurr spelinzs
Year: 1990XJ/1989MJ
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0L Renix
If you open the transfercase to check the chain you should replace the pump at the same time. Doubt that the transfercase chain is your clunk but you never know.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 5
Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
Did you check the slack in the ring and pinion how i told u? (or was it to someone else... boh?) anyway put the transmission in N and apply hand brake, and check the rotational play of the drive shaft (after you replaced the u joint), if it's more than half inch it's them. Ah, if you have a locker installed (detroit and similiar) it could be normal.
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CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 5
Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 425
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From: MI
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
After you replace the u-joint just keep checking until you resolve the issue,it does not hurt to change the fluid in your xfer case but it will not stop any play you may have. I have to ask this question so please understand,you know the xfer case uses trany fluid not gear oil?

Did you check the slack in the ring and pinion how i told u? (or was it to someone else... boh?) anyway put the transmission in N and apply hand brake, and check the rotational play of the drive shaft (after you replaced the u joint), if it's more than half inch it's them. Ah, if you have a locker installed (detroit and similiar) it could be normal.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,734
Likes: 12
Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
Had the same problem on my recenly purchased '92 Laredo. Checked T-case fluid level 3 months ago, it was OK. I went ahead and changed the fluid last week anyway. That seemed to help.
Replaced both rear driveshaft U-joints yesterday. (Had greased them previously 2 months ago).
My Laredo has 182,000 miles on it and not much has been done to it. I am steadily replacing original parts due to age/wear/peace of mind.
The T-case fluid change seemed to help the most. The U-joint change from yesterday is a little to early to tell, but I think its better.
This Laredo has a locking rear differential. Every once in a while at creeping speeds, I can feel a little ratcheting action back there from I guess the side gears. There is a small pinion seal leak, but the fluid level is OK. You can see where grease has slung up underneath through the years.
I will probably change the diff fluid with 80W90 and the limited slip additive within the next month or so.
Replaced both rear driveshaft U-joints yesterday. (Had greased them previously 2 months ago).
My Laredo has 182,000 miles on it and not much has been done to it. I am steadily replacing original parts due to age/wear/peace of mind.
The T-case fluid change seemed to help the most. The U-joint change from yesterday is a little to early to tell, but I think its better.
This Laredo has a locking rear differential. Every once in a while at creeping speeds, I can feel a little ratcheting action back there from I guess the side gears. There is a small pinion seal leak, but the fluid level is OK. You can see where grease has slung up underneath through the years.
I will probably change the diff fluid with 80W90 and the limited slip additive within the next month or so.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 425
Likes: 0
From: MI
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 7
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
Its called preventive maintenance... why would u change the timing belt/chain when the book tells you too if its still runnig fine???? because if u dont and it snaps and slings around in your engine youll be buying a new engine... vs. replacing a chain/belt... preventative maintenance... thats like asking why change your oil if its not broken yet?? lol... sorry guys i just thought it was funny u guys found this amazing.. lol
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 425
Likes: 0
From: MI
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Anyway, I'll be headed home tonight to get my hands dirty. I have to go home to my parents house to do any work on the jeep. The condo community wont let me work on the jeep in the driveway. They have really strict rules on draining fluids and leaving parts in the driveway.
(Although there have been successful night time oil changes)



next time let me know i will do it for 30