Ill have to try that too thanks. And by the way, I get paid every 2 weeks. I had to wait a month for my first check. That sucked

 

If you unplug the battery on a Renix Jeep the engine dies immediately, and i am pretty sure it is so also with a chrysler injection.

 

In a battle of witts, ignorance cannot be defeated. Let him believe what he wants, everyone else knows it's wrong. Let's stick on the topic of a guy with an engine that doesn't like to run and cuts out.

 

It's the fuel pump.

 

I had the came prob with my xj. It was the O2 sensor.. Good way to check is to unplug it then drive and see if it quits..

 

Yeah where the air filter bolts to the tb with 4 bolts. Take that off and clean out all around and all sides of the throttle plate. Then replace that top seal of the tb. Give that a try. And shoot some carb cleaner in while your at it.

 

Was thinking about also pulling the intake manifold off, since I inject on the TB who knows what kind of buildup I could have down there that wouldn't be fully cleaned out w/o pulling it off. Only concern is that with the intake and exhaust stacked, I dont want to mess up the gasket cause then I have to try and get my header loose to replace it.

 

If you take the intake off, i strongly recommend replacing the gasket, which means you have to unbolt the exhaust manifold as well. Especially for this gasket it is usually not a good idea to reuse them. Vacuum leaks wreck havoc on our engines.

 

dukie explained all that. Did you go get your battery tested? Many auto parts stores will do this for free. If that's not an option and you have a multimeter you can do a quick voltage test. A healthy battery should show ~ 12.6 volts (engine off) and ~ 14 volts (engine running). Battery test should be done 1st then get back to us.

 

Oh, by "messing up" the gasket, I meant if I take it off it'll be messed up and have to be replaced. I think I'll go that route though, My exhaust bolts are nice and shiney, so they've been replaced recently, they shouldn't be rust locked and sealed, a little penetrating oil and I should be as good as gold

 

Yes, it is clear that I do not know what I am talking about, I am done with the ignorent board. Final thought, the jeep is going down the road and has issues, if it was the battery it would be a consistant issue then just a random occurance down the road. But, meh, what do I know. You desk jockies know better then a Tech.

 

ok, w/o looking at any posts yet:
TPS
IAC vlave
plugs/wires
cap/rotor
gas lines
coil
injectors (unlikely)
o2 sensors (up/down stream)
fuel pump/filter assembly (mine is one whole unit- 99xj)
these are all considerations in my book. and with the exception of the last 3 on the list, these are all things ive done to try and fix the same prob with mine... it was fixed, too! then it came back. what ive noticed is that it will do it with low idle, but never with high idle... hence the IAC valve. i got one for cheap off line, and as far as i know its a quality part... good luck!!!

 

Ok, nobody is saying you absolutely don't know what your talking about, your obviously a mechanic, I heard you diagnosing the issues, you sound like you know what your talking about, I'll agree with you that SOME vehicles can run w/o the battery hooked up. Although I've never actually seen one actually run decent w/o it hooked up. I've also seen cars that when running perfectly when you unhook the battery they die instantly.
I am a desk jockey. But I grew up poor and worked on all of our vehicles with my dad. Worked in a mechanic shop. I also know my way around a car. I am an IT who can get off of work on a Friday and have a Chevy 350 torn apart and rebuilt before going to work Monday morning.

So don't get your panties in a bunch because someone disagreed with you on one subject. And desk jockey's do have the ability to work on cars as well.

 

The problem that I am having it is not about someone disagreeing with me. I can handle someone having a different opinion then me with no issue, the issues come when some tells me I am wrong and fails to give proof why. I never said Desk Jockeys don't have the abilty to work on cars, but there is a difference in thinking between someone that works on cars for a living then someone that works on them during the weekend. Also, some cars have fail safes that save the Alternator from being killed when the battery is disconnected, because as I have agreed Running the car without the battery isn't healthy. Also, the one fact that has been over looked and I never said it because as a Tech it is assumed, the Battery is fine, does the Jeep start in the morning? Does it start everytime you get in it? If it does, there is nothing wrong with your Battery. Yes, The TPS is very sensitive to Voltage, but that is the job of a Voltage regulator to control that and not the battery. I was trying very hard to have you understand that the battery isn't the problem, TPS's tend to not throw trouble codes. O2 Sensors throw codes all the time because the EPA dies a little on the inside when one goes bad. A fuel pump is possible but I doubt it since you can keep the Jeep from dieing by pushing the throttle to the floor also on the same note the Fuel line/rail would be ruled out on that, true they can do what is called Vapor lock. When Vapor lock happens you can't save it by hitting fuel throttle. Ignition like the Spark plug, wires, cap/rotor aren't going to care if you are at full throttle or not. Now a coil can do that, they tend to be random and make it hard to Diag at times. The problem you are having is something not easily diag'd without the right tools, run the codes, Jeeps and most cars for that matter can throw codes and never turn on the MIL, or the Check Engine Light. My suggestion is, do the simple stuff, before you spend money on replacing the TPS or IAC, make sure the connections are strong. Make sure they are clean, beware of taking the IAC apart, there is a weak gasket that is easily broken along with it. Also, a word to the wise and as a Tech bringing us something that is Random with no obvious signs can cost you alot of money in Diag hours, unless people at Jeep know a fix for that. Your best bet is go to a Jeep dealer and talk to the parts guys, alot of the parts guys are old techs that have killed their bodys doing full line for 20 years, they might be able to help you out for free, well if they are cool, beware of the 30 year tech/part guy, he cares about nothing just waiting out his time so he can retire and isn't going to help anyone lol. I am sorry for flaming Desk Jockies, just when you have a piece of paper saying you are Ford Certified in Electrical Diag it tends to get under your skin when simple Electrical fuctions in a car are explained and you get told you are wrong and don't know what you are talking about. Btw, just as a sign, I asked twice how the battery could cause that issue after not being showed how the battery itself could cause that issue I got pissed being told I was wrong.

 

Thanks for the pleasentry, I'll agree with ya on your entire post, as for this little snippet, I explained that I once had a battery that was almost shot, I cant get a vid as I don't have the vehicle anymore, it was a 71 Waggy with the Buick 350. It would miss and sputter until I replaced my battery. I said that before not sure you caught it.

The best thing in forum's is to realize that very few people are going to agree on anything, turbo vs supercharge, body lift vs suspension lift, etc.....

If you truly want to help the person asking the question, answer it to the best of your knowledge, and ignore everyone's hazing that comes your way.

And I am sorry for the comment I made speaking about you negatively.