RedFang

I've had enough, I'm at the end of my mechanical and automotive skill and I really need to get my cherokee running properly. So basically this is what I have done and still the vehicle hates me.

Drove cross country, system would loose power when below 1/2 tank of gas, so nursed it along with gas fill ups.

Installed new fuel pump/strainer, cracked electrical connection pieces on sending unit.

Patched Sending unit with fuel tank sealant.

Went driving off road and hit the ground hard, lost sensor and shift control, regained sort of, but not completely

Discovered cracked vacuum lines.

Engine dies constantly

Replaced Idle Air Control.

No fix

Replaced Throttle Position Sensor.

No fix

Basically the vehicle will idle but there has to be some sort of vacuum/electrical connection that's lose that I can't find. The engine dies and dies and I'm sick and tired of wasting my time into fixing it myself, so I'm going to drop it off at the dealer Friday.

:*(

EVcherokee

Have some hope man, I bet by Saturday, maybe Friday, you'll have this figured out. Theres some smart guys on this board and between all of us, we've seen it all and done it all..some of us have done too much... I'm not one of the sharpest knives, but I like to help where I can, because this forum has steered me in the right direction on numerous occasions and saved me TONS of $$$$.

First, we need a better description on whats going on and what you've done so far..

Is it still dying when its under half a tank?

So your sending unit and pump assembly are working properly?

What sensor and what shift control did you lose when you went offroad?, whats it doing now? we need details..

Cracked vacuum lines? Where are they? What are they for? did you fix them?

Engine dies? when its warm, when its cold, when your driving, randomly..what? any symptoms leading up to it dying(bogs down, sputters etc.)

We can help you track down vacuum leaks but we need details. have you checked for vacuum leaks at the manifold? Maybe you just need to re install your intake. Have you blocked off vacuum lines for the HVAC system to see how it runs?

We can help you track down parts too if thats a concern.. hang in there bud.

mwdouglas

x2^^^^^^^^ have faith brother you can do it with the knowledge you will gain from this forum and a little more patience and faith in yourself you can fix it

RedFang

Well, it dies so often I can't even get to below half a tank so not sure.

I'm pretty sure the fuel and sending unit are working, I press gas pedal I get rev, but then it dies afterwards.

I lost tachometer, speedometer, and battery went high, and I couldn't get out of 2nd gear, automatic trans.

Vacuum lines go to cruise control, did not fix them, not enough time.

Engine sometimes will not idle at all, engine will die right after idle, engine will die when placed into reverse, or drive, and also when a bump in the road rattles the vehicle, so pretty much anything vibration.

Odd thing was, engine would not stay one unless I removed some vacuum line caps, if I plugged the vacuum lines it would die.

If I drop my hood hard it dies.

When it dies it shutters and surges and gives up. Other times it just quietly goes to sleep.

I don't have the jeep right now it's parked 20 miles away at my friends house, he drove me home. I'm going to eat thanksgiving and then have it towed, the nearest parts store is where the jeep dealer is.

Also no matter what I do, my ODBII still reads Idle Air System Error Code

I searched all the wires and even under the dash and I can't fine anything wrong.

Also after it dies, it takes FOREVER to get started again.

EVcherokee

Can you have it towed somewhere else, somewhere you can work on it and really tear into it? Maybe your buddy is ok with it there for a few days? Might be kinda hard to help you out with the rig so far away.

You got a lot going on and if you take it to the dealer...your wallet is going to experience dry **** rape among other horrible things. AAAPlus is $80 a year and you get 3 free tows within 100 miles if that helps at all. You might want to asses options before you commit to the Stealership. Think logistics, what you have, what you can get and when you can get it.

I'm not OBDII savvy, but there other guys here that are understand upside and down.

Not sure on your jeep, but the Speedo and Tach might be a ECU problem('96 is out of my "range"), if it isthe ECU, the stealership will charge you so much...decide on friskie cat or 9 lives cause you'll be eating cat food for years. A JY ECU can be had for 40-50 bucks.

Battery went high? did it explode?(thats a joke, but I've seen it actually happen, for different reasons too) Most battery fry's are from over charging which is a ECU function on your rig(I'm not %100)

It being stuck in second gear is probably your Neutral Safety Switch and those can be cleaned out(that usually whats wrong with them)

If your wiring to the fuel pump is sketchy just fix it, might be a trip to the JY for a new harness or maybe a new pump assembly all together..stealership will charger you 5X what a parts house would plus the $65 an hour to install it.

Even though you got alot going on, it sounds like you got one problem thats crapping on your head and a couple little ones that are rubbing it in. We don't want any of our fellow XJer's eating cat food for years!!

Go eat some bird tommorow, build your moral up and regroup. Break down the mission into objectives, figure out your logistics and attack each objective individually until their all under your size 12's. Eazy Pezy Japonezy

RedFang

:| Sadly no one I know owns a truck that can tow it, and I really really wish I would have just went into debt on a Chevy Silverado right now because at least I could tow it myself then.

The cost to have it towed to the dealer is $175 + the cost just to diagnose the problem $200+. Then tack on labor and any potential parts...

The battery didn't explose, the electrical gause went to 19V and stayed there, to include GEN warning light, however after removing the negative terminal for a few minutes and gauge has stayed in the normal zone.

EVcherokee

AAAPlus...3 free tows $80 a year. You can sign up and have a tow truck on the way in the same conversation. You could also rent a uhaul van with a tow dolly. I don't think you realize how much the dealership will rape you for, but if you already have your mind made up, why ask for help?

For $175 I could have it towed to the dealership and back to you buddies house 3 times and have enough for beer left over!

Triple A membership, $80 + free diagnosis here +free labor from you + WAY cheaper parts + you can keep some pride.

Sleep on it, worry about it tommorow night..


http://www.AAA.com

EVcherokee

That right there screams ECU problems...

RedFang

Rock Auto lists ECU at $250 I wish I didn't have a ECU now.

EVcherokee

Or you could pay yourself $200 to go to a pull a part and get it for $50. For laughs call the dealership and see what they want!

If you want to ditch the ECU, you could swap to a carb and a normal dizzy, thats what I'm in the process of doing. Willn't pass emmisions, but I could do it on my rig for about $250

iTouchMe

Here is one on ebay.

EVcherokee

Just checked the price sheet for my pull a part and they only charge $8.50 for a working ECU.

RedFang

The primary problem is the engine won't stay on. What could cause a engine to die? Why would the engine not accept intake through the normal means, instead it wanted me to open up the throttle body to unfiltered air?

RedFang

What is a pull a part? Also are any of them open near Edwards AFB California this week?

CRoading

I know you're kinda frustrated after all the works you have done to fix your jeep... Lets just hope that the dealer have the answer to your jeep's problem...