When you loosen the jamnut, you'll be able to pop the cable ends out of the equalizer. Then you have to clamp around the sides of where the cables mount into the metal box that whole assembly is in. It's kind of a pain, not sure if there's a special tool for it? I suppose they could seize, after all its a Jeep--anything could lock up! lol

 

Maybe undo both ends of the e brake cable and see that it's free? Or maybe with two people it could be checked without undoing the business at the "junction". (one holding the wheel end, and one working the lever)

I've just got to mention, there where some changes there, lets say between 89 and 91. Posters have had trouble with getting the wrong parts and things rubbing. Doesn't really sound like your issue, it had to do with the drum rubbing somewhere. Idk, just wanted to mention that. I don't think there is any reason not to try swapping drums right to left....for lack of a better idea!

 

When I pop the cable ends out the equalizer will the cables then be slack and ebrake disengaged?

 

Gonna hopefully take advantage of the warm weather and fix this tomorrow. If the ebrake cable is in fact stuck, will loosening the jam nut disable and release ebrake tension?

Thanks

 

Once to the front. Is the jam nut the only thing holding the ebrake cables for each side to the one cable to the lever?

 

Not quite. The cables snap into the housing around the equalizer, however once you do loosen the equalizer, tension should be eased. If it doesn't, you might be stuck.

 

Stuck as in how?

 

Stuck as in cable frozen. But i'm not sure that's likely to happen...are you sure your wheel cylinder isn't stuck? Going back to your original post, it looks like it might be expanded outward some which might be causing your shoes to stick to your drums...maybe try removing it and seeing if anything changes? (Be prepared to bleed it afterwards)

 

Is there anyway to safely press the wheel cylinder back in like you do a caliper? I was thinking a c-clamp with a bolt that fits over the contact service and then tighten it in. Idk what would cause the wheel cylinders to stick though. They're new and never gave me problems.

 

Dumb question. . Is it safe/advised to pull the drum off and pull the brake lever to see if it is stuck or not? Also can I push the brakes to test the same thing (springs and shoes on of course)?

I'm hellbent to fix this. Had ZERO problems out of this side until I took it apart to redo the hardware.

 

Your return springs don't have a whole heck of a lot of "spring" to them, looks almost like they could just fall off. Pop for a new hardware kit just for yucks, if that doesn't fix it you can always burn it to the ground.

 

The wheel cylinder pistons are spring-loaded and therefore, can't be permanently compressed like those that rely solely on hydraulic pressure. The rear wheel cylinder pistons just spring back to their extended position when not under compression by the springs and shoes. They are compressed by the shoes via the primary and secondary return springs. I can't tell from your pictures (because it's difficult to tell what side I'm looking at) but the shoes should be installed so that the one with less friction material is located on the leading (towards the front) side. Here are some detail shots of my drums pre-work...

First, stay calm, LOL.



Driver's side drum, << Leading edge is that way.



Top detail...



Bottom detail...



Make sure your shoes are centered on the backing plate in both X and Y axis, make sure the adjustment pin is fully retracted, make sure the springs are installed in the correct locations and the shoes are in the correct orientation (larger pads to rear of drum). If the parking brake lever (behind the trailing shoe) rests behind the shoe then the issue isn't your parking brake.

 

Wow! That first picture is amazing! Had to save it, lol. Also, congrats on being a drum expert...I hate them so much, lol...and wow those springs are pretty flat there bud. Mine are the same way!

I decided to throw out all that junk for discs for this precise reason. No stupid guesswork involved!

 

[QUOTE=F1Addict;2610145]

First, stay calm, LOL.


[QUOTE]

The pic has to be in HDR. Very nice.

 

You are both correct. My leaf springs are embarrassingly saggy (new set on order) and that is an HDR. Thank you both for the compliments.

I thought about doing the disc conversion but after completely overhauling my brake system (last week) I'm convinced a properly maintained and adjusted disc/drum system works as well as the conversion. I'm quite certain that at least some of the brake fluid I drained had been installed by some dude in an Ohio car factory... 25 years ago. It looked like muddy water with a little pudding and rust mixed in for fun. I replaced my front brake hoses and caliper seals (after scrubbing everything), I cleaned my master cylinder including the primary and secondary piston and seals, I flushed all hard brake lines, rebuilt both rear wheel cylinders, installed ceramic pads and semi-metallic shoes, refilled and bled the system. I can't believe how well it all works now, it's like night and day.

Even if it functions the same, the rear disc conversion still offers the advantage of simplicity for those who despise drum brakes. I suspect there are a few here who fall into that category.