I might still do this. Did you replace your prop valve and master cylinder? How much were the parts - cost of backing plates?

New Update: Pretty bad vibes at 55mph. Still no grabbing and right drum is def the culprit. Getting hot and a burning brake smell.

 

"I don't think the e-brake cable is seized."

I do.

 

I have the prop valve internals, but that's it. Haven't put them in yet. The master cylinders are the same, I believe. I think all in it was 300 something with all new rotors, pads, e-brake kit, gear oil, dremel stones and other supplies, and the kit from Big David is going for $170 now.

 

more info on big david kit?

edit- nvm found it, thats a decent deal for them already pulled for u. If you are willing to pull them u can get everything for way cheaper!

 

What's the best way to check and if so fix?

 

You can loosen the nut/jamnut on the equalizer but it's probably solid. So just remove the cable from the parking brake lever.

 

I'm thinking E-brake, or something with that lever or the brace that goes across. Or a faulty new Cylinder? I don't think having the primary and secondary shoes reversed would do that. If it's hot, it's dragging some.

Does the E-Brake feel supper tight? (at the lever) Someone that didn't understand pedal free play is taken up with the star wheel(s), might have over tightened it. I think the cable adjuster is only for cable stretch/wear.

I might carefully measure the gap between the left shoes at the top of the left and compare that with the right. I might switch drums, left and right.

I'm stumped as well. I hope to hear you report back the E Brake was too tight.

 

Just for reference
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

This.

 

Would this be located under the Jeep below the parking brake lever? (Dumb question, I know...)

Is there a special way to disconnect this?

Wheel cylinders were working great right after I installed them. Lever is not super tight.

Thanks guys!

 

See here. Should be on your passenger side.



The jamnut he is referring to is right to the left of the equalizer in this pic. It's a pain to move, you'll swear less if you happen to have a 13mm ratcheting wrench handy (and PB blaster depending on rust).

 

So do I loosen/remove the jamnut and the cables detatch? Also I take it each cable can individually seize, meaning the passenger can be shot, drivers fine, and main to the lever fine? The lever lifts and drops just fine. Never sticks or anything.

 

Question.

The parking brake bar. The end with the wider 'slot' is for the parking brake lever to fit into against the brake shoe, correct? That is how I have it on both side as it fit perfectly. I have the spring in the right location, bar facing the right way. Otherwise the lever would not have stayed in the shoe.

 

All I can say for sure is the spring on the strut/link, goes on the forward end.

 

Yeah and that's how I have it. On the other end the slot is wider. It seems to fit over both the shoe and the lever because when the lever is fixed in place it sits flush with the shoe.