KD3NE

Ok so we have a bad ignition switch and had to jumper some wires ( hotwire ) to get it running.

Interim Fix ---- Install toggle switch in place of jumper.

Worked for a while but now we need to replace the 7 pin wiring harness connector to the switch.


ALSO - still need a new switch, got one from local parts supplier and mechanic said it would not fit. The mechanic ordered one and he got the same one we got.

Going to Jeep dealer with VIN in hopes that they can help as they indicated they should be able to using the VIN.


Why am I having so much trouble finding that 7 pin wiring harness connector that goes to the ignition switch????

I will be going to the Junk Yard to see if I can pull one ..... but it will be old in and of itself.

One option is to remove the connector and install 7 separate single conductor connectors to the harness. Not a job I am looking forward to.



Hell I would be happy to install all separate switch in place of the ignition switch and use the key just to lock the steering.

ANY IDEAS ????

cruiser54

There's a difference in switches if you have tilt wheel or not....

KD3NE

We have Tilt Wheel ...... do you know a part number reference?

THANKS

freegdr

Switch by steering wheel or bolted to column by pedals ?

KD3NE

Switch by the wheel .... where the key goes.

Initial Problem ---- cranks, starts, dies when let key go. If after cranking you bring key back to release stater but keep pressure on it, it runs. Installed switch to 'hot wire' and it runs.

New Problem - Now when key is released Accessory Power is lost .... however if you rotate key towards cranking position .... Accessory Power comes back on and remains on.

Obviously there is mechanical wear, either in the switch itself or the key tumbler mechanism.

cruiser54

This might help:

KD3NE

Just to keep it in perspective ....

I am talking about the switch mounted to the key mechanism.

Maybe some pictures will help ....

KD3NE

In any case the problem the shops were having was mating the actual switch to the key cylinder in our XJ. The new ones ordered would not match up.

POSSIBLE SOLUTION IN HAND ......

Went to Junk Yard and found a 1995 XJ with Tilt Wheel .... same year as one with problem.

For $10 I purchased the entire switch/key assembly with TWO KEYS !!!!!

The yard XJ was there for collision damage .... I hope this part works.

It's worth the shot.

DOWNSIDE - Two keys will be needed .... one for door locks .... one for ignition. Small price to pay, if all goes well.

KD3NE

Interesting Observations ---- XJ vs ZJ Ignition Lock Switch Connectors

At the junk yard I went around to harvest the 7 pin wiring harness connector to replace the burned one in our XJ.

XJ's and Zj's use the same connectors ( probably the same ignition lock/switch as well ) but with different color coded wires.

XJ's and ZJ's both use the same wire sizes on comparable pins.

BURNED WIRES were only found in XJ's. We looked at eight vehicles, 4 XJ's, and 4 ZJ's.

On every XJ there was indications of insulation burning on pins numbered 6 and 7.

Pin 6 - Ignition Switch Output (ACC/RUN)
Pin 7 - Fused B(+)

My suspicion is for this is owners of XJ's may be installing too many accessories improperly. Though they are not exceeding the current limit of the circuit fuse, they are running close enough for the wires to begin to burn insulation. All burning indications are seen at the connector where a mechanical connection occurs. This would be a natural occurrence as the mechanical connection has some resistance and where there is resistance there is heat buildup.

cruiser54

Actually it has nothing to do with accessories.

The problem is an under designed wiring system.

GM vehicles using the same switch have exactly the same problem.

Too many amps on a sketchy switch in the first place.

KD3NE

I would agree with this IF the switch is burned internally.

However the same circuitry pretty much exists in the ZJ and the XJ ..... yet the burning on harness insulation is indicated only on XJ's that we looked at.

You can have a 15 amp fused circuit, never blow a fuse yet burn insulation on wiring over time.

We looked at 8 vehicles, all of them 1993 to 1995 vintage. The discolored insulation was seen in the XJ's.


In our specific failure, it is my option at this point that the fault is a failing mechanical issue in the rotating lock mechanism/switch interface.

This type of failure can occur when owners have 5 pounds of junk on their keychains.

I am more inclined to say that if anything Chrysler is using poor connectors on the wiring harness. The wire gauges used should be capable of the currents in the circuit but the connectors have too much insertion loss, causing resistance, causing heat. This is why you find burned insulation primary at the connector junction. Heat builds up there.

KD3NE

Once I get the new part installed and verify operation I intend on dismantling the old one and doing a failure analysis on it.

I should be able to post up pics of what I find.