Simple answer, buy a honda and build a monster trail rig

Cool, congrats.

Regearing will solve this fellows problems though...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jamie57

Oil rings over the wrist pins is JUST STUPID and anyone who trys that deserves to grenade their engine. Who's selling that snake oil and who's buying it?
It's the stroke o

Actually it's very common for a stroker kit to have the wrist pin coming up into the oil rings. When you increase the stroke by crank throw OR rod length the piston would be pushed up into the valves/head at TDC. So you have to move the wrist pin higher up the piston towards the rings which drops the piston top lower for when it's at TDC.

I think calling something "JUST STUPID" when you obviously don't really have an idea about building a motor yourself, is "JUST STUPID" itself.

Edit: I don't know why it's splitting your quote and when I edit it, it wont fix it when I click save.

I was refering to the underdrive pullys, I thought they were a waste of money for my 5.0. Also dich the E7's they don't move enough volume imo, mine are ported and my hp and tq start to fall around 4,500 rmp's. My 93 H.O. was spec'd at 200 hp and 275 tq and after a tune I got 225 hp and 283 tq at 4,500 rpm. I need a rebuild really bad, What are you using for a tuner?

Sorry to jack the thread, but I was too lazy to pm

The speed shop uses winpep software and a dynojet.
edited

Anybody run Edge Products Trail Jammer kit?

ok....how much are we talkin to regear it, i have to do something i took it out on the highway and it took me about 5 min to hit 65

if you want more horsepower and fuel economy go with the cummins 4bt. It is bullet proof and it is a diesel . gotta love them diesels. my dads 6bt that is in our ram is putting out roughly 450-600, and all we have done is injectors, studed head, and minor turbo adjustments.

Just figure about a grand..............

MO

i dont want to go crazy i just want it to be road driveable...it is my DD. the 4bt ive great things about but i dont have the time/money to do that ive already spent about $2500 on it and im only 16 haha im runnin out of money

Your cheapest way out of this situation would be to put your stock rims and tires on until you can afford to do gears. Gotta admit though..........it doesn't look too cool that way.

No offense intended here..............I used to be 16 and it's all part of the live and learn deal.............where you're at now is all part of the lifting/bigger tires thing. A little research (very little) and you could've seen this coming. Just be glad you don't have a 2.5 or 2.8 four cylinder.

This thread got side tracked with all the arguing about strokers. Do the gears. Your motor will have plenty of umph once you put in a 4.10 or 4.56 gearset. Even though it's not cheap, it'll still be less expensive than trying to add enough horsepower to make up the difference IMO.




Those look bigger than 32's. Maybe it's because you've still got your flares on.

TURBO!!!!!

they are really 275/75 r16's but basically 32 it stand about mid thigh high and im 5'11''

well.....last question, anyone want to get rid of some gears/axels? i want like 3.76-4.11 only! maybe 4.56 but id rather not, and DEFF. NOT lower

Just playing around and checking our AARA. It's a comglomerate of junk yards in Phoenix and you check them all via this one webpage to see if they have a part.

http://search2304.used-auto-parts.biz/inventory/retail.htm

The 4.10's and 3.73's are all but impossible to find.

Complete rear ends with 3.55's can be had all day long for $200-$300.

Like I said, just messing around. You might want to check to see if you have something similar in Penn.

Oh yeah, check Craigslist too. I see axles on there all the time.

Darned shame you aren't out here. This looks like a pretty good deal. Dana 30 and 35. Front ARB locker w/compressor switches etc, rear with a lock-right, both axles with 4.11 gears, and heavy duty steering all for $900. The Dana 30 ARB locker retails for $800 by itself.

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/pts/1497724223.html