I think somewhere here it mentions a crucial fuse you might want to triple check. I might not have brought it up, but it's a cool link, (not so easy to find), that you might like weather it helps here or not. (see 96 no start)

http://www.cherokeetech.com/VBull/sh...agnosis-Videos

 

Thank you DF. Those videos are awesome. Actually it's the 3rd time I've watched them. I found them when this first happened and looking through other posts, then you I think posted them earlier as well. Can't go wrong watching them again. Lot of good stuff there to try and pick up on.

 

Well, some progress was made I guess. I ohm'd out the circuit from the output of the ASD to the corresponding pin of the ign. coil connection and I had 140 ohms. Tore that line apart, plus some others since I was right there, redid all of it and am now down to .5 ohms on that circuit. After that was done I put everything back together and still nothing.... so...bck to square one, however I have now TOTALLY eliminated anything in the ignition side of the ASD. EVERYTHING is brand new lol, new wires, pins, connectors, coil, distributor pickup, plugs, and wires.

Next I'll start on the fuel side AGAIN going from the fuel pump and working my way back.

 

Any luck?

 

naw.. not yet. I was going to head out to work on it when I got home from work and then the fog rolled so thick you can't hardly see. Wouldn't be bad if it was in a garage, but when I had it towed the best the driver could do was drop it on the street lol.

 

Fog? You are kidding right? I'm kidding though. I'm on slanted gravel outside unless I want to go a full 50 feet to level.

Now I'm diggen, this is bothering me. I gotta ask, if you saw 12 volts to the pump with a good ground, why didn't it run? Maybe I got something wrong there.

Keep in mind that any resistance measurements that have any power in the picture are gibberish.

I'm going to look for your fuel pump relay. It is going to need one source of power to it's 30 terminal, and another to it's 86. With 85 grounded by the PCM, we would hope power now is going from it's 'feet" (30), out it's head, (87), to the pump. (with the FP relay out, you should hear the pump run if you put power to the 87 socket. (I say that without ever having seen a relay in a 96)

SPDT (SINGLE POLE, DOUBLE THROUGH RELAY INFO). POWER BETWEEN THE "HANDS" ACTIVATES IT'S SOLENOID. ACTIVATED, THE POWER THAT WAS COMING FROM OUT THE MIDDLE (87a,), (from 30) GOES TO THE HEAD, (87). Now breathe and look at that again. It's really pretty simple. At rest power goes from the foot, (30), to the belly, (87a). When power, (allot less) goes from one "hand" to the other, then the connection going the "belly" is stopped and diverted out the head, 87. The beauty, (and the function) of the thing is that the "hands" only need mill amps, and the vertical does real amps.

Generally power or ground for 85 and 86 is going to be the control for the 30 amps or so the vertical might handle. It seems they do ground that 85 with the ecu/pcm as a habit. (although 86 can easily be energized buy something like the ignition switch). Fuse.

 

Yup, I have power where it needs to be, follow the ground to the corresponding pin on the PCM and I show continuity.

Now, if I jump the FP relay, I get nothing. Test the connector by the rear axle and I show a initial 12v that drops to 6.7v.

I'm going to pull the whole module back out today and test it for continuity.

 

ok I think I found it! When I initially pulled the fuel module I gave the wiring a quick once over and it all looked good, replaced the pump and put the module back in. I just pulled the module again and the 2 of the wires actually came out of the black plugs on the module. Looking at the ends of the wires they are heavily corroded where they went inside the black plugs on the "cap" of the module. Now to find a module for a 1996 ...anyone have any ideas on where to look outside of the Crown brand?

 

Check with one of the vendors here

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f10/ne...s-march-79540/

 

I'll try Serious. I just put the part number into their search and it didn't show anything so Ill try emailing them tomorrow

 

yeah i wasn't sure, noticed after i posted that it was old. What is the difference between a 96 and the earlier ones? If it was just the electrical connector that could be changed easily enough.....

1996 is a stand alone year...why? got to be a way to adapt something else.
i see it is the first year of the returnless system, could you use an older sending unit (with correct pump) and plug return line?

 

👍🙌

 

That's what I've been trying to figure out. I work the next 9 days straight at 12 hours a day so that kills my ability to hit up a junkyard. I'm going to see if I can retro fit a earlier module to fit a 96 pump and regulator. If it works, I'll post a write-up/how-to for any other 1996 owners that run into the same issue. I've found a couple brand new units, but they run $400-$500 and that's just unacceptable for $100 worth of parts/tubing lol.

 

Just to follow up sui we don't have a dead end thread.


My issues ended up being in the fuel circuit. I found 3 different areas that were either causing resistance or were shorting out all together. The main culprit was where the fuel harness passes they the body by the rear axle, under the rear seat.

The second thing I had was on the ign. circuit, I was showing 140 ohms on connector C107 (by the battery) and it was very dirty/corroded. I replaced the pins on the connector and made a new harness for the ign circuit. I could have just cleaned it, but went for broke.

These two issues were causing my ASD to trip not allowing spark or fuel.