Hello Cherokee Forum, I need to seek you guidance in solving problems with my 1997 Jeep Cherokee Country. Let me start out by giving some deets, She currently has 195k 3 inch lift 31s. Last september i had the Transmission Flushed and a External Cooler Mounted.
Okay now the meat and potatoes.
Few weekends ago i was up on some gravel dirt roads, nothing too major. Maybe some mud here and their but wasn't putting the jeep under too much stress.
The check engine light came on near the top of the mountain. Engine temp was normal at 210. So i make the decision to turn around and head for the garage. Once i hit flat ground, i stopped to check fluids and they were all normal. When i started it back up and went to drive. It acted like the emergency brake was on and took like 1500 rpm to get moving forward. And once i was on the highway is was 200 rpm more then usual to go 60. Then once i stopped at the traffic light, it did the same thing, take a unusual high rpm to get moving and hard time getting into second. I got home and checked the transmission fluid. And it was fine. I unplugged the battery and let it sit overnight and came out the next morning, took it for a drive. no light no problems. Over the past couple weeks, it has been doing this off and on.Sometimes taking a few days to turn on and act weird or after the first mile. I ran a code scanner and got P0700. Luckily i have a second rig and can commute to school in that but i would like to figure out what is wrong with it. If anyone has any suggestions for me, i am open ears, Thanks. Parker

 

The root cause for your transmission problems may be having it flushed. Generally a 195,000 mile AW4 doesn't like being flushed.


Additionally, the folks that flushed it may have used a universal type ATF, which only serves to aggravate the problem.


I suggest you drain and refill your transmission using Dexron III/Mercon ATF.


This process is somewhat slow because you will only get from 2 to 3 quarts of ATF from your trans oil pan at each drain. The process should be repeated several times to insure the old [previous] ATF has been removed/diluted enough to get you going with Dexron III/Mercon ATF.


If you are not familiar with the drain/refill process, do this:


You'll need a plastic bucket capable of holding 5 quarts, a funnel for draining the fluid, and a funnel with a skinny neck for refilling the ATF through the trans dipstick tube, wrench for the drain plug, a grease pencil or felt marker, an empty milk jug and about four quarts of Dexron III/Mercon ATF..


Place the bucket under the oil pan drain plug and position the drain funnel below the drain plug. Remove the drain plug, and gasket, then let the ATF drain.








When finished draining, replace the drain plug and gasket.


Mark the side of the bucket at the level of the drained ATF. Pour the removed ATF into a milk jug for disposal.


Clean the bucket using clean paper towels or rags.


Pour new Dexron III/Mercon ATF in the bucket up to the mark you placed on its side.


Pour this in the trans through the trans dipstick tube using the skinny funnel.


Drive the Jeep for about 15 miles to get the trans fluid up to temp. With the Jeep on level ground, idling in Park, remove the trans dipstick and check the fluid level. It should be at, or near, the top of the "OK" range, but not beyond the "MAX" line. If you need to add fluid, only add a few ounces at a time then recheck.


Repeat the drain and refill process around three times.


If this does not help your problem, damage was done to your trans internals - maybe.




.

 

CCKEN:


That was a nice write-up on that, even someone like myself could follow those directions!


This should be added to the AW4 section if there is one on changing the trans fluid as the question comes often.

 

I'll repeat a similar problem a friend of mine had with his XJ. After spending a lot of money on the transmission and NOT fixing the problem, the actual problem turned out to be a sensor on the throttle body. He replaced that and the trans started shifting perfectly. Perhaps it was the throttle position sensor?

Anyway, he didn't get any codes for a bad sensor. The only indicator was the trans often stayed in low gear.

 

Could very well be the TPS.


The OP got a P0700 code which indicates a fault has been set in the TCM (The TCM has it's own self diagnostic program). Usually the PCM will set the TCM fault code in addition to the P0700 code but not always.


If the TPS signal voltages aren't getting to the TCM, it won't know WTF to do.


If the OP has a quality digital Volt/Ohmmeter there are tests he/she can do to see if there is faulty TCM input.

 

I just read your "Tranny Fluid Fire" post.


Off hand I'd say you cooked that transmission.

 

If i cooked my tranny, i don't think that it would run fine around town for a couple days but then decide to act up on a gravel road or after a decent sized pass. Another thing i might add is that once it starting acting like this, if i shift from going from 1st/2nd then to 3rd then to drive (manually) it acts complete normal. only if i start from drive is when it won't want to move.

 

shift solenoid?

 

Have you figured this one out? I think I have a similar problem.