Yep, I plan on calling him tomorrow. If he tries to give me the run around I'm gonna take it out and bring it to his shop and be like what's up?!

I'm honestly worried I'm not gonna get this thing back together. The bolts are so rusted and nasty, a lot of them just sheared. I think I'll just replace all the bolts since it's so cheap, and it'll probably save me a headache in the future. Sound like a good idea?

 

Yeah, sounds like replacement bolts are a good plan. Did you run into a mix of SAE and metric? Seems like I never know which wrench I'm gonna need when working on my XJ!

 

DUDE I WAS SO PISSED OFF!!!!!!!!! My dad only has all of his old tools from when he worked on his cars (although he has only has knowledge of those cars; the Cherokee is new so we both are new to working on it) and they are all SAE. Of course, on the interior I noticed it's all SAE, and suspension. But bumpers and (almost) everything to do with the engine was metric so we had to go buy new tools and sockets. Also, on the battery, everything holding it down and the + side were using metric, but the - side used SAE... seriously Chrysler?

 

Sae will work on Metric..think out side the box

 

American cars have used metric fasteners for about 30 years. They had to go metric in order to sell to the international market. It used to be confusing because the body and suspension would be metric, but the engine would be SAE. Each country seem to use different common sizes and thread pitch. Japanese use a lot of 10, 12,14,17,19,and 21mm. Americans use a lot of 8,10,13,15,16,18,19, and 21mm.

 

Time to buy some metric tools .

Anyway, IMHO at your mileage since you have gone this far, change out the radiator. Had put a stock replacement ( a little over $100) on my XJ at 128k and no more cooling problems. You will need a special tool (inexpensive) for the so called "quick connect" fittings on the trans cooler lines.

Do a close inspection on that harmonic balancer while you have everything torn apart. Also check the alternator pulley...it should turn freely with no hint of binding or rough feel at any spot. If you have no idea of how old the belt is ...might be a good time to replace it.

 

Hell yours looked better than mine, It will make you a car guy working on that nice jeep.
Get it to car wash and spray it down with grease cleaner.
All that oil around started is you oil sensor or oil filter assembly and valve cover that will fix the leaks there. Do your self a favor on the valve cover gskt, The cork one's are cheap but a ***** to put on , They have the ones that have the holes and sealant on the gskt and make it easy to replace.

 

Hi what was your initial problem?

 

Isn't that only certain sizes though? I want to ensure they have a tight fit so I don't round anything out.

Agree about the radiator but I really am on such a tight budget... I'm gonna give the thing a real good lookover, maybe take it to my mech and see what he says. I don't mind taking the thing apart again way later in time when I have money.

Harmonic balancer seems fine. Anything specific to look for? Agree about the belt, and I will take a look at the alt pulley.

Yep did the degreaser already, one of the first things I did. Really helped with the leaks -- the VC gasket leak was SO bad that oil was dripping like crazy; now I barely drip at all... So that's good I didn't do a cork gasket I got the nice silicon? fel-pro gasket and did that. You know, the blue one. When I change the oil next week I'll be looking at the send, and filter assembly. Thanks for that tip!

I pick up my water pump tomorrow -- I went with a GMB new pump for 37 bucks

 

Alright, I did a little more inspecting. Alt pulley feels OK, it's not easy to spin per se, but it does so freely. All pulleys were tight and felt good. Water pump even felt ok but didn't spin so freely - it caught a little. Good thing I'm replacing it.

The only pulley with an issue was the steering pump pulley... it was missing a chunk! Eek!

I want to replace it -- how do I get the sucker off? It seems I need a special tool and I guess that means I'll probably need that tool for the pump too...

Pics:

My helper:

 

Yes, you will need a special puller to remove the p/s pump pulley...usually can be rented at the auto parts store.

 

I can tell you that removing the whole front clip was completely unnecessary to get to the radiator! It's hard to tell from the pic but the fins and everything look OK from the inside of the engine bay. Remember, on the front is the A/C condenser, so you won't be looking straight at the radiator from head-on. But anywho, it's what's inside the radiator that counts. If your coolant is nice and green you should be OK. You'll know for sure once you get that new water pump in. Also, you might want to check your thermostat, if that hasn't been mentioned yet. Get a Napa 195* stat, or if you have a few extra bucks, get a Mopar stat.

 

my timing cover had 4 dif size bolts on it. not sure if its factory installed like that but I said wtf Chrysler too

keep at it. jeeps aren't bad at all to work on. parts are cheap and most everything is accessible without much hassle.

mine has a stock replacement radiator, water pump etc on it with a 180 Tstat. it runs 185-190 all the time. it might get between 210 and the mark to it's left sitting in traffic, but the needle spends 90% of it's time just to the left of the white mark before 210.

 

DON'T TELL ME THAT hahaha I spent a day unfreezing / breaking all of those bolts >:[

Although, it really is easier to work in there with all that crap out of the way. New bumpers on the way with offroad lights, so it might be easier to do all that with it off.

Coolant looked great, I didn't "inspect" it, but it was a bright green, no weird colors in it. I will check the TStat as well.

On a side note -- my parents surprised me with a new HU and a sub wiring kit... as a month early Bday present (since I need time to install this stuff before I go back to school). So the seats are coming out and I'm gonna wire that in when I'm done with the pump. Stoked!

I did notice that the leather-like piece that sits underneath the engine and protects it from splashes / rocks /etc. is really torn up (looks like it was hanging low and the pitman arm tore it all up). Anyone know what the name is that so I can see how much it is for a new one / do I even need one?

 

I have never seen a single XJ on here that has kept the splash guard. Mine was tore up as well and I just ripped it all out. I like the idea of it, but it's in the way and comes apart too easily. You're probably best off to remove it. And hey, at least you got some experience with removing the front clip! I'm having a hard time with why your mechanic would recommend a new radiator, it *sounds* okay to me. I'd find another mechanic, but then again I don't trust anyone other than myself or a select few friends to work on any of my vehicles.