My375hp302

Well, it didn't LOOK that deep, but it was and it locked the engine before I could get to the key. Got pulled out and pulled the plugs, shot all the water out, 3 out of 6 cylinder had water in them. Put the plugs back and it fired up but with a noticable tic that it didn't have before. Doesn't sound like a rod, more like I bent a pushrod or collapsed a lifter. It drove just fine on the way home. When I got back I pulled the plugs again and did a compression check. I got 135, 140, 142, 138, 149, 132 so I think the engine is ok minus whatever is wrong with the valvetrain. So then I flushed the engine twice to get all of the water/mud out of the oil and everything was just grand until I put the oil back in and started it up. Now it's idleing at like 2000 RPM's and won't go down. I checked for vacuum leaks and didn't find any. I pulled the IAC valve and cleaned it but that didn't help either. I don't think the problem is related but who knows. So...

Anyone bent/broke anything in the valvetrain after a hydrolock?

Any guesses on the high idle?

Thanks

93XJLI

change the TPS and IAC

My375hp302

I'll check the TPS tonight, but I don't think it will be the culprit. If it were I might have a slightly high or erratic idle but I don't think it would be capable of causing the idle to go to 2000+ rpm. Air is getting in.

Anyone on the valvetrain damage?

My375hp302

While I'm thinking about it is there anyone in the Yuba-Sutter area (California) that would be willing to let me swap in their IAC to see if that's it before I drop the 75.00?

tannerp89

you could have bent a pushrod or collapsed a lifter during the hydrolock. only way to tell is pull the valve cover, remove the rocker arms and inspect all the rods/lifters. use a magnet on a stick to pull the lifters and check the push rods by rolling em on a flat surface, but make sure you put the rods/lifters back in the same order you removed them. worst case that i can think of is you sucked some dirt in when it hydrolocked, which blocked one of the oil galley's, which is starving part of the valvetrain for oil, causing a more noticeable valvetrain tick. one way to check that is when you pull the valve cover, prime the oil pump to be sure oil is flowing through all the pushrods.

My375hp302

New development .... went to start it this morning ..... nothing. It will turn over but it won't start at all. Tried starting fluid and it sputtered and then shot fire out of the air box. Damn near caught the thing on fire. Any ideas? Now I thinking maybe it's not the IAC.

My375hp302

bump

claygrassmann

after i hydro locked i had to replace tps iac and cps for it to run good again, then injectors went

My375hp302

Update: well, I think it's the TPS for the no start problem. The jeep will not start with the TPS connected, but with it disconnected it starts fine. I can then reconnect the TPS and it runs normal but it will not restart with it connected. I haven't had a chance to get voltage readings at the TPS yet, I'll do that tomorrow but for now it seems to be the TPS and the high idle thing went away. Weird... Guess that will teach me to take the Jeep swiming.

troy fritz

I hydrolocked my 96 and the tps made it idle at 3to3500rpms.I replaced it and it ran good again til the iac went then the injectors then the cps and so on. I had to replace every sensor and injector within like a week. Also had to replace the cat,pipes and muffler.That was an expensive weekend.

My375hp302

HOLY CRAP! I can see the sensors not liking water but what happened to your cat, pipes, and muffler?

My375hp302

Here are some pics. I know it doesn't look deep where I came to rest, but with the combination of my speed, and the depth of the water just behind me, the water went over the hood and roof...

My375hp302

So I got the voltage readings from my TPS today. 4.1V closed, 4.8V at WOT. I think it's a tad out of spec. Guess I'll be replacing that ASAP and then I need to explore under the valve cover to see what I bent/broke.

offroadnut36

Closed it's supposed to read .5-.7V and your WOT looks within spec.

My375hp302

Thanks. I was being sarcastic when I said it was a tad out of spec because it was so far off. I guess it doesn't come across the same in type!

On the same note tho I have heard it's supposed to be .5-.7, .8, and my haynes manual says 200 milivolts. I wonder which one is actually correct and if it even matters all that much.