Lately, my AW4 tranny undergoes a loud clunk when I put it into drive.
So, I did a 2 drain and fills today.
(Still clunks when I put in into gear. Anyone know what the problem is? Tranny on the way out?)

I have seen many threads with people claiming they've drained 3 or 4 quarts from the pan.
My pan drains exactly 2 quarts.

The fluid came out black on the first drain.

I drove around and did another drain/fill.
The fluid was still totally black on the 2nd drain.

How long until it starts looking red?

The capacity of the entire system is 8.5 quarts.
A pan drain is 2 quarts.
So, you're replacing 24% of the capacity with fresh fluid.

Here are some percentages:
1 drain/fill = 76% dirty fluid left.
2 drain/fill = 58% dirty fluid left.
3 drain/fill = 43% dirty fluid left.
4 drain/fill = 33% dirty fluid left.
5 drain/fill = 25% dirty fluid left.
6 drain/fill = 19% dirty fluid left.
7 drain/fill = 14% dirty fluid left.
8 drain/fill = 11% dirty fluid left.
9 drain/fill = 8% dirty fluid left.

I am going to do at least 4 and then wait and see.
I am curious if it will still be black at 44% dirty.

 

Why ask? You'll probably still say we are wrong and that this is to complex and hard lol

 

Jesus man! Just do like 3 drain and fills. Go do it.. stop thinking... noo I said stop just go do it!

 

Yeah, I only got about 2.5 qts out of mine IIRC. I figured if I let it drain longer, I might have had more come out.

BTW, your loud clunk is probably u-joints.

 

pull back the boot on the transfercase output and grease the slip yoke and it will probably quiet your clunk down substantially.

 

I seriously doubt the clunk is from the trans, although the fluid certainly needs attention.

Your calculation is not taking into account the accumulated buildup that is probably being broken loose by the fresh fluid. Keep at it. Drain and fill. Repeat til color is at least decently pink.

 

Thanks about the slip yolk or u-joint.
Here is another thing that started recently.

When I roll to a complete stop, at the very end, it seems like the car "clunks" into the stop.
It's hard to describe. Almost like when it finally hits 0mph, it something slips.
Like the wheels are sliding into a notch or something.

 

Could also be the slip yoke. Grease it and check/grease the u-joints also.

Don't ask any more questions until you've done those things.

 

If it isn't the slip yoke needing grease, it's probably the rear drive shaft U-Joints gone bad. You need to remove the rear drive shaft to properly grease the TC slip yoke so you can change, or better yet, have the U-Joints replaced. Use Spicer U-Joints.

 

LOL, fair enough, but I have no idea what either of those things are,
or where they are located,
or if it's even possible to do for a beginner like me.

To check the slip yoke, you need to take it apart like this?
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/g...ite-up-357569/

Or, do you use a grease gun to inject grease? This write-up doesn't really help beyond that
http://www.ehow.com/how_6901727_do-g...lip-yoke_.html

How do you check the u-joint?
How do you grease a u-joint?
Or do you just replace the u-joint?

If I conclude this is too complex for my ability level, and take it to a mechanic,
I can tell him to replace the u-joint and grease the slip yoke at the same time?
They can both be done together? These are common maint. items, correct?

 

I am curious to how you came up with those percentages? How are you taking into account that after the first drain, each successive drain will also let out some fraction of "new" fluid?

Only about 2 qts come out of my trains when I do a drain as well. It took me 3 drain/fill before it was a strong red color. I did another one beyond that.

 

When taking this into account you'll need at least 37 drain and fills.

 

I think he needs to sell the jeep and by a Porsche lol

 

I would suggest doing what the first link describes.

You check the u-joint for lateral play. If it's good there should be no play in the u-joint. If there is, replace it. They're 8 bucks.

If you have greaseable u-joints it takes a grease gun. Your joints are most likely not serviceable.

Yes, they can both be done together...

I once heard a wise man say - "It's a drive shaft, not a rocket ship."

 

I would secure a 5 gallon pail of DEXIII/Merc upside down above the fill tube with hose going from pail to fill tube. Then I would start her up(Cherokee rear axle up on jacks so wheels can spin, Obviously in 2 wheel drive), open drain plug, let 5 gallons Rip, put her in Drive, then Neutral, then Reverse, back and forth until 5 gallons is almost gone. Put drain plug back in. Check Level on flat ground, Hot.