Kai Demarco

I have a steering u-joint with play in it so I figured I'm gonna get it all done. On all the areas I've worked on on my xj, the rust has always been doable. This is the one area that terrifies me.




I have done driveshaft U Joints but never these. I ordered Spicer u-joints as well as Spicer upper/lower ball joint kits. I'm grabbing a pickle fork and ball joint press with the jeep adapter from autozone. And luckily I am using my friend's lift. I will spray the area down a couple days beforehand. Is this like a two day job with this kind of rust, and is anything else likely to break when I start pulling it all apart? I really appreciate any tips!!

TrailerTrash

Those are the axle shafts. This will not be a fun job.

Start spraying everything. You will need to remove the caliper, rotor, axle nut, hub bearing unit, then the axle shaft. Then you get the universal joints out and replace them with new. If you have done driveshaft joints then this is mostly the same once you actually get the shaft out.

MKP

If it's never been a part before, the wheel bearing and the three bolts to the wheel bearing will likely be the most difficult. Personally, I would not bother with the axle nut, but people may have other ideas on that. Soak the three bolts and what you can get to the wheel bearing with a good penetrating oil. The rust holding it in can be a beast, and if you have access to a torch, so much the better. (Careful not to overheat the bearing.) Take care not to screw up the axle seal when you slide the axle in. Overall, it's not too bad.

The Ball Joints are pretty straightforward. There are plenty of good YouTube videos on the subject.

Dave51

Where in the Northeast are you?

This job is relatively quick and easy if you do 3 things:

To pop the wheel bearings out, use the "leave a bolt sticking out and turn the steering wheel" trick;

Use a Harbor Freight 20-ton hydraulic press to do the universals (right now $250; the 12-ton is $170 but this is one area where more is better. I literally exploded a 6-ton press doing this job). Or have the shop do this. I've Flintstoned this job and I've done it right. Tools are not an expense: they're an investment.

If (when) you bend the ears on the driveshafts getting the old universals out, bang 2 steel rectangular wood wedges placed in opposition to spread them back to proper spacing.

Also check to see if you've got a huge socket or similar to allow pressing out the caps.

That Jeep Guy XJMJ

Make sure you hit the end of the 3 hub bolts with penetrating oil, don't just spray the heads of them thinking it's good - the gets you nothing. After removing the brake rotor you should be able to see the very ends of the threads sticking through the unit bearing.

Also be sure your using a 12pt socket 13mm or 1/2. I've seen folks surprisingly mess this part up and make an even bigger project out of it.

cruiser54

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=crc+freeze...%3DULXahcy0CO0

Dave51

OK I got another one.

When you got that ball joint tool cranked to the point where you're wondering if that joint's ever gonna let go, just give the steering knuckle a good rap with the BFH and duck.

Oh and wear impact glasses.

Ok wait...

Put on impact glasses...

BlueBalls

This is going to be real fun lol. Been through this before and it is about as pleasant as a root canal.
Make sure to have MAP gas/torch handy. Pop into Vatozone and get all the necessary tools rented. Plus make certain you provide a lot of extra time.

Jmho

When i did mine a heated the stuff up nice and toasty.