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How to identify if built with Max Cooling Option

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Old May 9, 2016 | 09:05 PM
  #16  
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xkcd
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Old May 9, 2016 | 09:25 PM
  #17  
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Funny.
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Old May 16, 2016 | 08:12 AM
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I guess we're not going to get to the bottom line here as this thread has run aground.


My objective is simply to configure to the OEM max cooling equivalent as I'm planning to tow a small bass boat here in Alabama and don't want any issues with cooling. I'm sure there are better options but they probably are more than needed to meet my needs.
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Old May 16, 2016 | 08:52 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by steamin53
I guess we're not going to get to the bottom line here as this thread has run aground.


My objective is simply to configure to the OEM max cooling equivalent as I'm planning to tow a small bass boat here in Alabama and don't want any issues with cooling. I'm sure there are better options but they probably are more than needed to meet my needs.
Do you have a remote trans cooler to supplement the cooler in the radiator?

Come to think of it, THAT may be what HD cooling is................
Attached Thumbnails How to identify if built with Max Cooling Option-trans-cooler-location.jpg  
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Old May 16, 2016 | 12:14 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by steamin53
I guess we're not going to get to the bottom line here as this thread has run aground. My objective is simply to configure to the OEM max cooling equivalent as I'm planning to tow a small bass boat here in Alabama and don't want any issues with cooling. I'm sure there are better options but they probably are more than needed to meet my needs.
You could call your local dealership and pose the query as they should be able to give you a definitive answer.
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Old May 17, 2016 | 01:18 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by steamin53
as this thread has run aground.
Brow, we are all here and have your back. Seriously I have put a fan on something I wanted cooler. (never a manual trans, yet....).

With the stock cooling system up to snuff and functioning as intended you should be fine. E-fan comes on when it's really hot, (217*). You might test it by putting cardboard in front of the main fan. Regardless of what you might have read, YES, the fan shroud is necessary for optimum cooling. A T-stat is no place to save a buck, This Scott, paid like $20 for a Mopar 195*T-Stat.

You got me thinking...I think I weigh more than my boat

Last edited by DFlintstone; May 17, 2016 at 01:26 AM.
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Old May 17, 2016 | 11:53 AM
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No aux cooler as it is a man trans.

I agree on the t-stat, engine fan clutch, and other components needing to be first quality.
At this point I have to believe that since the max cooling option seems to only have a two core radiator that may be the only difference unless perhaps they were equipped with two electric fans instead of the single fan on my Jeep.
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Old May 17, 2016 | 07:12 PM
  #23  
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I have just recently flushed my cooling system, changed my T-stat, WP, and all my hoses and I agree with the general idea that when our jeeps are operating correctly we shouldn't have overheating issues. I'm running a 95' with manual trans also, before I did all of the above my gauge would start to creep at stop lights, now it warms up to operating temp and pegs, stoplight or highway.
Not saying they don't exist but in all the knowledge about jeeps we have on this post you would think one of us would have seen a factory double electric set up. Cruiser's post makes the most sense that maybe max cooling was part of the tow package...?
I wonder if adding an engine oil cooler would help? I plan on adding one to mine in the next few weeks, I'll let you know if I notice a difference.
Sorry for the book
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Old May 17, 2016 | 08:38 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by wyrick
I have just recently flushed my cooling system, changed my T-stat, WP, and all my hoses and I agree with the general idea that when our jeeps are operating correctly we shouldn't have overheating issues. I'm running a 95' with manual trans also, before I did all of the above my gauge would start to creep at stop lights, now it warms up to operating temp and pegs, stoplight or highway.
Not saying they don't exist but in all the knowledge about jeeps we have on this post you would think one of us would have seen a factory double electric set up. Cruiser's post makes the most sense that maybe max cooling was part of the tow package...?
I wonder if adding an engine oil cooler would help? I plan on adding one to mine in the next few weeks, I'll let you know if I notice a difference.
Sorry for the book
No apologies needed for the "book".

No need for an engine oil cooler. I live in Arizona. stock is fine.
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Old May 17, 2016 | 08:49 PM
  #25  
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Thanks Cruiser, and thanks for your mostly renix tips. I'm not running renix but I found several to be helpful regardless.
do you think I would benefit at all from the oil cooler? Like long trips on the highway? My logic is most newer rides run them (my girlfriends G6 is leaking as we speak), and my OP starts at almost 60, but like to drop to 15-20 at a stoplight during a long trip.
I guess moreso my oil cooler is for my oil, not my engine temp. I think a T-stat is only gonna open at it's given temp regardless of what the oil temp is.
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Old May 17, 2016 | 08:53 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by wyrick
Thanks Cruiser, and thanks for your mostly renix tips. I'm not running renix but I found several to be helpful regardless.
do you think I would benefit at all from the oil cooler? Like long trips on the highway? My logic is most newer rides run them (my girlfriends G6 is leaking as we speak), and my OP starts at almost 60, but like to drop to 15-20 at a stoplight during a long trip.
I guess moreso my oil cooler is for my oil, not my engine temp. I think a T-stat is only gonna open at it's given temp regardless of what the oil temp is.
Keep your cooling system in good shape and go for it.
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Old May 17, 2016 | 08:54 PM
  #27  
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I'd never consider an aux oil cooler for a bunch of reasons. I'd just flush it, make sure everything is working as designed and see how she does. No, only one E-Fan to help out if the mechanical can't do it. I live up a steep gravel road that climbs 1,500' in 3 miles. Hill + no airspeed = Efan comes on, in the summer.

If I DID have a cooling issue, I might look at what fan clutches are out there. That's one part of the system that could dump more heat, at the expense of mileage though. Again though, the stock clutch properly working should be pretty well engaged before it overheats. And again, the fan shroud is crucial if you are "crawlen', with no airspeed.

I do always carry 2 gallons and some tools for the occasional blown hose.
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Old May 17, 2016 | 09:05 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by wyrick
Thanks Cruiser, and thanks for your mostly renix tips. I'm not running renix but I found several to be helpful regardless.
do you think I would benefit at all from the oil cooler? Like long trips on the highway? My logic is most newer rides run them (my girlfriends G6 is leaking as we speak), and my OP starts at almost 60, but like to drop to 15-20 at a stoplight during a long trip.
I guess moreso my oil cooler is for my oil, not my engine temp. I think a T-stat is only gonna open at it's given temp regardless of what the oil temp is.
The only way to know for sure is to measure the oil temps while you're driving, though that's easier said than done. I wouldn't think the oil would get particularly hot, even at highway speeds. Now, if you're towing through the mountains or blasting down the highway at 90+ all day long in the summer, I could see the temps creeping up. I run an auxiliary oil-to-air cooler on my GTI in addition to the factory oil-to-coolant heat exchanger, but that's only because it spends lots of time at WOT and 5k+ RPM at the track. Lots of throttle and revs are what heats up the oil.
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Old May 17, 2016 | 11:13 PM
  #29  
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yeah, my 4.0 doesn't really care for 5k but I have a 5000 mile trip from Missouri to Wisconsin planned at the end of July, just thought it may help
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Old May 17, 2016 | 11:13 PM
  #30  
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lol I mean 500 mile
seems like 5000
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