TylerU

So after I got this "new" XJ, I picked up the trany dip today, and it looks real dark brown-ish.. I was suggested to flush it down..

As a newbie to Xj, and cars in general, how to flush it.
the more detailed the better.. like what kind of fluid I need to buy, and the procedures to do it..

thanks yall. somebody told me they'll charge me $100 for this in jiffylube, is that true?

belvedere

My personal preference is to just do multiple drains/fills, especially since the XJ has a drain plug for the ATF. Drain the ATF and fill with a name-brand Dex III or Dex/Merc. (NAPA ATF worked great in mine, but any name-brand should be fine.) Drive around for awhile (a day, a week, whatever), and then repeat. Keep changing it til the fluid is nice and red. You can do this many times for the cost of a "professional" fluid exchange, and you'll know it was done right, and not using one of the "universal" fluids.

TylerU

How manny quarts do I need?
No flushing is involved? I heard that flushing it yourself could cause problems, if not done properly. I wanna know what to watch out fire.

If it's just open the plug-drain-fill, aren't those people going to jiffylube, dummies and ignorants?

TylerU

Can I fill it, unplugged? So it will be actually "flushing"

dmill89

Filling it unplugged wouldn't be flushing, it would just run straight out the pan. It takes aprox. 4qts. (1 Gallon) of fluid on a drain and fill, this is about half the fluid in the system with the rest being in the torque converter and transmission cooler. Changing the fluid 3-4 times via drain and fill has the effect of flushing (with a few days in between, preferably at least 100 mi between drain and fills). You can get a gallon of DexronIII/Mercon for $10-15 so you'd be in it $30 - $60 doing drain and fills versus the $200 or so a decent shop would charge for a flush and filter change (there isn't really a need to change the filter on an AW4 since it is just a screen but most shops do this as part of a trans service). Pressure flushes usually aren't recommended on higher-mileage transmissions as they have a tendency knock loose "junk" which can clog fluid passages, a fluid exchange machine that does not use pressure (uses the transmissions own pump) is the proper way for a shop to do a transmission fluid change and is what a good shop should use.

Whatever you do don't go to JiffyScrewed (I mean JiffyLube), if they actually change the fluid (they have been known to charge for this service without actually doing it) they will likely use a "universal" fluid which doesn't meet the manufactures specs and those idiots are always screwing stuff up they are known to leave out oil plugs, not tighten filters, use wrong fluids, put fluids in the wrong place (i.e. oil in trans fluid, oil in coolant, etc.), hook up flush machines backward, etc. JiffyLube is one of the worst "shops" on the planet, don't take your vehicle there for anything.

cruiser54

3.5 quarts plus whatever it takes to get the level to spec. easy. Try it.

TylerU

Thanks everyone. That's very helpful.
So I never need to change the filter? Just to sure..

I'm going to get it "flushed" tomorrow. My fluid looks almost like engine oil now ... Lol

codykrr

just recently went through this too. lol

Yes a "flush" which the transmission is hooked to a machine that pushes the old fluid out and puts new in can be disastrous.(least according to lots of reports. and a few ASE certified friends of mine)

What I ended up doing was droping the transmission pan,changing the transmission filter(20 bucks and comes with the gasket) and draining and re-fill and will repeat untill I feel its clean enough to do what I am going to call a "fluid exchange"(which I will explaing in a bit).

dropping the pan isnt hard just time consuming kinda a pain to wiggle the pan out of the location with the crossmember on one end and the exhaust on the other sorta pinning it in there. also your transmission dipstick tube goes into the pan, the tube up top on the engine bay( the part you actually see with the dipstick in it). slides into the tube coming out of the tranny pan. there should be a rubber o-ring that seals this joint together. in my case there was black silicon(go figure!) this can be tough to get apart. and is a nessecity if you plan to pull the pan(which I highly recommend so you can change the filter)

Prepare to get messy, drain the fluid from the tranny first(mine actually had a drain plug! unlike small block chevys like I am used too) let it drain for a while and hour or so. then drop the pan and expect more. this crap will get everywhere if your not careful! once you have the pan off dont panic! lol there is a filter right(look at the new one you just bought to identify it for sure lol) there with I believe 4 8mm bolts. unscrew them throw the old filter out, put the new in. clean your pan VERY well, alone with the mating surface on the actual transmission. grab the new gasket and I like to use some wheel bearing grease(the red stuff) just a dab will do on the four corners of the pan to kinda hold the new gasket in place as you do not want ANY silicon near that! once you have the pan on you can refil the transmission, check for leaks. then get in the vehicle and with the ingition in the "on" position cycle through all the gears. park, reverse, nuetral..ect. then start the vehicle and do that again. then once the vehicle is warmed up to operating temp check fluid level and add if needed. do not overfill.

I know thats a long write up. but I wanted to make it simple for ya.

codykrr

as for the "fluid exchange meathod" you could do this too. again I highly recommend changing that filter so Id start with my previous post first!

This meathod is simple. you will need at least 2 to 3 gallons of ATF fluid(check what you need for yours) just to be safe.

You will need a large bucket, or old kitchen trashcan.(something to catch alot of fluid).

you need a length of hose(could use 3/8 fuel line) its cheap about 4 foot to be safe more if needed. you will then unhook your transmission oil cooler lines from the radiator(if yours doesnt have that then you cannot proceed with the meathod unless you add them) mine are on the drivers side of the radiator. you will need to figure out which line(there are two) in the sending line(it send fluid from the tranny to the radiation to be cooled) and the return line(returns the cooled fluid to transmission)

to do that unhook both lines put a catch pan underneath. start the vehicle and have someone see which one is spewing fluid. yeah its a little messy.

once you have the sending line found attach your length of hose you bought to it and put the return line back into the radiator. run your hose into the bucket or trash can and have a buddy there to start the vehicle and while in park or neutral(choke the wheels if in neutral) once the fluid is pumping out inthe the bucket have your friend add new fluid via a funnel through the dipstick at about the same rate its coming out.

the fluid should go from dirty, to a nice deep red color in about a minute or two. if not keep doing that untill you have nice clean fluid coming out. shut the vehicle off and attach your sending line back into the radiator and done.

also here is a link to a video explaining the meathod I just described. this is pretty general and for the most part will work for "most vehicles".


hope this helps.

dmill89

No real need to change the "filter" unless you are having issues. The "filter" on an AW4 is a coarse mesh screen designed to catch large particles, it doesn't really filter/clean the fluid. I run an external filter (basically a spin-on oil filter) inline with my AUX transmission cooler because of this. If you take it to a "real" shop (not a quick lube) they will probably change the filter which certainly won't do any harm, but if you are doing it yourself it is messy, can be a pain (especially if the rubber connector for the dipstick tube has hardened, which is common), and is most cases isn't necessary.

Again I would highly recommend against having any kind of a pressure flush, especially if the fluid is very dirty or the transmission is high mileage. A pressurized flush will knock loose any crud inside of the transmission which can then clog narrow passages such as those in the valve body. You are better off doing multiple drain and fills, going someplace that has a fluid exchange machine that doesn't use pressure, or pulling a cooler line and doing your own "fluid exchange" adding fluid as it is pumped out (this is basically how a fluid-exchange machine works, just in an automated manner).

And stay far-far away from Jiffy-Lube. I wouldn't trust any "quick-lube" to do a transmission fluid change, if you want to take it someplace to have the fluid changed your best bet would be a reputable local shop. The dealer isn't a good option either as Chrysler dealers no longer stock the correct fluid (DexronIII/Mercon) for the AW4 and they will instead use ATF+4 (Chrysler's current standard transmission fluid) which is much thinner and known to cause issues with reduced pressure and slipping.

TylerU

Thanks so much Cody and Dmill. That's exactly what I need.

I think I'll just unplug, drain and refill first.
Coz I was a big scared about the color it has now.. For a first timer, I'd do a flush at this good local shop, but they are closed on holidays.

Both the pan dropping and Fluid exchange method are a bit complicated for me to do over the weekend. But I'll start prep to try either one next week.

How's that sound.

belvedere

One more thing. When you refill it, start with 2 quarts and check, then add as needed. Mine didn't even take 3 full quarts after each drain.

cruiser54

Really? Good to know.

belvedere

Yeah, not sure what the deal is. Maybe mine is just an oddball.

cruiser54

Birds of a feather..........